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polishing methods... which way?

  • Thread starter Thread starter midnightcafe
  • Start date Start date
Just a tangent to this thread. Has anyone out there used either the Mothers powerball or the mini ball for metal polishing? I know Chip Fosse has ads on tV usind them for polishing paint, but if you consider that getting orange peelo out of paint or clear and polishing unpolished metal pieces, specifically the aluminum on our bikes, isn't really that far apart. And, the mini ball would be great to get between the fins on the head.
The results here are amazing. I've used the same system of wet sanding , 800,1000,1500,2000, then polish on some old used pieces and the y turned out alright. Hand sanding is good exercise too!!
 
Great polishing thread here...what about the shiny chrome exhausts seen in these pics?
1. Is there a trick to cutting through the crud on the front of the header pipe?
I tried the aluminum foil with no real luck...just knocked off the rough / high spots.
2. Will the bluing come off with polishing?
3. I know rust pitting in the chrome is bad news; however will polishing cleanup light pitting say 20-30 mills?
 
question:

question:

okay, so I went 220, 400, 600, emery cake, tripoli, white rouge on the sprocket cover. I know it's not perfect, but what do you think?
3103113107_5208626640_b.jpg
 
okay, so I went 220, 400, 600, emery cake, tripoli, white rouge on the sprocket cover. I know it's not perfect, but what do you think?


Done and done! Me likes! Going brighter is not appropriate in my opinion unless your bike is spotless or you are pimping for...god knows what.:p
 
okay, so I went 220, 400, 600, emery cake, tripoli, white rouge on the sprocket cover. I know it's not perfect, but what do you think?
Did you use a buffing wheel on that? I notice a definite vertical grain running through the piece. If you buff out with glaze and a wool or microfiber pad, you'll get rid f that too with out getting to the chrome look.
As an aside, my previous comment about Abralon has netted me some jobs getting rid of haze and fog on polycarbonate lenses, and I managed to polish deep road rash out of a couple turn sognal lenses off the sons old bike.
 
okay, so I went 220, 400, 600, emery cake, tripoli, white rouge on the sprocket cover. I know it's not perfect, but what do you think?
3103113107_5208626640_b.jpg
Looks great man! ok what is emery cake? tripoli? white rouge?..sounds like a wine tasting party
 
Did you use a buffing wheel on that? I notice a definite vertical grain running through the piece. If you buff out with glaze and a wool or microfiber pad, you'll get rid f that too with out getting to the chrome look.
As an aside, my previous comment about Abralon has netted me some jobs getting rid of haze and fog on polycarbonate lenses, and I managed to polish deep road rash out of a couple turn sognal lenses off the sons old bike.

Yep used a buffing wheel, leaves a distinct hazy grain. I'm trying some Mothers aluminum polish on the cases, turns out pretty clean.

My tripoli wheel shows color pretty quick now- after a couple minutes it goes gold so I have to clean it more often (hit it with a hacksaw) which probably takes some life out of it judging by the pile of string on the floor. When should you replace your wheels?
 
When should you replace your wheels?
I replace mine when they get too small. A smaller wheel has a lower surface speed and will take longer to get the job done. Since I don't have an extension on the motor shaft, a small wheel also allows the work to get too close to the motor, possibly causing scratches when it hits. I only use one grade of compound on my wheel and don't really clean it that often, but I get pretty decent results. Maybe you are cleaning yours too often? :-k

.
 
I replace mine when they get too small. A smaller wheel has a lower surface speed and will take longer to get the job done. Since I don't have an extension on the motor shaft, a small wheel also allows the work to get too close to the motor, possibly causing scratches when it hits. I only use one grade of compound on my wheel and don't really clean it that often, but I get pretty decent results. Maybe you are cleaning yours too often? :-k

.

I'm with steve on this one. I don't clean my wheels much at all. If your part that you're polishing is clean (free from dirt and grease) then there should be almost no build up on the wheel. If you use paste or liquid compounds, not only does it make a mess, but your wheel gets all bunged up in no time.

If you have a 6 inch bench grinder, get bigger wheels. Like 8 or 10 or 12 inch. You'll need a little sleeve to put on the shaft to keep things centered. I use the little plastic bushings that came with sets of shocks, they work perfectly. The bigger wheels will raise the surface speed even more, and you can use the wheels longer. I find it's harder to kill the motor too because of the increased flywheel effect. So it's a win win situation. But don't take my word for it, try it!
 
Since everyone else is showing off the shiny stuff...
Pic doesn't do it justice.

shownight029.jpg


I had good luck with www.eastwood.com products.
However, the last order of buffs I had trouble with their 4" rounds coming apart. I don't know why. Pop 'em in the same as always, give it a spin and the threads just start flying off. They replaced the buffs for free and the replacements did the same. They claim I'm the only one who had this happen. I still don't know why it's happening. Guess I'll shop for buffs elsewhere. I have had good results with their other buffs and compounds though. Tripoli with a tighter sewn buff if deeper removal is needed, white rouge with a loose sewn buff for final polish.
I too have trouble from time to time when polishing. When to add compound...when to clean...when a buff is too worn...One basic rule is to not buff in the same direction all the time. Make a pass and then make the next pass at a 90 degree angle to the previous one.
 
wheels

wheels

Since everyone else is showing off the shiny stuff...
Pic doesn't do it justice.

shownight029.jpg


I had good luck with www.eastwood.com products.
However, the last order of buffs I had trouble with their 4" rounds coming apart. I don't know why. Pop 'em in the same as always, give it a spin and the threads just start flying off. They replaced the buffs for free and the replacements did the same. They claim I'm the only one who had this happen. I still don't know why it's happening. Guess I'll shop for buffs elsewhere. I have had good results with their other buffs and compounds though. Tripoli with a tighter sewn buff if deeper removal is needed, white rouge with a loose sewn buff for final polish.
I too have trouble from time to time when polishing. When to add compound...when to clean...when a buff is too worn...One basic rule is to not buff in the same direction all the time. Make a pass and then make the next pass at a 90 degree angle to the previous one.

In the process of doing the stock wheels on a GS 700...I started out with a good cleaning..started with 350 - 400 - 600 - 1000 - 1500. They look good but I think they could be better...obviously a liitle tough to do with a bench grinder....what did you use? ..yours look incredible..
project700ES3.jpg
 
Joe, I did mine for the cafe in the bench grinder. Yes, it was a little complicated, but it still worked well, as you can see.

(excuse all the finger print smudges :o)

DSCF1911.jpg


DSCF1913.jpg
 
In the process of doing the stock wheels on a GS 700...I started out with a good cleaning..started with 350 - 400 - 600 - 1000 - 1500. They look good but I think they could be better...obviously a liitle tough to do with a bench grinder....what did you use? ..yours look incredible..
project700ES3.jpg

I sanded by hand up to 2000 grit, then used Mother's with a 4" buff in my hand drill. Most all my pieces were done that way except for the swingarm which I started with a D/A sander. But I have just acquired a bench polisher... can't wait to play with it!

000_0172.jpg



000_0174.jpg
 
Joe, I did mine for the cafe in the bench grinder. Yes, it was a little complicated, but it still worked well, as you can see.

(excuse all the finger print smudges :o)

DSCF1911.jpg


DSCF1913.jpg
Looks great Rudy! What kind of black paint did you use?
 
I sanded by hand up to 2000 grit, then used Mother's with a 4" buff in my hand drill. Most all my pieces were done that way except for the swingarm which I started with a D/A sander. But I have just acquired a bench polisher... can't wait to play with it!

000_0172.jpg



000_0174.jpg
Bruce, what kind of black paint did you use?
 
Looks great Rudy! What kind of black paint did you use?


Used VHT wheel paint and clear. Wicked awesome stuff!! I actually had brake fluid puddle on the painted part of the rim from the banjo bolt that I forgot to tighten all the way. Paint didn't lift, wrinkle, dull or anything. Made to resist chips as well. I must say though, you have to follow the directions on the can to the letter or you'll end up with a mess. A buddy of mine did it wrong and ended up sanding everything down again.
 
In the process of doing the stock wheels on a GS 700...I started out with a good cleaning..started with 350 - 400 - 600 - 1000 - 1500. They look good but I think they could be better...obviously a liitle tough to do with a bench grinder....what did you use? ..yours look incredible..
project700ES3.jpg
I had the stock machined finish polished out by a polishing shop. They were then masked and powdercoated gloss black. It was 9 years ago but the price was really fair, about $75 for the polishing and $65 for the powdercoat, each wheel. No way I'd do it myself for that price. Plus they came out looking truly better than factory.
The rest of my bike I polished myself. Cases, fork legs, etc. Everything black on the bike is powdercoating too.
 
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