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Pod Filter question....

  • Thread starter Thread starter pnwesside31
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pnwesside31

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I'm going from airbox to Pod Filters, and when I was pulling out the airbox, I noticed a hose that goes from the top of the airbox to the valve covers? I also noticed a hose from the bottom of the air box to nothing. Do I need to plug that hole, filter it, or what am I supposed to do?

Thanks
 
I'm going from airbox to Pod Filters, and when I was pulling out the airbox, I noticed a hose that goes from the top of the airbox to the valve covers? I also noticed a hose from the bottom of the air box to nothing. Do I need to plug that hole, filter it, or what am I supposed to do?

Thanks


Ive always just let it kinda sit there..thats for ventilation...probably wouldnt be a bad idea to put a little filter on the end...
 
Yes, you should filter the breather either at the valve cover or at the end of the hose somewhere you can zip tie it out of harms way.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/KNN-62-1560/?image=large Find a double sided nipple and put this on the end of the hose.

And the tube at the bottom of the air box is just a drain for your airbox and you wont have it once you pull the box out. :)
 
Last edited:
Good luck with the re-jetting!;)
And if you don't bother with the re-jet, good luck with the rebuild. :eek:

In case you did not know, or have not noticed on the board, when changing the intake or exhaust plumbing, it is necessary to re-jet the carbs. :o

.
 
Great....I read it in other posts, but overlooked it. Any suggestions on where to start? I'll definitely start searching asap, but I gotta get a move on it. My gas tank is coming back soon.
 
Any suggestions on where to start?
Well, the FIRST thing you want to do is to figure out what bike you are working on.

The NEXT thing to do is to share that with us.

THEN you need to also share what brand of pods you are installing and whether you have stock exhaust or a header.

After all that, we can make some reasonably intelligent guesses.

.
 
Sorry about that....

-1986 GS450
-EMGO (12-55748/48mm)
-Everything Stock

Thanks
 
Yes, you should filter the breather either at the valve cover or at the end of the hose somewhere you can zip tie it out of harms way.

I've run mine with a hose (zip tied out of "harms way") and without a filter for 20 years. No problems.

Remember the rules: 1) Header? REJET! and/or 2)Pods? REJET!

I have a cracked helmet from a crash 20yrs ago when I put pods on my first gs750 and it ran so wierd (hadn't rejetted yet) I lost it.

With stock exhaust which is much more restrictive than header, and with a relatively unknown brand (at least to me) as far as pods (K&N's are almost as non restrictive as not running anything, for example), my advice at this point is that it should be relatively "safe" to throw the pods on and test the bike. CAREFULLY... realizing it will probably run lean at various points and at various throttle openings.

Weakest link in the chain princible applies here. If the exhaust is too restritive, no amount of added intake capacity will make a difference (as far as power at least).

What is your objective? Are you doing this only for looks? Are you planning to add a header as well? If you want more breathing/power, you will probably need to do a header as well (usually done first by most actually) although I have no experience with gs450s (i had a 400 honda hawk back in the day).
 
Saw this website, and was wondering if this is a good frame of reference:

[FONT=verdana, arial, helvetica]1 jet size for custom 4 into 2 exhaust

2 jet sizes for 4 into 1 exhaust

1 jet size for K&N filter (single inside airbox)

1 jet size for drilling out the bottom of the airbox

2 jet sizes for both single K&N and drilled airbox

2 jet sizes for individual filters

2 jet sizes for no muffler (open header)

1 pilot jet size for every 3 main jet size increase

Add up all the jet size increases and subtract one. (Remember they go in steps of 2.5 for each jet size)

Under a mismatch condition, like individual filters and stock exhaust or 4 into 1 header with stock filter and air box, subtract an additional 1 jet size.

Check plug color often, sync carbs after each jet change, make sure the floats are set correctly, and seriously consider purchasing a Color Tune. (See "Color tuning Carburetors" in the Maintenance Section).

Make sure your carbs are in perfect working order before making jet changes.

Example from my '79 XS1100 F:
Stock main jets: 137.5

Stock pilot jets: 42.5

2 sizes for 4:1 exhaust (Jardine)

1 size for single K&N

1 size for drilled air box

4 (main sizes) - 1 = 3 or 137.5 + (2.5 * 3) = 145.0
1 (pilot jet size) or 42.5 + (2.5 * 1) = 45.0
[/FONT]
 
Saw this website, and was wondering if this is a good frame of reference:

[FONT=verdana, arial, helvetica]1 jet size for custom 4 into 2 exhaust

2 jet sizes for 4 into 1 exhaust

1 jet size for K&N filter (single inside airbox)

1 jet size for drilling out the bottom of the airbox

2 jet sizes for both single K&N and drilled airbox

2 jet sizes for individual filters

2 jet sizes for no muffler (open header)

1 pilot jet size for every 3 main jet size increase

Add up all the jet size increases and subtract one. (Remember they go in steps of 2.5 for each jet size)

Under a mismatch condition, like individual filters and stock exhaust or 4 into 1 header with stock filter and air box, subtract an additional 1 jet size.

Check plug color often, sync carbs after each jet change, make sure the floats are set correctly, and seriously consider purchasing a Color Tune. (See "Color tuning Carburetors" in the Maintenance Section).

Make sure your carbs are in perfect working order before making jet changes.

Example from my '79 XS1100 F:
Stock main jets: 137.5

Stock pilot jets: 42.5

2 sizes for 4:1 exhaust (Jardine)

1 size for single K&N

1 size for drilled air box

4 (main sizes) - 1 = 3 or 137.5 + (2.5 * 3) = 145.0
1 (pilot jet size) or 42.5 + (2.5 * 1) = 45.0
[/FONT]

This may be a half decent place to start out....


But this is the truth:

Plug readings are how you jet carbs.
 
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