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Pilot screw for GS850GL 1980.. 25 bucks????!!!

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Ok..so I've had idle problems from the beginning but really how long are YOU at idle... but after my trip around the west and comparing notes with other riders I figured I wasted 100's of dollars in gas during this trip at about 30-33mpg (sometimes way worse but never better). So I started reading about carbs on BASSCLIFF'S website. As usual I started where I thought I needed to look rather than taking time to read the whole thing on the various Carb articles. So after I ordered the o ring kit from Robert Barr's cycleoring site I finally looked to see how to adjust idle mixture... and lo and behold I found a broken stainless steel pilot screw (the other 3 were brass and I'm assuming original) I tried to upload a picture but i'm still learning this forum. I looked at the manufacturer's website and they want 24.95 plus shipping for the needle valve... a bit much in my opinion but I thought I would take a ride out to the bone yard to see what he's going to have laying around.

I know I'm going to rebuild these now..but would like to have all the parts I KNOW are going to be replaced before I tear too much apart.
 

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Yes, that's poor mileage, so best to clean carbs properly( following the tutorial) replace o-rings and inspect jet sizes in case some PO got ambitious. That's the idle mixture screw- usually not shown on parts fiches, where did you see it listed? Don't confuse it with pilot jet needle. Boneyard would be good place to look , especially since you have 3 good ones.
 
If you need a pilot screw, why were you pricing needle valves? :-k

I have some extras. PM your address to me, maybe toss a couple bucks in my PayPal account to cover the shipping and you will have one in a few days.

.
 
Steve said:
If you need a pilot screw, why were you pricing needle valves? :-k

I have some extras. PM your address to me, maybe toss a couple bucks in my PayPal account to cover the shipping and you will have one in a few days.

.
Click to expand...

From my car carburetor days.. a needle valve is a needle valve. The pilot screw sure LOOKS like a needle valve to me.. (it's needle shaped..;) at least 3 out of the four are...) I'm going to tear down all the carbs as I've got the o ring pack from Robert now and see what else I'm going to need... with the job the PO did on this one little thing...I can't wait to see how he re-jetted the main jets... I've got the DynoJet pack that he used.. but it looks like it's missing one original(?) #115 jet.... I'll take you up on the PayPal thing ... Thanks...
 
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It is my understanding that in the case of our bikes, the term "needle valve" refers to the float valve that lets the gas into the float bowl.

I could be wrong (again), and it might just be a matter of terminology.

What you have shown has been known by many terms as well, including "mixture adjustment screw", "air screw" and "fuel screw". Of these, only "Mixture adjustment screw" would be anywhere near accurate, but Suzuki calls it the "pilot screw".

.
 
Steve said:
It is my understanding that in the case of our bikes, the term "needle valve" refers to the float valve that lets the gas into the float bowl.

I could be wrong (again), and it might just be a matter of terminology.

What you have shown has been known by many terms as well, including "mixture adjustment screw", "air screw" and "fuel screw". Of these, only "Mixture adjustment screw" would be anywhere near accurate, but Suzuki calls it the "pilot screw".

.
Click to expand...

I don't think you are wrong anywhere in that quote... so far (it started raining here and I had to button things up) I've got my airbox off and the carbs pulled. I'll start complete disassembly tomorrow when the sun comes back out. I'm going to try to take some pictures as I do this... mostly for me..but it seems to entertain the other folks here too..and maybe someone will catch something I might do wrong... :rolleyes:
 
The good: PO changed float bowl screws and diaphragm covers with hexhead stainless steel screws
The bad: PO ruined the ganging screws on both brackets, I had to slot most of the screws to get the carbs unganged.
The real ugly: PO used some type of gasket material on the float bowls that interfered with the float on carb #1 (the one with the broken pilot screw)

TBC tomorrow
 
After full disassembly it seems that the only part that needs replacement is that pilot screw. Sent you PM Steve. Thanks again for that offer.
There are some pictures on my phone of some of the tear down.
 
Uh oh... Have I screwed up the Butterfly valve? I didn't see anywhere that I should disassemble it...after the soak it does not "snap" back into position. I've worked it a bit and shot WD40 up into it. Am I going to have to go back to square one?
 
Also, PO seems to have replaced the stock #115 Main Jet with a #140... the airbox is original (and cleaned and sealed with properly oiled K&N Filter unit) the pipes seem to be about 3 inches shorter than other 850GLs that've seen... I'm guessing I'll that things will improve if I put the #115's back in? I live at 4500 feet above sea level.
 
Most carb tear downs don't show the removal of the butter flies. I am sure its because the original screws are peened into place, so if you remove the screws you will require new ones. The old ones tend to get damaged when removing them. When I did my carbs one of the carbs stopped "snapping" shut too. I just used some penetrating oil, and worked it until it freed up. Then put acouple of drops of 3and1 oil, and worked it a little more.. If it doesn't loosen up then soak the carb body in kerosene, or diesel for awhile, that will clean and lube it up.

Looking forward to hear how you made out on your idle/low mix screws.. After seeing your thread, I played with mine, and only 1 of the 4 screws behaves as it should, so either my screws are messed (which they looked okay), or the screw seats have been damaged...


Shawn.
 
Uncamitzi said:
Also, PO seems to have replaced the stock #115 Main Jet with a #140... the airbox is original (and cleaned and sealed with properly oiled K&N Filter unit) the pipes seem to be about 3 inches shorter than other 850GLs that've seen... I'm guessing I'll that things will improve if I put the #115's back in? I live at 4500 feet above sea level.
Click to expand...


Hope they don't mind an external link here, but this site talks about jetting and altitude.

http://www.4strokes.com/tech/howtojet.asp
 
Ok...some of you old hands may have seen this post coming. How do I get the broken tip of the pilot screw out...?? before you send me here I've been there... it doesn't seem to apply to BS32 carbs.. point me to where this (undoubtedly) has come up before. the search I've done is pretty convoluted... Thanks




Edit: ...ok...now i've figured out the angle... I can get the awl on it... practice makes perfect....:rolleyes:
 
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Practice with no results can also make you crazy!!!! ...ok... it's not coming out and I'm afraid I'm going to make the hole far to big by my slips with sharp pointy things...I've tried heating with my heat gun and cooling with liquid air..poking and prodding ... I'm going to go mow the lawns and think about this.....
 
Uncamitzi said:
Uh oh... Have I screwed up the Butterfly valve? I didn't see anywhere that I should disassemble it...after the soak it does not "snap" back into position. I've worked it a bit and shot WD40 up into it. Am I going to have to go back to square one?
Click to expand...
sounds like shaft seals may be swelled..they are available thru suzuki..at least on my 81 650...
Depending on WHAT you used to dip them, the shaft seals could be swelled and/or ruined. I use Chemdip PROFESSIONAL 5 gallon bucket and learned the hard way.. the Professional stuff will swell the seals overnight and make the shaft seize. Upon removal, my seals were VERY swollen and totally ruined.. maybe other dip like the walmart stuff is not as reactive but I no longer soak carbs for more than 1 hour at most and it cleans them very nice. the other dips should probably go 24 hours??? but if your seals are bad, then you will need to replace 'em. that involves use of the CORRECT screwdriver to get the peened screws out. I re-used the screws with red locktite on the one I had to do....
 
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I did use the wallmart chemdip. but that's not my problem right now... I'm still trying to get the pilot valve tip out of the throttle body. Might just start looking for a new throttle body... #1 BS32
 
Uncamitzi said:
Might just start looking for a new throttle body... #1 BS32
Click to expand...

You should have let me know sooner. :-k

I could have tossed one in with the pilot screw I sent you.

Just to be sure, though, you are calling #1 the one under your clutch hand?

.
 
Steve said:
You should have let me know sooner. :-k

I could have tossed one in with the pilot screw I sent you.

Just to be sure, though, you are calling #1 the one under your clutch hand?

.
Click to expand...
Yes... #1 the one on the far left as the rider sits. However... I'm going to try a tool I've devised after some thought and banging my head against the walls. What do you think..?? the point will be epoxied to the the base plate of the clamp...the clap fits directly over the pilot screw hole. I will apply a light pressure at first and hit it with penetrating oil.. I've sharpened the awl end and test fitted into the open hole on one of the other, non-jammed pilot screw ports (inside the throttle body). I'm too bleary eyed to do it tonight so I'll try this tomorrow .. I have high hopes.... but may be sending you another PM... IMAG0070[1].jpg
 
Ta friggin DA!.... IMAG0077[1].jpg It took a bit more engineering on the tool to get it out but I got it
 
Removed broken pilot screw with home built tool

Removed broken pilot screw with home built tool

IMAG0076[1].jpg ok...and now on with the rebuild... I got the screw today Steve... I don't think I'll need that throttle body now:D
 
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