If all connections are solid, stator wired straight to R/R, how hot will the stock R/R get? I'm going to replace it anyway, but won't be able to get to it before a 350 mile run this coming weekend. I've got decent voltage across the battery. I'm also not clear as to whether I can run the R/R feed wire straight to the battery with a fuse, as I've seen suggested somewhere, or does it have to go thru the harness as stock?
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One more question, R/R
- Thread starter wymple
- Start date
C
Crankthat
Guest
Not sure on heat.
Just asked the fuse question earlier myself. (Thank you Tom203 and Steve!)
Show Thread Answered on bottom.
That is a no go on the hot RR wire to battery with a 20 amp fuse.
Will be the same with a stock unit.
I built a bracket that is probably unnecessary with my series RR.
Too mount where a oil cooler would normally mount.
Above the front fender on frame just below the neck.
It will get plenty of air there.
Maybe not so good when stopped as right above the pipes.
I think it is a great placement for out in the country where I ride.
Not so good for in the city with stop and go traffic.
Just asked the fuse question earlier myself. (Thank you Tom203 and Steve!)
Show Thread Answered on bottom.
That is a no go on the hot RR wire to battery with a 20 amp fuse.
Will be the same with a stock unit.
I built a bracket that is probably unnecessary with my series RR.
Too mount where a oil cooler would normally mount.
Above the front fender on frame just below the neck.
It will get plenty of air there.
Maybe not so good when stopped as right above the pipes.
I think it is a great placement for out in the country where I ride.
Not so good for in the city with stop and go traffic.
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Not sure but I'd guess something near 100 deg fahrenheit, depending VERY much on how much wind and what temperature the air is. If you are stopngo in traffic it likely gets hotter.
It doesn't HAVE to "run through the harness as stock". You can attach it straight to battery or the nearby appropriate starter solenoid post with a fuse.
But the general opinion here is that it is not the Best Option.
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The bike will be fine as is. Main thing is to run the stator direct to the R/R, and fix the R/R grounds, as you have already done. Regarding running the R/R direct to the battery or into the harness, I've followed Jim Pos's recommendations and connected to the factory harness on my bike, but Kawasaki runs the R/R output direct to the battery so I don't think you need to fret too heavily if you have done this yourself. Kawasaki doesn't even use a fuse inline on some models.