• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Order of Operations?

  • Thread starter Thread starter ZoSo750
  • Start date Start date
Z

ZoSo750

Guest
I've got my 82 750T running finally, not perfect, but not terrible. So now I'm on to something I've been contemplating for a week or so. I sync'd the carbs but I've still got a low-end "stumble" and at when cruising the motor kind of bogs and slows down unless I'm sending fuel to the carbs. That being said, I want to do plug chops but I've got some wild valve noise and I haven't even popped the valve covers to see what everything looks like and I know they haven't been adjusted, much less looked at, in at least 5 years.

Would adjusting valves before doing my plug chops be a better idea than doing the chops first?
 
ZoSo750;1281900 Would adjusting valves before doing my plug chops be a better idea than doing the chops first?[/QUOTE said:
Unfortunately, adjusting the valves should have come before the carb sync'd, since they have alot to do with intake manifold pressures.
What does "unless I'm sending fuel to the carbs" mean exactly?
 
Really? I thought that sync'ing was mainly to do with air/fuel ratio via having each butterfly open and close at the same and at the same rate, not manifold pressures... Crap! :-s

"On the throttle" is what I meant by that. Sorry, I'm a diesel tech, so I don't typically use that word :p
 
I've got my 82 750T running finally, not perfect, but not terrible. So now I'm on to something I've been contemplating for a week or so. I sync'd the carbs but I've still got a low-end "stumble" and at when cruising the motor kind of bogs and slows down unless I'm sending fuel to the carbs. That being said, I want to do plug chops but I've got some wild valve noise and I haven't even popped the valve covers to see what everything looks like and I know they haven't been adjusted, much less looked at, in at least 5 years.

Would adjusting valves before doing my plug chops be a better idea than doing the chops first?

careful with those wild valve noises...
i have had more than one 80-82 750 brought to me for valve adjustments only to find out that the engine had spun a rod bearing.
the noise is that light..
the sounds comes from the piston hitting the cylinder head, when you rev it up it gets louder and more consistent.
good luck.
 
Really? I thought that sync'ing was mainly to do with air/fuel ratio via having each butterfly open and close at the same and at the same rate, not manifold pressures... Crap! :-s

"On the throttle" is what I meant by that. Sorry, I'm a diesel tech, so I don't typically use that word :p

It does have to do with how much mixed fuel is leaving the carb body. The valve on the other hand has a relationship of time open/closed and passage volume. If this is out of spec you have a new problem of too much or not enough material, i.e. mixture or gases left in the chamber which is now a pressure issue on the next compress cycle of the piston.
 
Diesel tech! what size do you typically work on?
Sorry about "intake manifold pressure" wording I used- I'm sure it sounded confusing to someone who works on multi cylinder engines sharing a common intake.
Anyways, airflow thru carb throat depends on piston creating a decent and consistent vacuum on its intake stroke. Leaking valves would interfere with this is what I should have said.
 
Diesel tech! what size do you typically work on?

I work on Powerstrokes for the most part. A Cummins every now and then.

I got a lot of work ahead of me it looks... The sound is consistant and does not change with engine RPM. I'm tearing the motor down once it gets too cold to ride but I hope adjusting the valves will fix it! Thanks for the input!
 
I got a lot of work ahead of me it looks... The sound is consistant and does not change with engine RPM. I'm tearing the motor down once it gets too cold to ride but I hope adjusting the valves will fix it! Thanks for the input!

You should isolate where the sound is coming from with a stethoscope

Valve and camchain noise should increase with rpm

Why would you tear the motor down?

Is it low on compression?
 
You should isolate where the sound is coming from with a stethoscope

Valve and camchain noise should increase with rpm

Why would you tear the motor down?

Is it low on compression?
The only reason I'd tear it down is just because that's how I am. I enjoy that kind of stuff and that way I know that everything inside has been overhauled or replaced if necessary. Just peace of mind is all :). The noise also may get louder with rpm, but the pipe that's on there makes it a little difficult to hear anything other than exhaust haha.

I took the valve cover off last night though and went to align the marks on the camshafts and noticed that they don't line up as if the chain jumped a tooth on the sprocket? I haven't looked into it much beyond that, but would a bad chain tensioner allow this to happen? There wasn't much backlash on the chain when I wiggled it.
 
I took the valve cover off last night though and went to align the marks on the camshafts and noticed that they don't line up as if the chain jumped a tooth on the sprocket? I haven't looked into it much beyond that, but would a bad chain tensioner allow this to happen? There wasn't much backlash on the chain when I wiggled it.

Go to electrical forum and look for post by drycell- in the replies there's a good pic of the timing marks on the crankshaft. Understand how the marks here and the camshafts positions are determined before you assume anything. Yes, it's possible it jumped a tooth but be very careful. The cam tensioner could have been installed wrong or stuck at one time.
 
I work on Powerstrokes for the most part. A Cummins every now and then.

I bet those Powerstrokes keep you pretty busy! :D
It took a bit of turning before the marks lined up on my 750. I would think you would see evidence of the chain jumping a tooth on either the chain or one of the cam gears.
 
I bet those Powerstrokes keep you pretty busy! :D
It took a bit of turning before the marks lined up on my 750. I would think you would see evidence of the chain jumping a tooth on either the chain or one of the cam gears.
Hey! I drive a 7.3L and I don't have problems! It's the 6.0L's that pay the bills anyway :p

As it turns out though, everything was fine and the marks on the right side ends of the cams did line up after all. Must've been a little darker than I thought when I looked at it the first time. I just hope that when I was adjusting them I was measuring the right way. I used the smaller of the clearance limits when I adjusted them, but I made sure to slide it in from the front and then both sides. I guess we'll find out... HA!
 
Back
Top