• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Patience

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
G

Guest

Guest
It's winter. It's raining. It's time to . . . what the hell. Remove the oil pan and replace the sump screen on my '78 GS1000.

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k175/jpmason_2006/patience/oilpan.jpg

The pan came off after a few raps on a wooden dowel with a rubber mallet. The bottom of the pan looked pretty good, for thirty-two years on the job. What little sludge had accumulated there came up with a paper towel wrapped around an index finger. I sprayed the cooling fins with Simple Green, then went to the coin-op car wash and blasted away with the high-pressure spray. Came home and watched the Jets manhandle the Chargers while working the nooks and crannies with Q-tips and Mother's polish. That was the easy part. That was the fun stuff.

Taking off the sump screen (see photo) will require patience. I know. I've done it before. The engineers at Suzuki chose to fasten it with three soft Phillips head screws that feel welded to the screen. Why not a hex-head or socket-head bolt? Something you can get leverage on. Lying on my back with an impact driver underneath the engine, I can deliver only abbreviated strikes. Spray some Seafoam on the screws, hoping the solvent will wick upwards into the threads (osmosis?), tap the screws, then jam the phillips head driver up while torquing with both hands. A good pump in the wrists and hands. Last time it took me about a week to get the job done, and when it was over I had a grip like a python. Some jobs you just can't rush . . . oh well, it's raining
 
Can you get some Vise-grips or Channel-locs on them?

Or are they above the level of the oil pan ledge?

The extra leverage would loosen them up so you can throw them away quicker. :-\\\

.
 
Those screws have loctite from the factory so try some heat on them.
 
good luck;


If you use the little picture icon between the letter and caption icons you can directly insert those hosted pics

P.S. I use a ratchet with a #2 screw socket attachment; If the bike is high enough you can leverage your elbow against the floor and drive the socket up. Turn with the ratchet handle; Tap the screw driver socket deep into the Phillips head before trying to turn it.

I never use impact wrenches instead use this method. If that fails I get out the hack saw. It is almost never required.

oilpan.jpg


Sumpscreen.jpg
 
Last edited:
That screen is clean. I'd leave it alone.
 
I dont remember having to use an impact driver on it. If you get a good screw driver with the right tip, you can take it off by hand. I use a screwdriver with interchangeable bits for these type of screws. If they made it a hex, many guys would crank down too hard and strip the thing.

Oh yeah, the screens are washable.
 
The screen is pristine, I agree. But it's coming out, because I need something strenuous to do while it's still raining . . . and as posplayer pointed out, I got a new one. The old screws will become blunderbuss ammo if Al Qaeda invade Oakland . . .

So, thanks for the advice. The new order of battle is as follows:

- heat to loosen the threadlocking compound

- set the impact driver to the side, bring burly screwdriver into play

Hope to report success by this evening . . . and hope to see some of you So Cal boys at Reno Bruce's in July.
 
Victory . . . it's not always pretty. Step one, attack the threadlocker. Bic lighter on the screws; a couple of light taps with a mallet. Dinner, plus gin and tonic for morale. Step two. #2 phillips screwdriver, two hands, maximum effort. Defeat. Step three, #2 phillips on a socket, brace for maximum upward pressure, apply torque. Feel the bit chewing up the head. I've eaten steaks tougher than these screws. Rest. Return to house. Another gin and tonic. Inspiration. What about the lineman's pliers?
Victory1.jpg
Victory1.jpg

 
crude but effective :rolleyes:

Man reading your thread I'm getting thuursty... Anybody Seen Jose
 
Phillips screws. Truly one of the worst inventions ever.
I was going to suggest leaning the bike over to get a better angle at using the impact. Never actually tried it but it could work. Of course you'd need a friend and a strategically placed spare car tire would help.
I thought the "leave it alone" suggestion had some merit to it.:-\\\
 
I read somewhere on GSR that those arent even philips, they are JIS - japanese industrial standard, i may have it wrong, but i think thats what they are called. I wonder if you had a set of those screwdrivers if that would help? I will be looking for a set for myself sometime.
 
Vice Grip pliers coming in from the side would have taken those screws right out assuming there is enough room to get at them. At any rate, glad they are out so you can move forward.:)
 
The sump screen's been removed, even though, as several pointed out, it didn't need to be. Once the new screen was bought, however, and once I got a look at the infernal phillips head screws, there was no turning back . . . and speaking of the new sump screen, here's a head scratcher. It has, as you can see in the picture, the lip of the screen folded over at regular intervals, unlike the original screen, which fit over the rim of the sump like a lid fits on a jar.

This is the correct part, by the way. I did some research* and discovered that the original design was superseded some years later. (part no. 16520-45000 by 16520-45010) my question is, from an engineering perspective, is there some reason for the design change? My only guess would be that it creates small channels for the oil to flow more quickly back into the pan . . .

* http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...ce+16520-45000&btnG=Search&aq=f&aql=&aqi=&oq=

screen.jpg
 
Screws

Screws

The phillips head screws on GS's are JIS, I bought a set and when you compare them to a #2 bit there is an obvious difference. Just put one on a screw and check the fit.
 
Looking at your pics of both screens, it looks as though the new design incorporates an internal "seal ring" on the inside, presumably to strengthen/seal the screen to the housing...

The older one shows only intermittent spot welds which could break, or allow larger particles to flow through the adjacent unwelded sections of screens.

I like the newer one better ;)
 
if you have the proper bit, I have had about a 90% sucess rate with phillips head screw removal using a ratchet attachment. You have to press hard. :-\\\

After removal get rid of them. :clap:
 
Inspiration. What about the lineman's pliers?

crude but effective ...

Vice Grip pliers coming in from the side would have taken those screws right out assuming there is enough room to get at them.

You know, I seem to recall that that very idea was proposed waaayyy back in post #3. :-\\\
Can you get some Vise-grips or Channel-locs on them?
I guess it wasn't seen because it was only posted about 40 HOURS before the "victory" post. :oops:

.
 
Back
Top