paint on tank reacting

[gpz]

is there anyone on here that's into painting i painted my gs 850 tank with rattle cans and the paint reacted so i got some sealer and sprayed that on and left it , and painted it again all was fine for a couple of weeks and then the paint reacted again the paint seems to have split anyone got any good ideas as its doing my head in

 

[Nessism]

Paints often react like that. That's why I always strip the tank down to bare metal and start fresh.

Best to use paint products in the same product family, that way you know they will all be compatible.

 

[Who Dat?]

You should also know that gasoline is a pretty good solvent, very useful for removing paint.

Your best bet is to use 2-part epoxy paint, which will withstand gasoline much better.

 

[Guest]

There is a clear coat that is sold by automotive paint supply shops in a rattle can that has an activator button on the bottom of the can for the hardener. Primer is applied first to the tank in whatever color you choose and then it is clear coated. The clear coat is impervious to gasoline. After activating the hardener you only have so many hours to work with it. Any overspray or orange peeling can be buffed out with a buffing creme. The spray is wide and it does an awesome job. You have to use a respirator to work with it. Here in Canada it is sold by the name MPS - Metro products and specialists. It just came out here in the last year or so.

 

[Guest]

You want Spray Max 2K clear.

 

[argonsagas]

As Phred and Rick have suggested....you have to buy better quality paints.... which are also more expensive than the usual hardware store items.

My experience was like yours, and I learned you DEFINITELY need the two-part clear coat, as gasoline will attack all standard grade rattle-can paints.

 

[nvr2old]

My advice would be, as Ed mentioned, strip it to bare metal, and start fresh. You can still use spray cans, just go up a notch in quality. Go to an auto paint store, get a good quality high-build primer, base coat and the 2K clear, all in spray cans, all which work in conjunction with each other. Have the people there help you choose the right products. That's the key to having all the materials playing nicely together.

 

[gpz]

well thanks for all the advice the tank is now part stripped and as advised im taking it back to bare metal thanks again

 

[gpz]

here is another question I've stripped the tank to bare metal and there is a big dent where the badge screws on which i want to pull out if possible has anyone used the dent pullers that you use a glue gun with and pull the dent out I've been trying to glue the puller on to the tank but the glue does not seem strong enough it keeps pulling of I've followed the instructions and cleaned the tank anybody any hints or tips thanks in advance

 

[nvr2old]

The steel in our gas tanks is much thicker then the tin can cars those glue-on pullers were designed for, sadly. They might work on a shallow dent, a little bit. You might try taking it to a body shop and see if they can pull it with a stud gun where the rod is actually welded to the dent and then pulled. I imagine that would be doable and cheap. The problem is finding a body shop that will even talk to you. Hate that.

 

[argonsagas]

When I bought the GS1100G it had a dent in the tank that the PO had tried to ge out by pushing something against the dent from inside the tank.....part of it released but is caused more iorregularity/wrinkle.

I ended up stripping the tank, filling the dent with Bondo and then getting it professionally relined before painting with rattle cans..

When finished it looked great....but then I had the same issue described above when I spilled gasoline from time to time when filling it, and there was also some leakage from the cap. which proved to be caused by the gasket being hard and it did not seal properly..


All of which reminds me I still have the tank in the garage, long after the bike has gone.