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Picked up 2 1982 GS1100's. Running issues

  • Thread starter Thread starter irishluck
  • Start date Start date
I

irishluck

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So I got 2 1982 gs1100's from my uncle.

One fully does run but hasn't run in about a year.
The other is for parts.

So I took the carbs apart and did some minor cleaning, made sure jets were clean and what not.
Installed the carbs back on and had to use starter fluid to get it fired up.

Now using starter fluid is the only way I can get it running.
But when it is running, it will not rev up all the way. This is even after I let it sit for about 5 minutes to warm it up.

Any ideas?


BTW im using an auxiliary tank and I have not put the filter box back on the bike yet.
 
Filter box is part of the deal with most these machines fuelling as is the exhaust. I'd try putting it back on and make sure all the boots are sealed up, both sides of the carbs.
 
irishluck said:
So I got 2 1982 gs1100's from my uncle.

One fully does run but hasn't run in about a year.
The other is for parts.

So I took the carbs apart and did some minor cleaning, made sure jets were clean and what not.
Installed the carbs back on and had to use starter fluid to get it fired up.

Now using starter fluid is the only way I can get it running.
But when it is running, it will not rev up all the way. This is even after I let it sit for about 5 minutes to warm it up.

Any ideas?


BTW im using an auxiliary tank and I have not put the filter box back on the bike yet.
Click to expand...

This is the reason why. These bikes will not run without a completely sealed airbox installed.
 
My 850 starts and runs without an airbox installed. It ran pretty good before I got the lids sealed up properly. It runs much better with it right, but it's not a deal breaker that it won't run.
 
I had a feeling it was something like that BUT ive seen some pictures of these bikes using pod filters. Do you guys know how this is bypassed?
 
Hm alright. Well since you guys say that is prolly the issue I will give it a try and put the air box back on and see what happens
 
Two other things that are also likely culprits:
1. you say you cleaned the jets, how about all the tiny little passages between them? You can't just spray them out, the carbs have to be dipped (soaked) overnight and new o-rings installed.
2. have you checked valve clearances? Tight valves usually show up as hard starting, especially when cold.

I agree, the missing airbox will not keep the bike from running. In fact, you should be able to start it just fine. Where you will have problems is when you try to use the throttle to get above "fast idle" speed. If you want to check throttle response, fold a shop rag in half, drape it over the carb intakes, clamp it around the outer throats so it is still somewhat taut over the inner ones. That will give you enough throttle response to go for a test ride around the block, but it is not good enough for jetting assessments.

.
 
irishluck said:
So I got 2 1982 gs1100's from my uncle.

One fully does run but hasn't run in about a year.
The other is for parts.

So I took the carbs apart and did some minor cleaning, made sure jets were clean and what not.
Installed the carbs back on and had to use starter fluid to get it fired up.

Now using starter fluid is the only way I can get it running.
But when it is running, it will not rev up all the way. This is even after I let it sit for about 5 minutes to warm it up.

Any ideas?


BTW im using an auxiliary tank and I have not put the filter box back on the bike yet.
Click to expand...

Guys, read and you'll see that it's not that it wont run, but won rev all the way. It will never rev all the way with the airbox off and stock jetting. Period.

Now as for the hard starting, then that could very well be valve not adjusted or carbs still dirty.
 
WEll I've got to say, the air box did the job, she starts right up now!
Very excited!

But now I've got another issue. Only the right 2 cylinders are firing. (used a temp gun). The firing ones reached 180* and the left 2 cylinders were only at 70*.
I sprayed it down earlier with water to clean some dirt off and I think some water might have gotten on the coil.
Going to let it dry and see what happens and test the plugs to see whats going on.

Also discovered an exhaust leak I'm going to have to fix as well.

Anyone know what ohm these coils are? I've got some 3 ohm dyna coils that im going to put on if they'll work.
 
The 3-ohm Dynas will work just fine. Be careful, though, on some bikes, the connections to the coil inputs are REAL close to the frame and will ground out.

Do you have anything like WD-40 available? It disperses water and will dry out your electrical system.

About the left two cylinders: do you have the correct plug wires in place? The lead to #1 should come from the same coil as the one for #4. Another possibility is "carb sync". If the adjustment between carbs 2 & 3 is off, the left two carbs simply aren't opening at the same time as the right two.

.
 
just to make it idle properly on all 4 cylinders there is no need for the airbox -it is a waste of time - mid range and above is a different story/ air box will not effect the lean idle drop tune nor the synchronization -So you can tune the bottom end running condition without the air box - achieve a smooth idle and then reassemble - mid range and W.O.T. is tuned with the air box fixed in place.

so if you installed it and it made a difference at idle you better recheck the basics. ( fuel spark comp.) ! change the dirty oil and filter too, it effects running condition at idle.

EGT at idle and about 2" from head should be closer to 350 F and even for all 4 cylinders. If it goes over 500 you have more carb tuning / carb body cleaning / ignition timing/ to do. under 200 is not optimal either. you are a long way from needing expert fine tuning advise -- get it popping on all 4 evenly first.


3 ohm will work for your mechanical or electronic ignition needs up to 10K rpm.
 
Okay I started the bike again and this time it was a little harder to start for some reason. Took me about 2 minutes.
I let the bike run until the carbs were empty and shut off.

I checked the plug wires and they are on there right. But cylinder 1 and 2 are still not firing. Cylinder 3 and 4 are running at about 250* now when let run for a few minutes and 1 and 2 are at like 60*

Pulled the plugs out to see if they were getting spark, which they were, but looked slightly wet I guess? Compared to cylinder 3 and 4 plugs, they were wet
 
So you guys think that if the left 2 cylinders arent firing then the carb is not synced up properly correct?
 
Ha nice Rob.

Well right now I need to get all 4 cylinders firing first and im stumped at the moment.

I pulled the carbs off, all 4 carbs still look clean, jets are clear and they all appear to be in sync with each other. Passage ways are clear, Slides are moving. and all 4 carbs had fuel in there bowls.
the #1 and #1 cylinder both were getting spark.

What else do I check now?
 
Here's a pic of the carbs, They look perfectly synced.

Now I will say this. on the #2 card I think? there is a hose that comes off the carb that I know will hook up to the fuel tank. Assuming that this is back pressure to help fuel being pushed through the carb.

But I am using an auxiliary tank at the moment and my fuel tank is off.
Could this be the issue?
 

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The port on #2 is used as a vacuum port to open the vacuum operated petcock. When using an aux fuel tan, you should plug that port.
 
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