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POD filters, to oil or not ??

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
G

Guest

Guest
First off, the specifics:

1981 GS1100E (all maintenance up to date)
K&N Pods (oiled)
4:1 pipe
Stage 3 Dynojet kit
DJ-138 mains
47.5 pilots
Jet needles on 3rd notch from bottom
Carbs synced & mixture screws set a bit rich
​
Bike ran quite well with the above set-up, pulled like a train through redline, but bogged a little at the lower RPM?s (<4K), moderate popping on de-accel? I know it was running rich, plugs were dark but not sooty.

My issue is whenever I clean & re-oil my POD filters, it seems I screw up the fuel/air ratio for a bit. I try to use the oil sparingly, but inevitably it runs like crap afterwards.

So I thought maybe I?ll just NOT oil them the next time, and that?s what I?ve done.

Without the POD?s oiled, Bike starts & runs well but I can?t get past approx. 7K RPM without hitting the wall.

I?ve played around with the jet needles & currently have them one notch lower than before (now at 2 notches from bottom). Bike pulls VERY hard to 7K RPM but I can?t get past that 7K wall.

No, I haven?t done plug chops, nor have I increased the main jet size ? and of course the PODs are still not oiled. Logic dictates that more air in should mean larger main jets are needed, but I thought I would throw this out there for you guys to comment on.

Is anyone here not oiling their pods? What kind of set-up works for you?

TIA

Mike
 
You went the wrong way on the needle. You need to lean it buy lowering the needle by putting the clip closer to the top.
The redline thing worries me since that usually indicates main jet.
 
chef1366 said:
You went the wrong way on the needle. You need to lean it buy lowering the needle by putting the clip closer to the top.
The redline thing worries me since that usually indicates main jet.
Click to expand...

Thanks Bill - I did that first (4th notch from the bottom) & it ran lousy; sputtering off idle...

I was going to try upping the mains - the next size up from the current DJ-138 is Mikuni 132.5, then 135. Which one do you think will work best?
 
tkent02 said:
The oil is there to catch dirt.


Up to you.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I know - I'm not travelling any dirt roads out here, but I may simply go back to my original set-up if I can't get this sorted after a few attempts...
 
You need the oil on the filters otherwise you will be putting new valves and rings in that thing from all the dirt getting through.
 
jbthomp said:
You need the oil on the filters otherwise you will be putting new valves and rings in that thing from all the dirt getting through.
Click to expand...

Yes, well... those pod filters are not exactly stopping stuff at the micron level. They are great rock catchers though!
 
hikermikem said:
Yes, well... those pod filters are not exactly stopping stuff at the micron level. They are great rock catchers though!
Click to expand...

You would be surprised at how well they stop small dust particles when they are oiled correctly per instructions. Dry, they don't do so well. You should oil them correctly, then take the time and trouble to jet them correctly. Taking shortcuts will wear your engine out prematurely.
 
hikermikem said:
Yes, well... those pod filters are not exactly stopping stuff at the micron level. They are great rock catchers though!
Click to expand...

do you live up a long lane?
do you ride on the beach?
do you live in the desert?
do you take long trips across the country?

if you answer NO to all of thee above then...
you don't need no stink-in oil on your K&N's:twistedevil:
 
Rob S. said:
Find a dynamometer and do it right.
Click to expand...

Explain how "finding a dynamometer" will "do it right".


Tuning a bike with any intake/exhaust/cam modifications is generally a bit time consuming, but if approached with the right tools (i.e. a jetting kit with slotted, tapered needles and quality jets), it usually isn't as frustrating as some people here say.

The most frustrating part about tuning a GS with the stock airbox is pulling and reinstalling the carbs. With the airbox gone, that process is about 100x easier. It is only a matter of starting with the jet kit manufacturer's recommended jets and needle position for your specific setup, then doing a couple plug chops to see where you're at, and adjusting the needles and/or changing out jets as necessary.

I've tuned GSes using pods and an aftermarket exhaust, stock airbox with K&N filter and aftermarket exhaust, stock airbox with K&N filter and stock exhaust, and stock exhaust, stock airbox, and oem filter (some models came from the factory horribly lean). In every case, I purchased a Dynojet jetting kit, followed the instructions, and the process only took anywhere from one to four configurations until I was satisfied with the setup.

No dynamometer needed to "do it right".


As to the original question, yes, you should oil them. do not saturate them with oil, a light squirt or three on the element is all you need.

If you notice a huge change in performance after you oil, you're using too much oil.
 
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Persistence is the only way to get it right , with or without the Dynometer. I have access to a dyno but still do most of my tuning the old fashion way. Unless it is my race bikes or something special. The GS's are not that hard to tune, just time consuming
 
Thanks for all the responses... I appreciate the opinions.

I may have to re-think my "oil or not to oil" decision. I did notice a fair amount of grunge/sediment that was removed from the elements during the pod cleaning process & I guess I really don't want that stuff being sucked up into the engine...

I think I'll give oiling another go, but really concentrate on using the oil sparingly.

As some stated, if the oil is applied lightly, then there shouldn't be a huge change. I'll let you know how it turned out
 
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