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Polaris R/R

  • Thread starter Thread starter mike1414
  • Start date Start date
M

mike1414

Guest
Well guys, I finally got my new Polaris R/R in (took a little over a week - but hard to beat for $79 total), and I am ready to get this thing mounted up so that I can start riding in confidence. That being said, I know this came highly recommended, which is why I bought it. Everyone makes it seem simple, saying connect the 3 stator wires directly to the R/R. Just wanted to ensure that I was making this clear and simple enough for myself:



On the left is the 3 prongs, on the right, 2 prongs. I wire the 3 stator wires directly to the 3 pronged side by 1) removing the plastic part to the plug, and rigging it, or 2) using disconnects to slide each wire onto each prong individually?

As far as the 2-pronged plug, I connect it as normal as well?

Forgive me if this is a dumb post, I have just been having charging problems since I got the bike, and I am ready to take her down the open road without having to count my mileage until my battery dies. Thanks in advance for any help!

- Mike
 
You have it.

The two prongs on picture right are positive and negative, so make sure you get those wired correctly. There should have been a sticker on one showing polarity. If it didn't come with, somebody can look it up. I think there is a photograph on roadstercycle showing that.
 
Personally, I would either use spade connectors and push them on the terminals or get the proper connectors and splice that onto your stator wires.

When you get to the side with the two terminals, the terminal closer to the stator wires is the + terminal, the one farther away is the - terminal.

.
 
Hi Steve,
How opportune for me as I am also at this stage. Please finish the thought on the wiring for us. The + & - connect directly to the battery? What to do with the factory wiring that normally connect to the fuse box?

Thanks,
 
rlloydl said:
Hi Steve,
How opportune for me as I am also at this stage. Please finish the thought on the wiring for us. The + & - connect directly to the battery? What to do with the factory wiring that normally connect to the fuse box?

Thanks,
Click to expand...
Avoid wiring this way, you're asking for eventual trouble as the original main fuse will now carry close to its max amp rating all the time that bike runs (up to time it doesn't and bike shuts off) ; go here, ponder posplayr's explanation


http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1913839&postcount=28
 
Yes, the stock wiring scheme is best, as long as it's in good condition. The output of the R/R should connect to the stock red wire in the harness. The negative terminal of the R/R should be connected to your 'single-ground' connection point and, ultimately, to the battery.

.
 
Perfect timing Mike1414, mine is sitting in the post office today and gonna pick it up after work!
 
triumph harness

triumph harness

Search forums for Triumph harness. It's only about $9 at the dealer. Solder that to your stator leads and factory harness, then plug it right up. Perfect fit.
 
jsandidge said:
Search forums for Triumph harness. It's only about $9 at the dealer. Solder that to your stator leads and factory harness, then plug it right up. Perfect fit.
Click to expand...
I already have my Triumph adapter, but it sure would be nice to know what Trimuph model it comes on, so I can look it up for the next bike.

.
 
since the forum was down for updates, i ended up finding the info on a triumph forum. the inside one on the 2 pin connector goes to + and the outside pin goes to the -. for those i went straight to the battery
 
60ratrod said:
since the forum was down for updates, i ended up finding the info on a triumph forum. the inside one on the 2 pin connector goes to + and the outside pin goes to the -. for those i went straight to the battery
Click to expand...
Did you change any other wiring? :-k

As noted above, the function of your MAIN fuse has now changed. It will be handling the entire load of the bike ALL THE TIME.

Just in case you have not examined your wiring diagram and charging system, in the original configuration, the MAIN fuse only handles the load of the bike when you first turn the key ON, before starting the bike. Once the engine is running, the charging system will be doing as much as it can (its output is dependant on engine speed) to carry the load. Once its output is enough to satisfy the needs of the bike, any excess will be pumped back the other way through the MAIN fuse to charge the battery.

The load of the headlights and the coils is less than 15 amps, which is usually handled directly by the charging system and any excess (usually no more than 5-7 amps) will go back through the fuse to charge the battery. Since you have re-directed your R/R output to the battery, all 15 amps will flow through the MAIN fuse all the time.

Good luck with that. I hope you at least installed an in-line fuse between the R/R and the battery. :-k

.
 
everything i saw on here that told ME that i didn't need and inline fuse, and that it is undesired. or maybe that was with the original r/r. well i'll get one tomorrow and get it installed.
 
60ratrod said:
everything i saw on here that told ME that i didn't need and inline fuse, and that it is undesired. or maybe that was with the original r/r. well i'll get one tomorrow and get it installed.
Click to expand...

The original R/R did have a fuse in-line before it got to the battery.

Can't imagine why you would think it's "undesired". If something inside the R/R shorts out, you have nothing but nice, heavy-gauge wire between it and the battery. With the current that it should be able to carry, things are going to get PLENTY warm before something finally releases its smoke.

It is MUCH better to use a fuse as your "smoke safety valve". :lol:

.
 
Steve, this is certainly an unfortunate situation. It appears OP is getting confused about needing some type is fuse between battery and the rest of the system and the practice of wiring r/r directly across the battery which would also Need an inline fuse.

As noted it would really be bad to not end up with a fuse somewhere.

For OP, there are two wiring methods both of which have to have a fuse. In one case (preferred) you us the original wording just clean up the fusebox and connections. You only need a 15 amp main fuse in fusebox.

second method which has been popularized but which is not a sound approach is one where the R/r with in line fuse is attached directly across the battery. In the case the original signal flow is altered and a larger fuse is required. Generally at least a 20 amp and sometimes it has been reported that 25 amp is nesessary.
 
Steve said:
I already have my Triumph adapter, but it sure would be nice to know what Trimuph model it comes on, so I can look it up for the next bike.

.
Click to expand...

Steve, I think the wiring harness T2500676 (Link Lead, Regulator) is for 2007 and later models Triumph Street Triple and Daytona 675's.

Do not mean to hijack this thread, but we are not the only ones to experience problems with the R/R on GS's. Just an interesting bit of information is that Triumph did a recall on their 2007 to 2010 Street Triple and Daytona 675's to replace the original SCR R/R's with MOSFET R/R's, after many R/R's failed. Probable cause of the failures could be that those R/R's are mounted about 2 inches away from the exhaust right behind the engine (those bikes have an undertail exhaust that come up behind the motor and under the seat). On later models the R/R is mounted inside the fairing near the front.
 
chuck hahn said:
Whats the model of the Triumphs the said R/R is for? And whats its part number??
Click to expand...

Triumph, as yet, don't use the series Shindengen reg/rec, but the series one uses the exact connectors of its fore-runners, the MOSFET types, that Triumph actually fit.
 
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