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over my head!!!!!!help

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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ok, heres the scoop....while installing the front wheel i ran into some trouble. 1st the break caliper fell apart. meaning the cylinder shaped thing which resides within rubber housing fell out...or i actually removed it because it would not open enough (i am not a mechanic, im trying to learn as i go, but i gonna cry real soon) i do not know exactly how hydralic disc breaks work, more honestly i am completly confused....on the other side, the caliper will not open enough to sit properly on the disc...what do i do? so my basic question is, how to i reasble the caliper so that it is completly open and will fit over the pads and disc?

ps...the bike is now resting on the front fork....is this real bad?

82 gs 750ez
 
You'll have to force the piston back into the caliper it fell out of. It's tricky and took me a lot of effort but I got it back in without removing the brake line. The reason you don't remove the brake line is because you may end up needing to replace the washers which seal the line. You can squeeze the other calipers piston back in with the brake pad and a c-clamp. Do what you can to keep everything oil and brake fluid free. If things get messy use brake clean. :wink:

Steve
 
the caliper is already removed from the line. there is break fluid everwhere!

how do i know if i need to replace the washers?

and as for the other side, just squeeze it together, correct.

how about the bike resting on the forks....is that ok...its all i could manage to do by myself.
 
Sounds like fun. :D Before doing anything else wash anything that's painted and come in contact with brake fluid off with water. Don't get the water inside the brake system but this needs to be done if you want your bike to be painted in the morning. You'll need to do a search on bleeding your brakes too.

Steve
 
Break piston

Break piston

since you have your break piston completely out, make sure there is no sediment or gunk in the hole that it fits in. You may also want to pull the O ring and clear off the crud on the O ring and put it back. There is a great site that describes how the brakes work and how to fix them

http://oldmanhonda.com/MC/Rbrakes.html

Once you clean up the piston and cylinder and lubed it with brake fluid you should be able to slide the piston in easily. You may need to open the bleed valve slightly. Air tends to build up and needs some place to go.
 
wear rubber gloves too!
Brake fluid can burn the heck out of your skin.
You may have already found that out.

Mo
 
to0_pr0per said:
thanks....what about bleeding out the line?
Click to expand...

Not too difficult. The easiest way is with a mitivac or similar pump that sucks the fluid through the lines. I've always done them manually though.

Bleeding brakes in a nutshell:

Make sure the master cylinder is always full of fluid, attach some tighly fitting clear plastic tubing to the bleeder, open the bleeder screw 1/4 turn with a box end wrench (8mm I think and leave the wrench on the bleeder screw) squeeze the brake lever to force the air bubbles out but before releasing the lever, tighten the bleeder back up, repeat until there are no bubbles coming through the line. Again, don't let the master cyclinder run dry.
 
Bleeding from an empty system

Bleeding from an empty system

I have found that bleeding the brakes with an empty system is a long process. However, I have found a trick.

1. Make sure to keep fluid in the master cylinder. Don't let it run out.
2. Place a fairly long piece of clear tubing that fits tight on the bleed valve (aquarium tubing works)
3. Place the end that is not on the bleed valve in a small container of brake fluid (maybe an inch deep)
4. Open the bleed valve and pump the brake lever. You should see bubbles in teh brake fluid in the small container at the end of the tube. The fluid in the container keeps the air from coming bakc into the line. Just keep pumping the brakes till you see a good stream of fluid only coming out of the bleed valve in the clear tube. You need to make sure there are no air bubbles coming from the bleed valve.
 
IF the piston has been removed or pushed out past the o-ring then the caliper HAS to be completely cleaned. The o-ring ( actually a gland seal) has to be removed. Corrosion builds up behind the seal which has no effect while the piston is still inside it. When the piston is removed this corrosion is enough to push the seal out so far that the piston either will not fit past it or the seal will be damaged by forcing the piston in. Briefly:
Dismantle caliper completely. Note how it fits on the hanger. Remove bleed screw.
VERY carefully dig out seal. A small blunt, bent electrical screwdriver works for me.NOTE WHICH WAY ROUND IT IS
With the same screwdriver scrape out all the gunge in the groove the seal sits in.
Clean the bore with wire wool and carb cleaner. Get rid of any ridges.
Clean the piston with wire wool and carb cleaner.
Clean the bleed screw with one bristle of a wire brush and carb cleaner.
NOTE: I use carb cleaner in a spray can.
VERY carefully remove any corrosion that may be stuck to the seal with your thumbnail.
Wash everything with soap and water.
Visually check that everything is spotless and repeat washing as neccessary.
Blow dry everything with compressed air. Thoroughly.
Replace seal. THE RIGHT WAY ROUND.
Lubricate the seal with brake grease.
Replace piston using a gentle twisting motion. It has to go in square. Be GENTLE but firm. Don't force it.
Push the piston all the way in.
Open the dust seal out and fit the caliper end first. Use plenty of brake grease.
Fit the piston end by catching one side of the groove then slide a finger round each side of the piston to stretch the seal slightly until it pops in completely. Use plenty of brake grease.
Replace the bleed screw with some anti-sieze compound.
Now do the other two! ONE AT A TIME!

Compressed air is a powerful thing. I have been blowing pistons out with compressed air for years and catching them in my palm. I got careless a few weeks ago and nearly lost the end of my finger when it got caught between the caliper and the piston so now I use a rag. Like you are meant to.

There is more to maintaining brakes than this but that is how to deal with the pistons and my typing finger is all worn out. When things go right I can strip and rebuild a caliper in 30 minutes. When things go wrong getting the piston back in takes longer than everything else put together but I have never damaged a seal. Broken bleed screws are a tale in their own right. All constructive criticism gratefully received; I will never stop learning.
 
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