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Overall Electrical Woes

  • Thread starter Thread starter 81GS850
  • Start date Start date
I'M GOING TO BURN THIS THING TO THE GROUND. New stator. And it doesn't charge.. I checked both r/r i had, one from the bike which had a bad diode, one from an r6 my friend gave to me and it's bad or something cause the bike is only 12.4 at idle. I'd give you a quick test but as soon as i pulled it in the garage it died and refused to start. No power to the starter relay.. POS. This wiring system is a nightmare.



I think I'll be stepping away from a bit. Absolutely no desire to even move forward.



Edit. Fuse blew for some reason... Still P.O.'d
 
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Ok so after having a sleep and replacing the blown fuse I have decided not to give up "quite" yet. I have a known good r/r on my other bike that I will try that happens to be an sh-775. I charged the battery and it's reading 12.7v I brought it to work and load tested it and it showed 270 cca. I will do the quick test before I try the new r/r and report back the results. Wish me luck.
 
Ok so charged the battery and all is good!! Sorry for the frustration I've caused anyone and thanks for everyone's help!
 
OK I guess we will have to take your word for it.

I did the quick test. I'll get back with the results today. Sorry I had to work on some other things. The petcock stopped feeding fuel to the engine so I'll try to get some readings but they were within the range specified in the quick test. Thank you for being patient with me when I wasn't the most patient.
 
I did the quick test. I'll get back with the results today. Sorry I had to work on some other things. The petcock stopped feeding fuel to the engine so I'll try to get some readings but they were within the range specified in the quick test. Thank you for being patient with me when I wasn't the most patient.

There are just many clues about the charging system hat can be derived from the numbers beyond just being in range.
 
OK sorry for the slow reply. I did the quick test and here are the results:

1.) key off................12.8v

2.) key on (but not cranking with lights for 10 sec).....12.4v

3.) at idle (1500 rpm).....13.0v

4.) at 2500 rpm............13.46v

5.) at 5000 rpm............13.65v

6.) key off....................13.0v


I have an Sh713aa r/r which is from an 03-05 yamaha r6. It says it's rated at 35a and 14.1-14.9v no load regulated voltage. At 2500 i had to hold it there for a bit to finally get that number I'd say around 30 sec or less. Should the voltage come up immediately? Also I am confident I could get the voltage higher at 5000 but again it was too loud to be revving it that long.
 
OK sorry for the slow reply. I did the quick test and here are the results:

1.) key off................12.8v

2.) key on (but not cranking with lights for 10 sec).....12.4v

3.) at idle (1500 rpm).....13.0v

4.) at 2500 rpm............13.46v

5.) at 5000 rpm............13.65v

6.) key off....................13.0v


I have an Sh713aa r/r which is from an 03-05 yamaha r6. It says it's rated at 35a and 14.1-14.9v no load regulated voltage. At 2500 i had to hold it there for a bit to finally get that number I'd say around 30 sec or less. Should the voltage come up immediately? Also I am confident I could get the voltage higher at 5000 but again it was too loud to be revving it that long.

I lost track; Did you also rewind your stator?
The way it is charging if OK(it would be better to get to at least 14.25v), not as high as you would want. A stock stator would have saturated the rotor by 5000 RPM and it would not climb any higher.

I searched for SH713aa and cant' find anything from Shindengen, but it is the same form factor as the MOSFETS and SH-775 SERIES. I would not assume it is a Series R/R but more likely a MOSFET SHUNT.


I would proceed to Revised Phase A to measure (Under GS Charging Health) the voltage drops to see if that is the cause for lower charging voltage.

STEP #2 MEASURE POSITIVE LEAD VOLTAGE DROP
STEP #3 MEASURE NEGATIVE LEAD VOLTAGE DROP

Link to Revised PHASE A of Stator Pages:

It is also strange that it took 30 seconds to stabilize. I wonder if this is different type of control mechanism inside?
 
"Slow to stabilize" could be related to battery condition.

If you have been starting the bike and/or loading the battery just before running it,
it might just take a few seconds to bring up the charge on the battery.

.
 
"Slow to stabilize" could be related to battery condition.

If you have been starting the bike and/or loading the battery just before running it,
it might just take a few seconds to bring up the charge on the battery.

.

I was considering that but the voltage stress test is so good (12.8v==>12.4v) it hardly seems like there is a battery problem.
 
Oh this is definitely a shunt style r/r. I got it for free so that's why I'm using it.


I got a new stator. The old r/r turned out bad. I was thinking maybe the r/r had a different mechanism and that's why it's not charging as expected? Do you all think this is something I need to worry about as of now or just go with it?

I'll go through the stator papers. I also added a single ground point.
 
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Oh this is definitely a shunt style r/r. I got it for free so that's why I'm using it.


I got a new stator. The old r/r turned out bad. I was thinking maybe the r/r had a different mechanism and that's why it's not charging as expected? Do you all think this is something I need to worry about as of now or just go with it?

I'll go through the stator papers. I also added a single ground point.

As stated before

I would proceed to Revised Phase A to measure (Under GS Charging Health) the voltage drops to see if that is the cause for lower charging voltage.
 
Sorry that's what i meant.

Sorry they are different. I revised Phase A to test at 5K RPM when there should be the highest load and the largest voltage drops. This was not part of the original.
 
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