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Pharks gear lever...

  • Thread starter Thread starter Pharkmeh
  • Start date Start date
P

Pharkmeh

Guest
I thought for clarity I'd start my own thread rather than continue hijaking this thread as I am a little unsure of the best way to progress...

as Ive mentioned my lever has been traveling up the spline since I owned it... and rather than lose the thing altogether I need to fix it...

the bolt has been fastened to the point of being stripped...

as you can see below it gets to the point of dropping off



although the nut is stripped as you can see I noticed that the lever is actually threaded half way through - the top half as we look at it....





good thing I decided to do something about it cause i was actually able to remove the whole lever without removing the bolt...

so much for splines and valleys...

however, as indicated by steve in the other thread the reason it came off so readily was indead a more significant problem...

as you see in the piccy the end of the shaft appears to be bent, thereby narrowing the valley - some how rather than locking the lever in, it allows it to travel past ????



I dont have time or money to dissasemble and replace...

and I need it on the road for work...

and simply replacing the bolt wont change anything since the bolt itself has no wear or damage where it sits between the splines...

I was thinking of trying to drill out the bolt hole without re-tapping it and using a larger bolt in the hope the larger circumference might help grab...

as well as following advice in the earlier thread on filing back the gap that exists in the sleeve allowing me to pull it together tighter...

only problem with that is it looks like I need a hacksaw as getting anything other than a nail file in that gap would be impossible...

I would be grateful for any thorts you lot might have....

cheers

Phark
 
I've had that problem before. I cut a shim from an aluminum soda can to wrap around the shaft. Spread the slot in the lever with a screwdriver as much as you can so you can get nearly a 360 deg wrap with the aluminum pop can sleeve over the splined shaft. When you tighten the bolt down, it will clamp tightly enough that no valley is needed. (you can reduce your parts costs by buying a local,non major brand soda to get the aluminum can) :-) :-)
Drinking it first is up to you. :-)

Earl
 
I've had that problem before. I cut a shim from an aluminum soda can to wrap around the shaft. Spread the slot in the lever with a screwdriver as much as you can so you can get nearly a 360 deg wrap with the aluminum pop can sleeve over the splined shaft. When you tighten the bolt down, it will clamp tightly enough that no valley is needed. (you can reduce your parts costs by buying a local,non major brand soda to get the aluminum can) :-) :-)
Drinking it first is up to you. :-)

Earl


Geebuz - thanx for the tip m8

I just knew if I had to get mekanikle with it - she was gunna regret it..

got beer cans aplenty - just need a new bolt...

cheers m8

let ya know how it goes

phark
 
Glad you've saved empties. I would hate for you to have to drink a whole beer at one time just to get a little piece of aluminum.

Earl :-)

Geebuz - thanx for the tip m8

I just knew if I had to get mekanikle with it - she was gunna regret it..

got beer cans aplenty - just need a new bolt...

cheers m8

let ya know how it goes

phark
 
Glad you've saved empties. I would hate for you to have to drink a whole beer at one time just to get a little piece of aluminum.

Earl :-)


empties be beggerd - it could take 5 or 6 cans to find the right one....:-\"
 
I just realized that this is in the "Technical Info" section....thank goodness! That means the topic isn't about what I was afraid it was about!!! LOL
 
I just realized that this is in the "Technical Info" section....thank goodness! That means the topic isn't about what I was afraid it was about!!! LOL

no - that lever is healing just fine thank you very much...



although I did get a hightensile bolt to replace the stripped stainless left by the PO

all I gotta do now is get to the bottom of the carton to find the perfect can....;)
 
... all I gotta do now is get to the bottom of the carton to find the perfect can....;)

Just as you always find what you've lost in the last place you look, the perfect can will be the last beer in the carton...;)
 
thx Earl

thx Earl

Just as you always find what you've lost in the last place you look, the perfect can will be the last beer in the carton...;)

you are so right m8....


ya know I had to finish meh last 6 cans of beer only to find the perfect fit was in fact a can of Bundy Rum...

what was I thinking...

sillyness aside

Thx Earl m8... =D>

  • split the gap a treat
  • threw the bundy can sleeve in there - pressed it a lil
  • cranked the new hightensile bolt up with a lil lock tight
looks to have grabbed really well and looks tidy

wont know till I get it out for a ride... bit dark now incase I got it a lil wrong and the thing drops of anyway lol...
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gr8 that you guyz in the know reply to these lil probs as well as the more techincal stuff...

cheers


Phark
 
Last edited:
Thx Steve m8... =D>

  • split the gap a treat
  • threw the bundy can sleeve in there - pressed it a lil
  • cranked the new hightensile bolt up with a lil lock tight
looks to have grabbed really well and looks tidy
Phark


Must have searched for one to many cans....it was Earl that posted yer answer #-o;)
 
you are so right m8....


ya know I had to finish meh last 6 cans of beer only to find the perfect fit was in fact a can of Bundy Rum...

what was I thinking...

sillyness aside

Thx Earl m8... =D>

  • split the gap a treat
  • threw the bundy can sleeve in there - pressed it a lil
  • cranked the new hightensile bolt up with a lil lock tight
looks to have grabbed really well and looks tidy

wont know till I get it out for a ride... bit dark now incase I got it a lil wrong and the thing drops of anyway lol...
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gr8 that you guyz in the know reply to these lil probs as well as the more techincal stuff...

cheers


Phark

Must have searched for one to many cans....it was Earl that posted yer answer


you sure your noot the one drinkin....:-\" O:) :lol:
 
Good Humor! Now, back to the serious issue at hand for just a moment...

Does the shift lever go all the way on to the shaft before tightening the bolt or does the unwanted bend prevent this?

If it DOES go all the way on, in addition to the fix already suggested you might also want to drill a small hole through the center of the entire assembly (once it's properly assembled) and put a cotter pin through it to prevent it from working its way back toward the bent part (much like the cotter pins on the axles keep the nut from backing out).

It probably got bent in the first place by many hard shifts while it was sitting half on and half off the shaft. We certainly don't want that to happen again! A well placed cotter pin will act as a safety in case the other fix degrades over time...

Good Luck!

Now back to our regularly scheduled Hi-Jinx!:lol::wink:
 
By the way, you asked what caused the "valley" in the back of the splined shaft ... on my bike (and every GS I've seen) the "valley" is machined all the way around the shaft at that point, and on my bike the shift lever bolt is in the rear ... not the front, so I'm guessing your shaft is supposed to be that way (although it obviously shouldn't be bent)... Do you know if that is an OEM shift lever?

Regards,
 
What did that shift lever come from ?
With the fold away tip eh?


My S has the shift lever going to a reverse linkage, up and over
then to the actual lever..........with out the fold away tip.


Oh and good idea keeping it covered in oil and grease, that way it won't rust :-\"
 
Good Humor! Now, back to the serious issue at hand for just a moment...

Does the shift lever go all the way on to the shaft before tightening the bolt or does the unwanted bend prevent this?

If it DOES go all the way on, in addition to the fix already suggested you might also want to drill a small hole through the center of the entire assembly (once it's properly assembled) and put a cotter pin through it to prevent it from working its way back toward the bent part (much like the cotter pins on the axles keep the nut from backing out).

It probably got bent in the first place by many hard shifts while it was sitting half on and half off the shaft. We certainly don't want that to happen again! A well placed cotter pin will act as a safety in case the other fix degrades over time...

Good Luck!

Now back to our regularly scheduled Hi-Jinx!:lol:

thx Steve m8

it slides on just fine and seems to be fixed pretty tight now - about to head for work in an hour so I'll find out if it has any paly after some highway shifting...

the shaft is appears to small for any sizelarge enough for a codder pin - but I like the idea of drilling one big enough to whack a split pin in...


By the way, you asked what caused the "valley" in the back of the splined shaft ... on my bike (and every GS I've seen) the "valley" is machined all the way around the shaft at that point, and on my bike the shift lever bolt is in the rear ... not the front, so I'm guessing your shaft is supposed to be that way (although it obviously shouldn't be bent)... Do you know if that is an OEM shift lever?

Regards,

Yeah - I get the valley/spline design/prupose - just dont know how it could get bent forward like that - perhaps it was pulled off a truck poorly and hung on to the lever at some stage - or likely the PO rather than fix the slippage properly smashed it forward thinking it would lock the lever on... (my kind of mechanic - only two tools - a big hammer and a bigger hammer)

as for what the lever belongs too originally - no idea

What did that shift lever come from ?
With the fold away tip eh?


My S has the shift lever going to a reverse linkage, up and over
then to the actual lever..........with out the fold away tip.


Oh and good idea keeping it covered in oil and grease, that way it won't rust :-\"


hahaha - yeah the bits I dont protect with grease and oil are covered with dust n dirt to protect them from harmful elements like soap n water...

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thx to everyone fur their comments - gunna give it a thrash and see what falls off

beby99 said:
Must have searched for one to many cans....it was Earl that posted yer answer #-o:wink:

hahaha - perhaps I did over achieve in that particular part selection- grateful of course to both Steve and Earl for pondering my lil problem...
 
Perhaps you guys define them differently than we do, but here in the U.S. a cotter pin IS a split pin...

Here's a Wikipedia link to our definition...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cotter_pin

Regards,


ahh - well Im no mechanic but I have generally known cotter pins to be this kind found on push bike pedals

cotter-pin-set.jpg


http://www.hiwheel.com/site_graphics/accessories/cotter-pin-set.jpgand these generally referred to as split pins

pin.jpg


but whats in a name the advice was all good

cheers

Phark
 
well alls good and holding tight...

actually feel slack for not having done it sooner - absolutely no play in the lever at all whcih Im getting used to

gr8 stuff

Im sure you guyz know how to find these things cheaper than meh - but since I found em thought I would post them...

standard gear levers

http://www.oldbikebarn.com/part.php?id=8394&subcategory=Shift Levers&bike=&DisplayPerPage=20

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUZU...00QQihZ012QQitemZ220036834106QQrdZ1QQtcZphoto

dont know why my set up is a lil different to yours keith although Im gunna have a good look through this bike soon and start trying to match chassi and engine numbers etc etc...

Im not the sort of bloke that wants an S on it unless it is one - who knows what the PO has done although I thought he was a pretty str8 up bloke - he was about most of it... but there appears to be a bit of creative repair work here and there over the years...

cheers

Phark
 
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