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Oil Pressure Drop

  • Thread starter Thread starter ryonker
  • Start date Start date
It's not so much the little barrel that goes down into the block, it's the cylinder into which the pressure sensor sits. Unless it matches the dimensions of the original cavity perfectly, it will sense pressure differently. If there is just barely enough room for the sensor to slide in the cavity, it won't take much to push it off the contacts. If there is a millimeter of space around the sensor, it may never get off the contacts because all the oil is going around the edge, instead of pushing it away from the contacts.

Adding oil will not raise the pressure unless it's cold oil. Your pressure drops as the oil warms up because the oil gets thinner and can flow easier, and this also affects how it flows around the gap around the pressure sensor that turns off your light.

Above all, remember that is't not pressure that lubricates your engine, it's flow. Unfortunately, I have yet to see an engine with an oil flow meter. If you have trouble agreeing with this concept, imagine this: block off the oil gallery just beyond your pressure gauge port. You will see all kinds of pressure on the gauge, but not a drop will be going anywhere inside the engine. :eek:

.
 
The pressure sensor works by completing a ground path for the light through the metal plunger. When there is no oil flow the plunger is seated over the oil port thus making the ground path. The plunger should completely cover the oil feed port. When oil comes up through the port, the bottomed out plunger get pushed out of the way thus interrupting the ground path and turning out the light. The oil only flows around the plunger after it’s pushed out of the way - oil should not be able to flow around the plunger due to side clearance.

I still suspect pressure bleed off at the round piece that fits into the oil pressure port on the engine. My home built adapter had this problem until it was sealed off to capture all the oil flow.
 
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ryonker said:
I just added a little oil and started it up.....
Click to expand...

I have asked the same question in the past, but no one had an answer....how much oil does the (1150) cooler and lines approximately hold? I guess none have actually measured the capacity . I usually fill to the 'full' mark and then add about 1/4 quart more. My 'guestimate' put the volume (for this cooler) at around 1/2 quart. Next time I have the cooler off for whatever reason, I will actually fill it and measure the amount, so all of us will finally know for sure.:)

Tony.
 
I will take it all apart tonight and check if the little adaptor is flush to the top of the port.

If it's not exactly flush, what do I do?

So I just now started the bike again, and it runs/idles at about 2 psi and the sensor light is off.

I roll the throttle, it goes up to 6 psi, but as it decelerates, the light flickers back on a little then off again.

should I just run it like this? Is there any danger to the engine?
 
Mysuzyq said:
I have asked the same question in the past, but no one had an answer....how much oil does the (1150) cooler and lines approximately hold? I guess none have actually measured the capacity . I usually fill to the 'full' mark and then add about 1/4 quart more. My 'guestimate' put the volume (for this cooler) at around 1/2 quart. Next time I have the cooler off for whatever reason, I will actually fill it and measure the amount, so all of us will finally know for sure.:)

Tony.
Click to expand...
i read somewhere it holds about a quart. i have no idea what thread but i believe it was here in the GS resources when i was thinking about installing a cooler.
 
Since we are on the subject This is something I have wondered about. My bike came with an oil cooler an 82GS1100gk I'm not sure if it was stock or not. There are 2 lines coming from the oil filter case to the cooler. So should I just fill the oil to the top of the window while on the center stand or should I add more to allow for the cooler and the lines? Anybody feel like weighing in on this. Thanks in advance.
 
Mysuzyq said:
I have asked the same question in the past, but no one had an answer....how much oil does the (1150) cooler and lines approximately hold? I guess none have actually measured the capacity . I usually fill to the 'full' mark and then add about 1/4 quart more. My 'guestimate' put the volume (for this cooler) at around 1/2 quart. Next time I have the cooler off for whatever reason, I will actually fill it and measure the amount, so all of us will finally know for sure.:)

Tony.
Click to expand...

I have an aftermarket cooler on my 1100E that I guessed at 1/4 quart volume. It may actually be 1/2 quart but the difference shouldn't be too bad since the oil pickup is still bathed in oil. Note that drag bikes run only a couple of quarts to reduce fluid drag but still get enough oil (not recommended for daily driving..).

NESSISM: I've thought about adding a pressure guage to satisfy my neurosis. You have way more knowledge than I do :eek:. What do I need for an '82 1100E?
 
Ok; I took everything apart. Interestingly, the return line from the cooler did not drip oil; it seemed almost dry:-k. Oil did drip out of the other line.

I know when I was driving the cooler got pretty hot, so oil must have been flowing through it.

I took a straight edge and found that the little piece that fits down in the oil port is NOT perfectly flush to the top edges of the outside of the port where the adapter fits. It's off by maybe 1/32?

Any thoughts?
 
ryonker said:
Ok; I took everything apart. Interestingly, the return line from the cooler did not drip oil; it seemed almost dry:-k. Oil did drip out of the other line.

I know when I was driving the cooler got pretty hot, so oil must have been flowing through it.


Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

Check (with air pressure, maybe) if there is a blockage....oil might be flowing into the cooler, but not out of it.....oil usually drips out from both banjos when unbolted.

Tony.
 
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Ryonker,

The oil pressure light flickering during deceleration indicates that the plunger might be moving sideways and contacting the side of the bore - thus completing the ground path. I’ve noticed that some pressure sensor switches have more lateral play than others. When you pull off the adapter pull out the sensor and see if there is enough lateral play for the metal plunger to hit the side of the bore. Also check to see how tight the plunger is against the bottom of the oil feed port; if it’s too tight, the oil will have a hard time pushing it out of the way.

The 1/32” clearance is pretty marginal since it will allow leakage – this can cause the light to come on at idle after the oil thins out when it gets hot. I’d contact Terry and ask him what’s up with that. You may be able to put a gasket on the extension piece to snug it up but just make sure the gasket is captured properly so it can’t move or fall out.

In terms of how much oil to add, most coolers don’t hold a ton of oil – maybe ? quart or so. Each situation is different though so can generalize on this. I recommend adding extra oil – above the window. If your bike has rubber lines you can quickly clamp off the lines right at the adapter immediately after shutting down the engine. This will capture the oil in the cooler and allow you to check the oil level in the crankcase using the sight glass.

Hope this helps.
 
you are having a problem with both the light flickering and low oil pressure when warm. the light flickering doesn't bother me, it's the low pressure on the gauge that in my opinion is what should be looked into.
if the oil is bypassing the oil cooler adapter the switch will not open fully and the light will flicker, but oil still will get to the oil gallery that the gauge is attached to.
put the original adapter back on and check the oil pressure when warm.
 
2-3 lbs is normal at idle for the low pressure GS motors when the oil is warm. My 1100G and my 750B both run about 3-6lbs while moving when warm, unless i really get up in the RPMs, then i *MIGHT* see 8-9 lbs. When the oil is cold tho, it will register about 12lbs or thereabouts.
 
rustybronco said:
you are having a problem with both the light flickering and low oil pressure when warm. the light flickering doesn't bother me, it's the low pressure on the gauge that in my opinion is what should be looked into.
if the oil is bypassing the oil cooler adapter the switch will not open fully and the light will flicker, but oil still will get to the oil gallery that the gauge is attached to.
put the original adapter back on and check the oil pressure when warm.
Click to expand...

I installed my oil pressure gauge the same time as the cooler :oops:.

However, if oil pressure was an issue, wouldn't my oil light have come on at sometime?
 
ryonker said:
I installed my oil pressure gauge the same time as the cooler :oops:.

However, if oil pressure was an issue, wouldn't my oil light have come on at sometime?
Click to expand...
It was my guess that you did both at the same time and I don't think that oil pressure is the issue or the light would have come on before you converted to the oil cooler.
more the reason I believe is a restriction to oil flow through the cooler, in combination with the adapter having switch fitting issues or supply port fitting issues.
(don't rule out a bad adapter, the gs850 I just bought had a switch problem when they installed a cooler and I have the note to prove it)
to me it's the only thing that makes sense.
you could bypass the cooler and check the oil pressure on the gauge when hot. (don't worry about the idiot light switch yet)
putting it back to stock a good way to eliminate the cooler/adapter from the equation so you will know what your oil pressure truly is.

***edit*** can you blow through the cooler easily? (I'm looking for a check valve and/or a restriction in it)
 
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I don't think the problem is low oil pressure or a restriction, I think you are loosing oil flow through bleed-off from the 1/32" gap and maybe the oil pressure switch plunger is contacting the inside diameter of that switch adapter thus completing the ground path which throws the light.

Get that gap sorted out (try a gasket maybe) and check to see if the plunger is able to hit the inside of the bore. Replace the switch if it can and I bet the oil light stays off.

Good luck.
 
ryonker said:
Then at idle my oil pressure dropped down to about .5 psi, but would go up when I accelerated...
Rick
Click to expand...
his oil pressure gauge showed .5 psi.

rustybronco said:
where are you tapping the oil pressure gauge at?
Click to expand...
I still haven't gotten a clear answer if the gauge is on the oil gallery or not.

the dis-advantage of not seeing it...
 
Last edited:
rustybronco said:
his oil pressure gauge showed .5 psi.


I still haven't gotten a clear answer if the gauge is on the oil gallery or not.

the dis-advantage of not seeing it...
Click to expand...

Standard spot to install the gauge is on the right side of the cylinder.

.5 psi at idle, as indicated on the gauge, is similar to my bike. $20 VDO gauge leaves a lot to be desired. My gauge doesn't even go back to zero after only a few months of use.
 
Just catching up with this thread

Just catching up with this thread

I think Nessism has it nailed. If the neck of the adapter leaks, then the switch could show low pressure when there is no drop in pressure in the gallery(at the oil pressure gauge).

I think the only way to capture a gasket would be to use an o-ring in a groove on the adapter neck.

I'm glad I dont have this problem.:oops:

It really is a false problem caused by trying to retain the pressure switch. There really is no loss in pressure that would be confirmed by simply reverting back to stock plate and checking the pressure gauge for similar operation.

Posplayr
 
Thanks everyone!!!!!

Thanks everyone!!!!!

:D Thanks everybody for all the helpful responses!!!!

Rusty Bronco, here is a thread with pictures of oil pressure gauges mounted like mine.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=125075

Wow, I just really appreciate the time everyone has taken to think about this with me and offer help...you guys are awesome :D!

Nessism, I was off when I said 1/32 (just a guess--to measure is to know, so I will try a feeler gauge when if I take it apart again :oops:). The gap is small than that.

So, if the bike is really hot (while riding) and when I stop at a light and the pressure is between .5 and 1 psi at idle, I shouldn't worry about that? Nessism, you said yours goes that low sometimes as well?

Thanks everyone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Rick
 
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