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Overall Electrical Woes

  • Thread starter Thread starter 81GS850
  • Start date Start date
Yea I know the coil isn't a problem.. but there is voltage drops in the harness still for charging. R/R or Stator is bad. I've done the static tests for the stator and r/r but havn't been able to do the test while the bikes running until tonight... and the damn things not charging.
 
Well the stator passed the static tests but when the motors running there's different ac voltages between separate legs. So I guess the stator is bad?
 
How "different" are the voltages? :-k

They won't always be EXACTLY the same, some variation is allowed.

.
 
How "different" are the voltages? :-k

They won't always be EXACTLY the same, some variation is allowed.

.

Kinda like the guys that say, I don't know what bike I have so please post pictures of your bikes so I can tell what I have.
 
Thanks Posplayer for your kind words and wisdom. I can already tell I've ****ed you off so why do you keep responding? I posted that from my phone so sorry I didn't give full info. One of the legs was showing 2.4 when the other leg was showing 15 at idle. I don't have mufflers cause they are rotted out. I only have the exhaust pipes. So I don't think my neighbors would be pleased at me running this thing at 5000 rpm. I am getting some exhaust this week that should have been here already but the ebay seller was a lazy ass and didn't ship them out till thursday when I payed him monday. This was a $400 "deal" that's turning into a money pit. I'm trying to make sure it's mechanically sound before I decide to invest more. But truth is I'm already upside down trying to get this pos running. Thank you for the insight. Really.


Tom yes I've done that check with the cycle running and that's what I came up with at idle because again I can't rev it up to 5k cause it doesn't have exhaust. If the legs were all showing 14~15 I'd understand that variation. However one leg is showing 2.4 while the other two legs are showing ~15. That tells me one leg is not performing like the other two. I've also tried another later model r/r I had from a friend that goes to an r6 and it didn't charge after I hooked that up either. I realize I could have two bad r/r but I already have a stator not testing correctly at idle.

Steve yea I understand sorry I wasn't more clear in the first post.
 
Thanks Posplayer for your kind words and wisdom. I can already tell I've ****ed you off so why do you keep responding? I posted that from my phone so sorry I didn't give full info.

Actually you sound like the one that is ****ed off.

And actually I'm not really keeping track of you or your posts, just making an observation to Steve.

And do you actually have to ask why I made the observation to Steve?
 
Actually you sound like the one that is ****ed off.

And actually I'm not really keeping track of you or your posts, just making an observation to Steve.

And do you actually have to ask why I made the observation to Steve?
No. Ur equating me to a guy asking u to fix his bike over the Internet which is NOT what I'm asking. I'm reporting back my findings for input from people that know more than me. But screw it. I've read the stator papers and have done static tests on the r/r and the stator. I've checked the voltage at the r/r and it was same 12.4 as was at the battery at idle. I checked the stator and the phases aren't balanced. What else am I missing? But ur post mocking me doesn't help anyone.
 
No. Ur equating me to a guy asking u to fix his bike over the Internet which is NOT what I'm asking. I'm reporting back my findings for input from people that know more than me. But screw it. I've read the stator papers and have done static tests on the r/r and the stator. I've checked the voltage at the r/r and it was same 12.4 as was at the battery at idle. I checked the stator and the phases aren't balanced. What else am I missing? But ur post mocking me doesn't help anyone.
Actually did not mistake you for anybody. But what I do now realize is the futile approach you seem bound to pursue.
 
Actually did not mistake you for anybody. But what I do now realize is the futile approach you seem bound to pursue.

Ok, I'm listening but your cryptic talking is confusing. Shoot it to me straight. What do I need to do? And should I not suspect the Stator because the phases are not producing the same voltages at idle?
 
Ok, I'm listening but your cryptic talking is confusing. Shoot it to me straight.
I was a Commercial Electrician, retired into computer repair and Posplayr is so far above my level that I'm not sure I understand what he is talking about all the time, but I have more than a clue. He is shooting it to you straight, and is probably just as frustrated as you that you don't understand what he is saying. Leave your ego at the door and ask questions if you don't understand, I guarantee you will get your answer or enough information to figure it out yourself. People like Jim are not always the best teachers because they think at a level that I could only envy if I was that type of person. I'm not, but certainly smart enough to take every opportunity to learn from him when I can. The only stupid question is the one you don't ask or are to proud to ask. Troubleshooting over the internet is extremely difficult because there are so many variables. Hang in there. I believe this forum is extremely successful in helping people solve their problems and I know for a fact that it has helped me greatly. The bike you see in my signature was a basket case when I bought it. I knew virtually nothing about fixing my own motorcycle. They dragged me kicking and screaming to being a fair hand with the old bike, It can happen to you if you let it.
 
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Ok, I'm listening but your cryptic talking is confusing. Shoot it to me straight. What do I need to do? And should I not suspect the Stator because the phases are not producing the same voltages at idle?

If you had read most of the testing procedures in the original stator pages, quick test and both the revised phase A and B test they all require at some point running the bike to 5k rpm.

You appear to have decided that you can diagnose the electrical system by making measurements only a little above idle.
While this is bad enough as there is no basis for it you then started asking question try to use that low rpm approach without telling anybody.

i guess you have your own reasons for not fixing your exhaust, but you wasting most peoples time around here trying to use there low rpm tests you have invented.

i suspect that you can have your electrical system working in relatively short order or at least have it correct sly diagnosed if you
a: do the Quick Test and report the results and then perform the recommendations based on those results.
 
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In the mean time, it's not that hard to take the cover off and look at the stator. I am guessing you will be disgusted with the nasty burned thing you will see.

And here's a question for whoever might know that may save the 5k rpm requirement... If you put a light bulb of a certain wattage in series with each stator leg, wouldn't the shorted/bad one show as brighter?
 
In the mean time, it's not that hard to take the cover off and look at the stator. I am guessing you will be disgusted with the nasty burned thing you will see.

And here's a question for whoever might know that may save the 5k rpm requirement... If you put a light bulb of a certain wattage in series with each stator leg, wouldn't the shorted/bad one show as brighter?
the good ones would be brightest and shorted least. With the light bulb load it would still be good to measure voltages across the bulbs but that would be a funtion of rpm and bulb wattage.

and yes if the stator is obviously fried, damaged or missing then a 5k test is not nesessary till you replace it.
 
In the mean time, it's not that hard to take the cover off and look at the stator. I am guessing you will be disgusted with the nasty burned thing you will see.

And here's a question for whoever might know that may save the 5k rpm requirement... If you put a light bulb of a certain wattage in series with each stator leg, wouldn't the shorted/bad one show as brighter?


Ive taken the stator cover off. It's not showing any discoloration, but it's the oe wiring color is still there. I'll prob take it to work and hi pot it. Anyone recommend a stator that's good value? I'm not looking to spend the most on this. But don't want it failing in a couple of years.
 
Anyone recommend a stator that's good value?

I will have my next batch in a few days.

$85, shipped to your door, if you are in the USA.

Includes a one-year warranty.

Personally, I would also recommend changing the R/R to a series-type, like Polaris or Compufire.

.
 
I was thinking you'd see something like this....with varnish that flakes off with a fingernail in places...
old_Stator-2-mine_may2013.jpg


old_Stator-2-mine_detail.jpg


the good ones would be brightest and shorted least.
I wasn't very plain but I was thinking per no RPM...ie just a lightbulb and a battery hooked up to a couple of stator leads such that the resistance of the windings would be less in a shorted stator. ...some kind of test that would help where a motor doesn't run...
 
I wasn't very plain but I was thinking per no RPM...ie just a lightbulb and a battery hooked up to a couple of stator leads such that the resistance of the windings would be less in a shorted stator. ...some kind of test that would help where a motor doesn't run...

You are still leaving out some details. "a battery"........ 12V???

It is a test I guess but not very good one. Just idling the bike will put more voltage onto the stator than a battery.

Tests are usually performed to identify specific failure mods. In the case of a PM stator, this is difficult to do with out some special test equipment like a Megger.

I have proposed "cheap" methods for load testing but the voltage source is always the EMF from the stator at 5K rpm.

meggers are not that expensive (probably less than $200) so that is the way to go if you want to do this without running a bike.

I just did a quick look on ebay, this one is even under $100 shipped. I have no personal experience with these but it seems like it might be useful, however the Revised Phase B tests at 5000 rpm are known to be a pretty comprehensive tests and seldom subject to misdiagnosis if properly performed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2500V-20G-Ohm-Digital-Insulation-Megger-Tester-DY30-2-/320721858564

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Megger-1000M-1000V-Insulation-tester-resistance-meter-/390318475183
 
posplayr,

Have you ever seen or heard of an instance with unbalanced legs at idle that turned out to be fine at 5k?
 
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