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play/wiggle in clutch primary gear - is it ok? also hairline cracks on clutch disk

Andrew Vanis

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
So have a wobble in #1 "gear, primary driven"and #11 "disk,clutch pre" has some fine cracks

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Suzuki/Motorcycle/1981/GS750L/CLUTCH/parts.html
(btw - is there a place where to get schematics that end in .jpg so we can link here easily?)

also wondering about the ridges on the primary gear

bike has 14k mi, I put on the last 6k mi with easy riding. Had strong springs in there for the last 3k? miles. previous springs were shorter than spec. strong springs are longer than spec. ordered and will install OEM spec springs.

with strong springs the rear wheel spun when elevated and idle was affected when in 1st gear and stopped with clutch engaged - more so when engine cold. I spec'ed the drive and driven plates and they are in spec and not warped.

thoughts?


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Those "cracks" are normal. I think they are more molding marks than actual cracks but regardless, don't worry.

Notches in the basket are normal too. If they get too deep the clutch discs can hang up on them but what you have going on there shouldn't be a problem.

It's also normal for there to be some play between the basket and the driven gear. That play can cause noise at idle and worst case, the hub can blow apart under power. It's mostly the bigger bikes that have the grenading hub issues though, not the 750's. For the bigger bikes you can buy heavy duty springs and back plate kits. Not sure about the 750 though.
 
Agreed. Everything looks and sounds perfectly normal to me as well.

Those marks are sometimes called casting flow marks, and they've been the cause of many a worried/angry/despondent post on many motorcycle forums.

Install new OEM clutch springs (these sag over the years, but the "heavy duty" aftermarket springs are way too stiff) and rock on.

GS clutch plates and fibers are nearly indestructible and usually last the life of the bike unless you do something really stupid and/or drag race.
 
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GS clutch plates and fibers are nearly indestructible and usually last the life of the bike unless you do something really stupid and/or drag race.

yeah, that makes me wonder since the fibers are non-oem put on by PO.

Any comment on the 'dragging' clutch issue I described?
 
I'm not so sure those worn notches are not part of a dragging issue. I have certainly seen worse notes but those might be big enough to have an effect on how the clutch works. File them out and see if it gets smoother and releases better.
 
For the ultimate in smooth clutch action, when you change your springs, also get an OEM clutch cable. An aftermarket cable will feel just as smooth (at first), but will not last as long as OEM.
 
For the ultimate in smooth clutch action, when you change your springs, also get an OEM clutch cable. An aftermarket cable will feel just as smooth (at first), but will not last as long as OEM.
or convert it to hydraulic clutch :cool:
 
On my first GS1000 I removed the clutch hub back plate and added shims on the stock hub springs, and then welded the stock back plate back on. There was no more rattle noise but otherwise the bike felt same as before the mod.

Another bike I bought had heavy duty clutch hub springs and back plate, and that bike has great clutch feel, and of course no noise either. It's a worthy mod if you plan on keeping the bike around for a long time.
 
OK, That's the best reason.

Maybe I need one on my 550/675 after all.


Did you convert one from another motorcycle or make the whole thing from scratch?
 
yeah, that makes me wonder since the fibers are non-oem put on by PO.

Any comment on the 'dragging' clutch issue I described?

I've tried Barnett and EBC clutch plates...and they do feel more grabby/notchy than stock. May even damage the basket
more than stock, with dents, don't know for sure.
Currently running FBG (Fast by Gast) fibers, with original steels. Seems fine, its been a while since I had stock fibers.
 
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