T
TheCafeKid
Guest
It looks like part of your emulsion tube is broken off or something. I'd get that carb apart and find out what's going on. If it's not the same, it needs to be.
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...and I am getting the needle jet (pulled it up on microfilm to find it), which is what is missing in the pics below...not an emulsion tube...
Didn't realize the slides were set up much like RS series carbs, my bad.You have to pull the slides to remove the needles. Once you do that, you have to re-synch.
You link goes to a bunch of carb rebuild kits. Don't use those.
According to the stock specs your bike starts out with an 80 main and 15 pilot. Not sure that you need such a huge jump in the main jet size. 17.5 pilots are worth a try.
I see what happened. It went to page 1. I tried to post page 4 of that section.You link goes to a bunch of carb rebuild kits. Don't use those.
According to the stock specs your bike starts out with an 80 main and 15 pilot. Not sure that you need such a huge jump in the main jet size. 17.5 pilots are worth a try.
Just guessing, mind you, but if your bike came with 90 mains, and you now have pods and baffle-less 4-into-2 pipes. you will probably need something in the 100-110 range for your mains. Only your spark plugs will tell you for sure, when you do your plug chops.
Your idle mixture could be a problem. Try running the pilot fuel screw (the one on the bottom) about 1 full turn out from lightly seated. Set the air screw (the one on the side) double that for a starting point, then tweak it for best idle when the engine is warm.
Of course, this assumes that the carbs are clean and the intake boot o-rings are in good shape.
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That would be the "idle speed adjustment" screw.Let me ask this......SHould the, don't know if I'm calling this the right thing, throttle screw on top of the carbs always have some pressure to adjust idle?