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OK, now for the run-down

  • Thread starter Thread starter KRISTI'SGS550
  • Start date Start date
jets

jets

if you're replacing 3 jets anyway, i'd replace the 4th as well. that way you minimise the chance of a headache when it comes to the tuning (as you'll know the jets are NOT a part of a (possible) problem
 
valve clearance

valve clearance

you are supossed to measure the gap between the cam and the shim. the cam has to be in a particular position relative to the shim/bucket, i'll post the instruction for you
what's the thickest feeler gauge that you can slide?
 
valve adjustment

valve adjustment

Valve adjustment
When checking exhaust valves, the outer cylinder's (#1 or #4) cam lobe is pointing forward, the inner lobes (#2 or #3) will be pointing UP. Do not move the crank, you can check both of them. Then rotate the crank 180 degrees so the outer cylinder on the other side of the engine is pointing forward and the inner one is pointing up. Again, you can check both valves without moving the crank.

On the intake side, the outer cylinder's lobe will be pointing UP, the inner one will be pointing BACK. Check both valves on that side, then rotate the crank 180 degrees and check the other side.

The theory here is that both valves are untensioned which makes the clearance more consistant than if #1 was depressing the valve while trying to measure #2.

 
more info, just in case

more info, just in case

cylinders are "counted" 1 - 4 starting from the left when you sit on the bike
exhaust valves are the ones in front of the engine. intake valves are at the back.
 
psyguy,
thank you for the run-down and help on the valve adjustment. I never understand why the positioning, thanks for pointing out that it is to get a better measurement. Some of my gauges go 3/4 of the way between the shaft and the tappet, some go 1/2 and some go 1/4 way. All feeler gauges fit between, but none fit all the way between. Do you get what I mean?
 
I think I figured it out. I am using feeler gauges in inches, not mm. I will have to go to the store tomorrow and pick up some mm feeler gauges. The feelers are supposed to go all the way between right?
 
Today I also pulled my cam chain tensioner and cleaned it and reset it. I don't think it was properly installed by the PO because it wasn't moving at all. I think he has the screw and bolts tightened all the way therefore not letting the setup move at all. So I pulled it, cleaned a lot of crud off of it and reinstalled it properly so it will hopefully work when I start the bike.
good call on the tensioner!
i suspect it is easy to get it wrong unless time is taken to study how the tensioner actually works :-s
i had to go back and forth between the tensioner in my hands and the service manual a few times before i could get my head around it
 
yeah I had to look at a walk through a couple times while putting the tensioner back together, to make sure i did it correctly.
 
psyguy,
thank you for the run-down and help on the valve adjustment. I never understand why the positioning, thanks for pointing out that it is to get a better measurement. Some of my gauges go 3/4 of the way between the shaft and the tappet, some go 1/2 and some go 1/4 way. All feeler gauges fit between, but none fit all the way between. Do you get what I mean?
need to go THINNER then
the gauge has to go all the way through under the shaft
 
I think I figured it out. I am using feeler gauges in inches, not mm. I will have to go to the store tomorrow and pick up some mm feeler gauges. The feelers are supposed to go all the way between right?
you CAN use the gauges in inches if you have the right sizes
do you have access to the data on the gaps in inches?
 
you CAN use the gauges in inches if you have the right sizes
do you have access to the data on the gaps in inches?


I looked at the gauges closer after we started talking and it has the inches and mm. The smallest mm is .038 and it doesn't fit underneath. The gauge then goes to .051mm, followed by .076 and 1.02mm. None of which, especially the 1.02 fit underneath the shaft and over the shims. The small ones fit about 3/4 of the way, but they can't poke out the other side, either too big or I still have the shaft facing the wrong way or something? Shouldn't some of these fit? Like the .038, .051 at least?
 
Shouldn't some of these fit? Like the .038, .051 at least?
it would be VERY nice if they did but reading the forums here it seems that that's often not the case - unless the PO was a member here and knew the importance of the proper valve adjustment!

if .038 gauge doesn't fit you'll need to go down (at least 1) size on shims
you can take them all out taking care to write down their position, they should be stamped with a number, you may be able to re-use some and see how your gauge fits

talk to "steve" he's got excell template easy to work out the shim sizes you require
there's a lso a shim swap thread going on, you might want to check that
 
it would be VERY nice if they did but reading the forums here it seems that that's often not the case - unless the PO was a member here and knew the importance of the proper valve adjustment!

if .038 gauge doesn't fit you'll need to go down (at least 1) size on shims
you can take them all out taking care to write down their position, they should be stamped with a number, you may be able to re-use some and see how your gauge fits

talk to "steve" he's got excell template easy to work out the shim sizes you require
there's a lso a shim swap thread going on, you might want to check that

Yeah I emailed steve for his awesome excell template. I didn't see him on tonight though so maybe he will send it to me tomorrow? After I get my little guys measured and figure out what I need and what I have left over I will post my findings on the shim swap thread. I have been reading through it a few times looking for answers to my questions.
 
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if .038 gauge doesn't fit you'll need to go down (at least 1) size on shims
you can take them all out taking care to write down their position, they should be stamped with a number, you may be able to re-use some and see how your gauge fits
When PSYGUY says "you can take them all out", he doesn't mean at once as you will damage the camshaft lobes and buckets as you rotate the motor. Measure each clearance and then take it out without moving the motor, measure the shim, record its size and which valve it belongs to. Replace that shim and then do the next one.
 
So if the .38mm doesn't fit all the way under and through the other side than I need to foresure go down one shim size? Do I have that correct? And that should make at least that one work and I will be off to the next one right?
 
When PSYGUY says "you can take them all out", he doesn't mean at once as you will damage the camshaft lobes and buckets as you rotate the motor.

thanks mate :-D
it's so easy to forget pointing out some small detail that can cost you money in the end (there was a thread on here about this exact situation just the other day) [-o<
 
Oh I totally forgot to tell everyone, I missed out on a totally cheap fairly good looking, but needed work 1986 GSX-R. I called the guy and he said it had just sold for like $250. I was bummed, that would have been a fun bike and with this forum probably a pretty easy fix.
 
thanks mate :-D
it's so easy to forget pointing out some small detail that can cost you money in the end (there was a thread on here about this exact situation just the other day) [-o<

That's OK mate. I know that things can seem to sound right when you write it and read it over because you know what you mean. It's always good to have a third party read the instruction for you to see if ordinary people can understand it. When I write a Work Instruction for Transfield (the company I am employed by) I always give it to someone else in the office to read to see if they understand it. It takes away all the preconceived ideas that the writer may have. I know I am RAMBLING again. Anyway you've put forward some good ideas in the thread. Cheers.
 
psyguy,
you definitely have put some good ideas on here. I enjoy everything you have written and you have helped me with my many problems.

Suzuki_Don,
it is alsways a good idea to have someone read over our work. I need someone to follow me around and rad everything I write or type.

Thanks all,

Cory
 
I heard there would be no math today!

I heard there would be no math today!

So if the .38mm doesn't fit all the way under and through the other side than I need to foresure go down one shim size? Do I have that correct? And that should make at least that one work and I will be off to the next one right?

Hi Mr. KRISTI'SGS550,

The valve clearance spec (between the shim and cam lobe) on our bikes is between .03mm and .08mm. In inches that would be .0018 and .00315. Remember to keep your decimal points in the right places.

I recommend picking up a metric feeler gauge set at your local auto store. My gauge doesn't have a .03mm. But if the .04mm doesn't fit, it's time for a smaller shim.

Forgive me if I state the obvious.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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