Polishing Clear Coat

[Mop Bucket]

I recently painted my bike and waited 7 days before using rubbing compound and polish. And after what I thought was following the painting guide from in the garage I am left with some very dull ugly parts. Had I known what they would look like crap after polishing I wouldn?t have attempted to polish them.

I used 3M rubbing compound after lightly sanding the clear coat with 2000 grit. The clear went from hazy to dull. I then tried McGuire?s #7 glaze thinking that might shine it up. That helped a little but still looks like crap compared to a fresh clear coat. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks

 

[Dave8338]

I recently painted my bike and waited 7 days before using rubbing compound and polish. And after what I thought was following the painting guide from in the garage I am left with some very dull ugly parts. Had I known what they would look like crap after polishing I wouldn?t have attempted to polish them.

I used 3M rubbing compound after lightly sanding the clear coat with 2000 grit. The clear went from hazy to dull. I then tried McGuire?s #7 glaze thinking that might shine it up. That helped a little but still looks like crap compared to a fresh clear coat. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks

Apply more elbow grease or invest in a die grinder and buffing wheel(s).

 

[Mop Bucket]

Apply more elbow grease or invest in a die grinder and buffing wheel(s).

My problem is that I am not sure where to apply the grease.

Should the rubbing compound make the clear shine or is that after the polish? Here is my confusion and worry, did I get the wrong compound? It says 1200 grit or finer lines. I sanded with 2000 grit paper before using the compound. Should the compound make it shine or dull? Wrong compound?

Last, I think I will do some more sanding on the clear since it was hiding some blemishes. Can I reclear if I sand through or I can't get it to shine as is?

 

[bonanzadave]

What kinda clear ? Most paint shops would tell you a month before wax or polish. If you did a rattle can I think what you spray.....is what you get. Best to use a 2 part (base/activator) clear.

 

[Mop Bucket]

I used NEW SPRAY MAX 2K CLEARCOAT for my clear. This is a two part clear in a can. http://www.spraymax.de/index.php?id=361&L=1

 

[FiremanBob]

First, I don't think seven days is long enough for the pain to fully harden. Second, it sounds like the compound is coarser than your last sandpaper, so I would expect it to dull the finish.

2K grit should bring up some shine - unless the paint was too soft.

 

[Guest]

Probably will polish up if you go with the polish, but don't think you want to use any more rubbing compound. From my experience the rubbing compound will leave it looking dull, just used to smooth imperfections. Good luck, Ray

 

[kdo58]

I used 2k it was so clear and shinny that i just left it alone, other than some wax.

 

[ddaniels]

I use 3M rubbing compound after 2K grit wet sanding as well and always end up with a very shiney outcome. You have to invest some time with both steps. Wet sand until you most, if not all, the orange peel texture out of the paint, but be careful not to go through the clear to the color. That will leave you with a completely dull finish. Time to apply the rubbing compound. It will take some time before the shine comes through so don't get discouraged. It takes some experience to get a "feel" for when the shine is coming out. Just keep rubbing with the compound until it looks like it's starting to shine up. Then, get a clean, soft cloth and buff it out. You'll be amazed at the shine when you finally get it. Just be patient and keep at it. It will shine.

 

[Paul's Zuki]

You need to wet sand the clearcoat. Typically after about 3 days of curing you can start wet sanding. You have to take off all the orange peel texture. Get some 1500 & 2000 grit sandpaper and soak in water real good. then take the 1500 grit and starting rubbing evenly across the surface until you see that the clear is nice and dull with no tiny shiny spots. wash it off then wet sand with the 2000 grit. It will take a little while to get it smooth. after you have accomplished that, then take you medium compound and buff in. if you don't wet sand it doesn't matter how long you compound rub, you won't get that candy clearcoat finish. I just painted a tank & rear fender for my project and it looks damn nice. all rattle can by the way.

 

[wacky941]

Why would you use rubbing compound on something freshly painted?
I've always been told that when you have something painted you are to wait at least thirty days before doing anything to it. If you paid someone to paint parts for you, all of that should have already been done, all that you should have to do is apply a polish after thirty days, rubbing compounds are used to remove imperfections or when you get something on the clear coat that won't clean off through normal procedures.

If the instructions they gave you told you to do all the steps you followed, you might consider taking the parts back to them and tell them that you followed the steps to the "T" and have them make it right.

 

[Dave8338]

Sand it wet with your 2000 grit and then move onto a fine cut buffing compound. Finish off with a swirl mark remover (VERY fine buffing compound) and a wax of your choice.

 

[Mop Bucket]

Great thanks, looks like I have a plan. First stop is the local auto paint store to pick up some buffers for my 10" buffer. Next, sand the night away and then buff the dull ugly clear to a sparkling brilliant orb of reflected sunshine.

What happens if I sand through the clear? Can I spray on top of the clear and showing paint or do I need to sand all the clear off or remove all paint and start again?

 

[Nessism]

First of all, with a 2k clear like you used, waiting 7 days is plenty unless something is seriously wrong with the paint cure (such as you didn't shake up the can or the paint is bad).
Most modern two part urethane clears can be sanded and polished in 1 day so I'm not sure where some of these comments are coming from.

2000 grit sand paper is fine. Using it wet is advised of course to improve consistency and reduce paper loading.

When performing the polishing you need to get two different type of compound: a fine cut compound, and a polish. "Rubbing Compound", at least the crappy Dupont stuff sold at auto parts stores is really coarse and should be avoided. Pick up some proper 3M or Meguirre's compounds and you should be fine. The fine cut compound will do most of the work, and you should see a pretty decent shine after using this. Polish by hand and use firm pressure, there is no need for machine polishing to get a good shine.

I strongly advise against using a machine to polish the paint unless you are experienced in using one. It is really easy to cut though the paint and destroy all your hard work. You can get a really nice shine by hand polishing so I advise doing that and only go to the machine if you can't get a shine any other way.

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

What happens if I sand through the clear? Can I spray on top of the clear and showing paint or do I need to sand all the clear off or remove all paint and start again?

You should only need to re-apply the clear. Make sure the is no remanants of your compounds you used, scuff the whole thing and reshoot it.

 

[ddaniels]

The 30 day wait time used to be the rule with old enamel paints. Not an issue with today's laquers and urethane paints. I always wait 2 days and it's always enough. I alos set it out in bright sunlight for a few hours after the final clearcoat to help the curing process. Just don't start sanding right after taking it out of the sun. It has to cool completely first.

 

[rustybronco]

What happens if I sand through the clear? Can I spray on top of the clear and showing paint or do I need to sand all the clear off or remove all paint and start again?

If your base was a straight color and you sanded through the clear into the base coat you might get away with degreasing and CAREFULLY sanding the rest of clear with the recommended grit paper, then reclearing. if it's a metallic base, more than likely you will need to sand, rebase and reclear.

read the Mfg's technical data sheets, it should tell you what you need to know.

 

[Dave8338]

One other note on the "I sanded through the clear...can I recoat" possibility: It USUALLY shows a little darker in color contrast, if you have a "spot" that you sanded through the clear and just re clear the part.

Not "always" the case and reds and blacks are better at being recleared.
Silver (as metallic was mentioned earlier by Dale) is a NO GO for a spot fix.

 

[Mop Bucket]

I am mostly finished with the polishing. Thanks everyone for the help and advice. The parts turned out pretty good. This is what I ended up doing. I sanded all tins down until there wasn't anything shiny. I than started to use the electric buffer than the words of Nessism echoed in my head.

I strongly advise against using a machine to polish the paint unless you are experienced in using one. It is really easy to cut though the paint and destroy all your hard work. You can get a really nice shine by hand polishing so I advise doing that and only go to the machine if you can't get a shine any other way.

I pulled out the hand buffers and got to work. I started with McGuire?s extra fine cleaner. After that shined it up pretty good I went for McGuire?s polish #7. I was told that I should use #7 for 6 months so the paint can finish curing then add McGuire?s #26 polish.

The results

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

That'll do!!