That's interesting...is the cylinder at 90 psi the one causing you some problems with not firing?
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That's interesting...is the cylinder at 90 psi the one causing you some problems with not firing?
M
Markyd
Guest
It has not been sitting long, and yep that's the cylinder that's causing the trouble the low compression one. Exhaust valve being the issue, causing the cracking banging as fuel drips into the exhaust. Work under way.
A
Anonymous
Guest
I had the same problem with #3 on my 550. Re-shimmed now it idles great. Fingers crossed for ya mate! Did you do a wet test to confirm it's not the rings?
Please expound on your findings leading you to that exhaust valve. Will be good info for the files.
A
Anonymous
Guest
It was the intake actually.
I was having trouble getting my non-runner to idle.
Compression test results were: Dry: 130, 130 ,90, 130. Wet: 160, 160, 120, 160
Turns out there was no clearance on my #3 intake valve, dropped in a shim two sizes smaller and the lash was spot on.
Now she idles great and all cylinders are firing nicely, compression 130 all round.
Fried my condensers in the process (forgot to ground my plugs the second time round). Whenever I rush things I always end up making more work for myself.
A lesson learned at a cost of ?8, bargain!
My petcock just emptied a 1/4 tank into the sump overnight! While changing the oil I noticed the underside of my 4-1 was like swiss cheese (should have taken some pics, sorry).
Wrapped it today and the difference is unbelievable! Not only does it sound better but my throttle response is greatly improved (I had lag on the increase when I snapped it back before).
Only thing left to do now is shim up my needles. (this is what I had thought the cause of the lag was as it was only evident when I snaped to more than 1/4 throttle)
Any advise on how many mm I should raise it? I've paired k&n's and a 4:1 header. I've raised my pilots from 40 to 42.5 and mains from 97.5 to 105. I was going to start with 2mm up. (no clip positions, I have CV's, BS32's)
Sorry for the hijack Markyd!
I was having trouble getting my non-runner to idle.
Compression test results were: Dry: 130, 130 ,90, 130. Wet: 160, 160, 120, 160
Turns out there was no clearance on my #3 intake valve, dropped in a shim two sizes smaller and the lash was spot on.
Now she idles great and all cylinders are firing nicely, compression 130 all round.
Fried my condensers in the process (forgot to ground my plugs the second time round). Whenever I rush things I always end up making more work for myself.
A lesson learned at a cost of ?8, bargain!
My petcock just emptied a 1/4 tank into the sump overnight! While changing the oil I noticed the underside of my 4-1 was like swiss cheese (should have taken some pics, sorry).
Wrapped it today and the difference is unbelievable! Not only does it sound better but my throttle response is greatly improved (I had lag on the increase when I snapped it back before).
Only thing left to do now is shim up my needles. (this is what I had thought the cause of the lag was as it was only evident when I snaped to more than 1/4 throttle)
Any advise on how many mm I should raise it? I've paired k&n's and a 4:1 header. I've raised my pilots from 40 to 42.5 and mains from 97.5 to 105. I was going to start with 2mm up. (no clip positions, I have CV's, BS32's)
Sorry for the hijack Markyd!
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M
Markyd
Guest
That's cool, I shall give an update hopefully over this weekend, the valve is guna be replaced, the plug was wet.
M
Markyd
Guest
Another update, bent crankshaft, more work, more money, more hassle..
M
Markyd
Guest
Please enlighten me tom, I won't be doing the repair.
How did you diagnose the bent crankshaft. Is it just a throw that rotated on it's pin? Cranks car be repaired and used cranks can be found all day long on ebay.
The cranks in our bikes are roller bearing cranks that are pieced together with pressed components. They can be thrown out of alignment and cause what you're seeing. Later years (1983+) the factory put welds on the higher HP larger displacement engines to keep this from happening. You never did say what year/model your bike is?
The cranks in our bikes are roller bearing cranks that are pieced together with pressed components. They can be thrown out of alignment and cause what you're seeing. Later years (1983+) the factory put welds on the higher HP larger displacement engines to keep this from happening. You never did say what year/model your bike is?
M
Markyd
Guest
Head off- cylinders 2&3 equal at tdc, cylinders 1&4 unequal at tdc. Crankshafts are on ebay, but no garantee that they are pure.