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Picked up 2 1982 GS1100's. Running issues

  • Thread starter Thread starter irishluck
  • Start date Start date
No. It would cause #2 to run very lean. There's very little in common between cylinders 1 and 2 that would cause both to not fire. My guess is you have two different things going on here. Fix the known problem and plug up that vacuum line. Then see what you have after that.
 
Thanks for the advice Ray, Ill give that a try and report back with my findings!
 
I've got 4 cylinders firing!

I found a missing screw out of the choke rail for carb #2(which you can see in the pic I posted). I took a set screw from the 2nd gs1100 and put in on, installed everything back on and got 3 cylinders firing.
I then plugged the hose to the petcock that is on carb #2 and the 4th cylinder fired. Now im not sure if me plugging that hose made cylinder 1 fire or if the missing set screw from carb #2 was the cause.

She sounds good!

I think there is some minor adjustments I still need though cause there is a slight backfire going on. Every couple of seconds it pops.
Smoked like crazy too at first cause I had to use a little tranny fluid to put around the rubber hoses to slight the carb onto it.
 
Ill need to get the sync gauge to do that. The one tool ive been needing to get but haven't yet.
And the valve adjustment will be something new, ive never done one before...

Also the exhaust is popping when at idle. Isn't that an indication of running lean? Should I adjust the mixing screw?
 
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Get the valves adjusted before you go any further. Tight valves will have a number of different effects. Any carb sync must be done after the valves are adjusted as well. Where are you located? Maybe a forum member will have a gauge set you can use.
 
Is there a guide on how to do a valve adjustment? Cause I dont see it anywhere in my service manual unless I didnt look in the right place

UPDATE:

I found it in my manual. will update after i check them all out.
 
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I'm going to have to say that there most likely in spec.

The book says that the exhaust and intake need to be between 0.03-0.08mm
The smallest feeler gauge I have is 0.038mm.

Only one valve let me put the gauge through but barely. All the others wouldn't let me put it through.
Unless I really need to go get a feeler gauge rated at 0.03mm, I think these are all within spec, what do you think?

Also, is it okay for me to just use gasket sealer to seal the valve cover back on? My gasket broke when I took the cover off.
 
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I'm going to have to say that there most likely in spec.

The book says that the exhaust and intake need to be between 0.03-0.08mm
The smallest feeler gauge I have is 0.038mm.

Only one valve let me put the gauge through but barely. All the others wouldn't let me put it through.
Unless I really need to go get a feeler gauge rated at 0.03mm, I think these are all within spec, what do you think?

Also, is it okay for me to just use gasket sealer to seal the valve cover back on? My gasket broke when I took the cover off.

All OUT OF SPEC is more like it. You need thinner shims.

Negative on the gasket sealer too. Get a new OEM Suzuki gasket.
 
Agreed. If the feeler gauges wont go through then they're too tight. Tight valves can be a death sentence if not taken care of. Most likely a contributing factor to some of your other issues. Err on the looser side of the spec.
 
Well ****, So if the 0.038 gauge wont go through then there to tight?

Well, what do I do now then? I have no idea how to change a shim. Im sure I could figure it out but what size shims do I get?
Where between 0.03-0.08mm should I most likely be close to?

How would these get to tight anyways?
My uncle who I got these bikes from is best friends with the original owner of this bike. He hasn't ever changed anything like this on the bike.
 
My uncle who I got these bikes from is best friends with the original owner of this bike. He hasn't ever changed anything like this on the bike.

Most likely why the bike is in this condition to start with.

First, let's start off with which model GS1100 you have. Do they have round or rectangular valve cover end caps?
 
Soooo assuming thats bad? lol
Do the shims wear?

How do I know what size I need and what should I really set it to?

Wow, shims are kinda expensive.
$6 each about $48 for all 8
 
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A good valve adjustment is the very FIRST step tuning up a GS. Please take the time and do it right. If you can't afford to buy (or borrow, beg, or steal) the right tools and parts to do it right, then you can't afford to own one. There is a shim club here that allows a person to cut costs immensely. Do a "search" for it.
 
Alright Ill look it up.
I just went ahead and bought the tool off ebay for like $10 to remove the shims.

I just need to know what is a good range that I should have it set to.
 
If this is a 16 valve engine, there are no shims. You measure clearance and adjust with a screw and lock nut on the rocker arm... Download a shop manual and it will outline the procedure. If you do get to the point that you are going to tackle it, make sure the motor is cold as in left in the garage all night... You also might let us know where you live. Members have been know to help each other out when learning...
Curt
 
Again, tell us what year/model 1100 you have. Do you have round or rectangular valve cover end caps. These are the 2 chrome pieces on each end of the valve cover. That could make a huge difference in what is needed to do the valve adjustment.
 
It's a shim bike.

You need to remove each shim one at a time, write down the number (or measure), then put the shim back in. Never turn over an engine with a shim removed.

Once you have an inventory of all the various shims you currently have, then you need to place an order so you have enough to move each valve two shims thinner. As the valve train parts wear the clearance goes down, not up. Eventually the wear caused the valves to hang open and burn. Damaging both the head and valve.

With a little luck you can move some shims around in the engine so you won't need to purchase two for each valve.
 
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