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crapwacker
Guest
How and where do you find info to match a paint color> or is it just as easy or easier to paint side covers along with tank? And lacquer or enamel?
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spyug
Guest
Colour matching can be a hit or miss affair. It is generally easier to paint everything if you're setting up for it anyway.
You can paint with either spray bombs or auto finishes ( if you have access to the equipment. Auto finishes ( 2 part urethanes are likely the easiest) will give superior performance but you can get good results from bombs too. It is all determined by your preparation. A good smooth clean surface is an absolute must. Any bad prep will always show up.
Spray bombs are easiest for new painters as we are all pretty much familiar with them and they are easy to use. Auto finishes require a bit more effort ( in setup and clean up) but can be highly satisfying. there is more of a learning curve for sure.
While I have the equipment and expertise, I have taken to doing a lot of projects with spray bombs and then top coating with urethane clear coat. Urethane clears are the only thing that is impervious to gas. Some of the paint bombs have clears and they say they are not affected by gas but I call bull**** on that. I've tested several and all failed.
In all cases when you paint always wear an approved paint mask...no 5cent paper masks. Your lungs will thank you. Eye protection also is recommended but I find it obstructs my view (wear glasses for close in work).
If you are just starting out I would get some scrap steel sheet ( used computer case side covers are great) and practice until you can get a nice finish without runs, sags or fisheyes. A little bit of practice and you'll be good to go.
When you do lay down the paint take lots of pics for us to admire.
Good luck with it.
Cheers,
Spyug
You can paint with either spray bombs or auto finishes ( if you have access to the equipment. Auto finishes ( 2 part urethanes are likely the easiest) will give superior performance but you can get good results from bombs too. It is all determined by your preparation. A good smooth clean surface is an absolute must. Any bad prep will always show up.
Spray bombs are easiest for new painters as we are all pretty much familiar with them and they are easy to use. Auto finishes require a bit more effort ( in setup and clean up) but can be highly satisfying. there is more of a learning curve for sure.
While I have the equipment and expertise, I have taken to doing a lot of projects with spray bombs and then top coating with urethane clear coat. Urethane clears are the only thing that is impervious to gas. Some of the paint bombs have clears and they say they are not affected by gas but I call bull**** on that. I've tested several and all failed.
In all cases when you paint always wear an approved paint mask...no 5cent paper masks. Your lungs will thank you. Eye protection also is recommended but I find it obstructs my view (wear glasses for close in work).
If you are just starting out I would get some scrap steel sheet ( used computer case side covers are great) and practice until you can get a nice finish without runs, sags or fisheyes. A little bit of practice and you'll be good to go.
When you do lay down the paint take lots of pics for us to admire.
Good luck with it.
Cheers,
Spyug
Last edited:
C
crapwacker
Guest
I have a nice 1qt devilbiss I've been to break in. Old school, not HVLP
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spyug
Guest
Well then have at it sir!
As I previously mentioned it does take more effort and is more time consuming to use automotive spray equipment, especially if you are doing multiple coats. With the two part urethanes, the paint will not setup for quite some time if in an airtight container so you can pour off the excess and store it until the next coat. You do of course have to clean the gun after every use and this can take a bit of time.
Since I'm only in to solid standard colours like white, black and silver I've gotten into the habit of shooting the base colour with a spray bomb and then top coating with the urethane clear. Not only is it faster but its cheaper too. I did the GS in black for less than $15 in materials. Granted its not show quality but its pretty decent for a quick job.
I'm not sure of how much experience you have with compressors and spray equipment but a few things to know. The paint should come with a fact sheet that tells you everything about it especially the application flow pressure likely 15 to 30 psi. If your gun had a regulator that is the pressure you want to set it for. If you don't have a regultor on the gun set the outlet compressor pressure as high as it will go. This is because pressure will drop substantially over any distance even as little as 6 feet. The paint won't go on correctly if not sprayed at a decent pressure.
Don't spray on a really humid day ( read the paint fact sheet closely) and always put a water trap on the airline and even at the gun if you can. Water in the paint is a killer.
The idea when laying down paint is to make it look "wet" and to get this effect you again need the right pressure at the gun. Too much pressure and you'll put the paint on "dry" there will be a lot of bounced paint droplets and the surface will dry to a matt finish. Spraying for the wet look means putting down a fairly heavy coat. This can be tricky as too much and you'll have runs and sags. That is why you need to practice with the paint and your equipment.
If you do get runs and such wait 'til it dries and sand it off. No other solution. Likewise for any other issues that transpire.
It is not necessary to sand between coats but if changing paints i.e. enamel base covered by urethane clear I would always wet & dry sand with 1000/1500 grit to give some tooth. When sanding always wipe down with a clean (lint free) towel and mineral spirits or the recommended paint thinner. Blow off with air and or let it air dry.
Urethanes, as they use a hardner, will set up quite quickly especially in heat but if you need even faster setup you can apply heaters ( I use halogen work lights). Again check the paint facts sheet for details.
Not alot too it really just take your time, keep the work area clean and as dust ( and insect) free as possible. Obviously, don't spray near open flame, kids or pets and have some form of ventilation.
So lets see what you can do.
Cheers,
spyug
As I previously mentioned it does take more effort and is more time consuming to use automotive spray equipment, especially if you are doing multiple coats. With the two part urethanes, the paint will not setup for quite some time if in an airtight container so you can pour off the excess and store it until the next coat. You do of course have to clean the gun after every use and this can take a bit of time.
Since I'm only in to solid standard colours like white, black and silver I've gotten into the habit of shooting the base colour with a spray bomb and then top coating with the urethane clear. Not only is it faster but its cheaper too. I did the GS in black for less than $15 in materials. Granted its not show quality but its pretty decent for a quick job.
I'm not sure of how much experience you have with compressors and spray equipment but a few things to know. The paint should come with a fact sheet that tells you everything about it especially the application flow pressure likely 15 to 30 psi. If your gun had a regulator that is the pressure you want to set it for. If you don't have a regultor on the gun set the outlet compressor pressure as high as it will go. This is because pressure will drop substantially over any distance even as little as 6 feet. The paint won't go on correctly if not sprayed at a decent pressure.
Don't spray on a really humid day ( read the paint fact sheet closely) and always put a water trap on the airline and even at the gun if you can. Water in the paint is a killer.
The idea when laying down paint is to make it look "wet" and to get this effect you again need the right pressure at the gun. Too much pressure and you'll put the paint on "dry" there will be a lot of bounced paint droplets and the surface will dry to a matt finish. Spraying for the wet look means putting down a fairly heavy coat. This can be tricky as too much and you'll have runs and sags. That is why you need to practice with the paint and your equipment.
If you do get runs and such wait 'til it dries and sand it off. No other solution. Likewise for any other issues that transpire.
It is not necessary to sand between coats but if changing paints i.e. enamel base covered by urethane clear I would always wet & dry sand with 1000/1500 grit to give some tooth. When sanding always wipe down with a clean (lint free) towel and mineral spirits or the recommended paint thinner. Blow off with air and or let it air dry.
Urethanes, as they use a hardner, will set up quite quickly especially in heat but if you need even faster setup you can apply heaters ( I use halogen work lights). Again check the paint facts sheet for details.
Not alot too it really just take your time, keep the work area clean and as dust ( and insect) free as possible. Obviously, don't spray near open flame, kids or pets and have some form of ventilation.
So lets see what you can do.
Cheers,
spyug
Last edited:
S
switz1
Guest
Good results
Good results
http://www.colorrite.com/
I got factory colors in spray bomb from here.Excellent results.
Good results
http://www.colorrite.com/
I got factory colors in spray bomb from here.Excellent results.
C
crapwacker
Guest
Urethane clear coat in a can? I'm having trouble finding this.
S
SqDancerLynn1
Guest
spray max http://www.uschem.com find a local dealer