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Pod air filter question (not jetting question)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
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Anonymous

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Ok, i got a GS1100 (think its the E) a few days ago. she is the 1980, with a flaring. The only thing i have to complain about so far is that the weather is crap, so i can't break myself into this bike (my old ride is a CM400A).

all that having been said, i can see two problems with the bike, the first is that the choke is frozen up so it's a small act of god, or a great act for me to pull it in/out. But thats not realy the point of this, getting a new cable so life should be good.

What i want to know is what people think of pod air filters. good increase in power, dose it turn the bike into a gas hog (with proper adjustments) and other thoughts on them.

The reason i ask is that I saw that my bike dose not have an air filter box, just the 4-1 intake. When i looked at bikebandit for the price, i decided that the pods were as expensive or less (including jetting). Even if it were more money I thought that the change would have some other payoff for me. When i looked here i see most people being rather conservative about pod filters, so i wanted to know if anyone had something good to say about them on one of the gs1100 or 1150 specificaly. info from other bike is welcome also.


Thanks

MarK "Q" Tanner
 
the jetting change could be mild, or it could be more extreme. some people reccomend raising the needle a clip, and going with a bigger main jet. i dont have it here with me, but i could get you some numbers for jet sizes to try, from a vance and hines thing i have. usually on bigger engines they step the pilot jet and main jet up a few sizes.

i'm not sure if anyone here has gotten away with going to pods and just playing with the mixture screw....

~AOD
 
Re: Pod air filter question (not jetting question)

quakeholio said:
Ok, i got a GS1100 (think its the E) a few days ago. she is the 1980, with a flaring. The only thing i have to complain about so far is that the weather is crap, so i can't break myself into this bike (my old ride is a CM400A).

all that having been said, i can see two problems with the bike, the first is that the choke is frozen up so it's a small act of god, or a great act for me to pull it in/out. But thats not realy the point of this, getting a new cable so life should be good.

What i want to know is what people think of pod air filters. good increase in power, dose it turn the bike into a gas hog (with proper adjustments) and other thoughts on them.

The reason i ask is that I saw that my bike dose not have an air filter box, just the 4-1 intake. When i looked at bikebandit for the price, i decided that the pods were as expensive or less (including jetting). Even if it were more money I thought that the change would have some other payoff for me. When i looked here i see most people being rather conservative about pod filters, so i wanted to know if anyone had something good to say about them on one of the gs1100 or 1150 specificaly. info from other bike is welcome also.


Thanks

MarK "Q" Tanner
If your choke is similar to mine, pull up the rubber dust cover and turn the knurled plastic adjuster ring counter-clockwise a little. If the choke shaft is being pinched too much by the adjuster, this will fix the sticking problem. The choke cable should have 2-3mm of slack in it.
As for pods, properly re-jetted, they WILL increase performance. However, they work much better with a quality 4-1 pipe. Also, you may have to buy a jet kit to get the stock carbs running properly. These jet kits generally are designed with BOTH pods and a 4-1 pipe in mind. If your bike has adjustable jet-needles you may get away with buying only larger main/pilot jets. With or without a pipe, you MUST re-jet the needle and main jet circuits and make adjustments to your mixture screws.
If you correctly re-jet, you can expect about 3 mpg loss in gas mileage.
If you buy a jet kit ($120?) and pipe, and have patience with the jetting, I recommend the change.
 
Pod filters can be adapted to work quite well. But it will take a lot more time and effort than putting on an airbox.
 
Maybe someone here still has that part of the airbox laying around taking up space in their garage?
 
Mostly what i want is what people that run pod filters think of them. I've read alot about re-jetting, and know that will have to be done. As to going in one direction or another, this is the direction that i am headed in. Mostly if people that do not have it do not like it, i can still turn around now, but i still have some invested in this, but i can still bail with little loss, but would rather keep going.

thanks all.

Mark "Q" Tanner
 
I like K&N chrome ovals. I like the performance gain, I like the look, and it's a lot easier if you need to remove the carbs. Without the stock airbox, it's easier to service the battery. If you maintain them well, the K&N's will last forever.
 
robinjo said:
Maybe someone here still has that part of the airbox laying around taking up space in their garage?

I have the entire air filter box for the gs1100e . Its a chain drive (((E)))
drive if it is diferent
i took it out and now I can easily check the battery water. I used some tin and solder to make an adapter for the K&N replacement for the original f you are an oem or neat freak than something much more sanitary can be fabricated. I need to be able to get at my battery without dismantling the whole bike.
 
The biggest restriction on the standard bike is the exhaust. Unless you change that not much point in going for the pods. With an exhaust the pods make sense, but everyones tuning experince is different. Sometimes you can get it right easily, sometime it takes a while.
 
I have pods and pipe on my '83 and I like the looks, seat of the pants feel of more power, easy access to carbs. On the negative side I've encountered problems riding in hard driving rain with the bike losing power which I attribute to water injestion from the pods.
 
i can back moto dan up on this one, water injestion in heavy rain can become problematic when running pods, so just don't ride in heavey rain. otherwise i am happy with my pods and the things they do.

ryan
 
i have Emgo pods on mine...they dont require oiling like K&N, nor is there paper to get wet...i've ridden in the rain quite a few times, without problems. the only time i noticed a water problem, was after i was at the car wash...in a few minutes all the water was burned up, and it ran normal again.

~Adam
 
I'm with Keith on this. Pods and a 4-1 pipe together, otherwise it's not worth the hassle and potential screw-ups of rejetting and readjusting the carbs for the pods, without the pipe.

On the other hand, no doubt about it, a properly set-up, jetted, and balanced set of carbs, with the pods and the 4-1 pipe is the "hot setup". Plus, with pods, it's much eassier to get the carbs on and off, and you get some extra storage room under the seat that you don't have with the stock airbox.

But, its much harder (takes more knowledge, time, money for new jets, etc.) to properly set-up carbs with pods and 4-1 pipe, than running with the factory airbox and stock exhaust. If you just wanna ride, and are happy with OEM factory horsepower and performance (most people are)and you don't want to screw around with getting the jetting just right, then stick with the stock airbox.
 
:D :D :D

I just got the pods last night, and realy dug into the bike today. I couldn't believe how bad getting the 4-1 air box out was. Off with the tank, then the carbs, then the boots. But when i got it all done, i fired my bike up, and took some pride in my work, then i took her out for my first real ride. More in love with that bike now then when i bought it. I can't say that i can compare it to anything, she has the pod filters, the 4-1 exaust, so i have never realy ridden her anyother way.

well, thanks for the info, now i'll take it into the Suzuki dealer in twon and get her rejetted.

Thanks,

Mark "Q" Tanner
 
quakeholio said:
:D :D :D

I just got the pods last night, and realy dug into the bike today. I couldn't believe how bad getting the 4-1 air box out was. Off with the tank, then the carbs, then the boots. But when i got it all done, i fired my bike up, and took some pride in my work, then i took her out for my first real ride. More in love with that bike now then when i bought it. I can't say that i can compare it to anything, she has the pod filters, the 4-1 exaust, so i have never realy ridden her anyother way.

well, thanks for the info, now i'll take it into the Suzuki dealer in twon and get her rejetted.

Thanks,

Mark "Q" Tanner
Good luck with your bike. Just a word from experience. Many bike shops idea of installing a jet kit is simply to install it and set it per the jet kits "base settings". The base settings are commonly incorrect. As you said, you really don't know how well this bike can run. An overlean running motor can feel like it has a lot of power, but...
Even if the bike seems to run well, pull the plugs and see what color they are at lower speeds and another read at higher speeds. Don't take the bike shops word for it, see for yourself. The bike should warm up correctly, not ping under load, accelerate without any bogging or flat spots, decelerate with a minumum amount of "popping", have no surging or hesitation, no black exhaust from the pipe, and your mileage should be maybe 2-3 mpg less than stock. If you have any problems with the jetting, let us know.
 
I wouldn't take it to the dealer to get jetted. They will probably just install a jet it at the factory recommended settings which will most likely not be dialed in properly unless they have a dyno and you're willing to pay for their time. Installing a jet kit is easy, tuning it is the hard part. I find that most jet kits are pretty much bang on with the recommended jet sizes but it's the a/f screws and needle height that you're going to have to play with and if you have to take it back to the dealer everytime to have them adjust it for you as you're trying to get it dialed in, it will get expensive. Now that you have the pods on, getting the carbs off is a breeze and once you do get the jets installed, you likely won't have to remove the carbs again as the needles are adjusted from the top and the a/f screws are relatively easy to get at.
 
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