Polishing Question

[euch]

Okay, I've read through EVERY post on this entire site about polishing the cases. I have the info broken up into different kinds, very shiny, satin type look, etc...

I've got a specific question here that I can't seem to find an answer for. I really don't want to remove all the pieces from the bike to polish them. I'd like to do it while attached to the bike.

So, here it is. Can I remove the clear coating from the cases while on the bike? If so, what precautions would you take to protect the paint on the frame and such.

Next, specifically, how would you polish you cases while still attached to the bike?

 

[dig dug mx6]

I polished my cases while still on the bike. I hand sanded and sanded and sanded and sanded and sanded and sanded . etc.

I started with 220 to get rid of the clear coat then 400 then 600 then 1000. then I used my drill with a polishing attachment to get the high shine.

It takes longer since you have to work around things and since you are not able to move the part getting to some the areas is hard. It can be done but it takes time.

 

[ccratin]

I've done a combination and still have plenty to go! The clear coat will come off with stripper, but you have to be careful to keep it off the painted areas. That will help out with some of the elbow grease. When using stripper, it depends on corrosion, scratches, etc as to what grit you start with, but you need to end up with at least a 1000 if not 2000 grit before you polish. You can get drill mounted arbor and a sewn buffing wheel to polish with and use the same rouges. I'd recommend clear coating afterwards though. Otherwise it's lots of maintenance to keep up the shine.

 

[Road_Clam]

Okay, I've read through EVERY post on this entire site about polishing the cases. I have the info broken up into different kinds, very shiny, satin type look, etc...

I've got a specific question here that I can't seem to find an answer for. I really don't want to remove all the pieces from the bike to polish them. I'd like to do it while attached to the bike.

So, here it is. Can I remove the clear coating from the cases while on the bike? If so, what precautions would you take to protect the paint on the frame and such.

Next, specifically, how would you polish you cases while still attached to the bike?

You could do a polish job with the covers on the bike, BUT you will have to do a LOT of masking of the engine crankcase to prevent overspray of the gasket remover spray when removing the clearcoat (that factory clearcoat is WICKED tough stuff). Personally I removed all my covers, and restored them, and it was not hard. I used Mothers' aluminum and mag polish, and they look like new.

 

[tracy borchert]

sanding

sanding

A good thing to use are sanding blocks.I used them on most of my clear coat. I also used my dremel with polishing attachments,and alot of mothers polishing paste. You can get the blocks in different grits of course.It is alot easier to remove the covers and such to polish than to do them on the bike. There is as much prep time as there is disassembling time,and less chance of screwing something up.Worked pretty good too.

 

[silverhorse47]

Nice

Mary

 

[mixongw]

My drill attached buffing wheel was a little slow. I then switched to the variable speed angle grinder and it did a much faster job.

 

[Matt Vann]

I used a gel stripper applied with a brush to remove the clearcoat while the bike was assembled. It worked really well. I used mothers and 0000 steel wool to build the finish. It came out great.

As I make other repairs on the bike that require pieces to be removed, I take the opportunity to polish the part before it goes back on.

 

[outofcontrol]

You are going to spend many hours sanding and polishing. It is way easier to order the new gaskets for $10, and work the piece in your lap or on a bench than it will be on your knees and elbows. I used a $5 garage sale grinder with buffing wheels on my work bench. This is much easier and more effective than a drill mounted wheel.
Believe me, I am all for doing things for cheap, and with as little effort as possible. Plus my garage was cold and dark, and my basement is warm and lit.

If you are dead set on not taking the covers off, at least lay the bike down on some carpet and sit next to the bike. I have probably 14 hours into polishing my side covers, and 12 minutes into taking them off and on.

Seems like easy math to me. (no offense intended):-D

-KM

 

[euch]

Okay, here is a dumb question then. Are taking the covers off the same as splitting the cases?

Please define the difference from removing the covers to polish them and splitting the cases, I'm confused!

 

[G man]

Removing the covers is pretty easy, although the stator cover can be a bit of a pain to get back on. Simply unbolt the cover, disconnect clutch linkage, etc. and pull. You might need to use a rubber mallet or dead-blow hammer to break the old gasket free. Not very hard and you'll be glad you took them off rather than crouching over for hour after hour.

Splitting the cases is major work. It involved complete dissasembly of the engine. You do not need to do this unless you bend a rod, break a cam chain or some other serious internal lower end work needs to be done. Fortunately, these engines are plenty stout and unlikely to require this type of work unless abused or not maintained.

Good luck.

 

[BriTXbike]

So I've tried both and as soon as I get my Stator cover done, hopefully this week, I can post some before and after pictures. Taking the covers off has been ALLOT EASIER then with them on. I cut my time to less then half with a 1/2 hp Grinder wheel and polishing pads. To be exact I use 400 and 800 grit wet sanding and then move to Black,Brown,White, and Rouge (in that order) compounds and it looks like a mirror in a fraction of the time. You can buy the compound package at Sears for like $7. Just trying to figure out the best way seal the metal so the shine will last as long as possible.

 

[G man]

Just trying to figure out the best way seal the metal so the shine will last as long as possible.

If you want to spreing for the $, get it clear powdercoated. Much, much more durable than clearcoating. If not, I would suggest you just leave it bare. A light re-polish once or twice a year is all it should take to keep the shine up.

 

[chazz]

So I've tried both and as soon as I get my Stator cover done, hopefully this week, I can post some before and after pictures. Taking the covers off has been ALLOT EASIER then with them on. I cut my time to less then half with a 1/2 hp Grinder wheel and polishing pads. To be exact I use 400 and 800 grit wet sanding and then move to Black,Brown,White, and Rouge (in that order) compounds and it looks like a mirror in a fraction of the time. You can buy the compound package at Sears for like $7. Just trying to figure out the best way seal the metal so the shine will last as long as possible.

do you use the compounds dry or wet,as i bought a kit and the damn instructions were in german,and my compounds are as hard as stone

 

[G man]

I've used the hard rouge blocks (both from Sears and Eastwood) and the key is to use the compounds sparingly. The first time I tried the stuff, I totally loaded the wheel up and all it did was slow me down and make a big mess. Just get the wheel to speed and give a couple quick pushes with the rouge stick. As you are working you can ususally tell when the time is to re-apply. Remember, less is more. If you get too much buildup on the buff, you can actually scratch the piece.

Let the wheel do the work, dont jam the piece into the wheel too hard. If you are significantly slowing the wheel you are using too much pressure. I've had the best luck with a speed of at least 3500 RPM. A few more tips:

1) Use a different wheel for each color of rouge. If you contaminate the finer wheels, you'll never get to the mirror finish you are looking for.

2) Clean the wheel periodically. I got a buff rake from Eastwood http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=970&itemType=PRODUCT and it works pretty well. If you are VERY careful, you culd probably improvise something.

3) WEAR SAFETY GLASSES! I assure you, safety is not for losers. Little bits of rouge and the buff will get everywhere.

4) Don't look down at the part from above. If you're like me, you'll get excited about how well it is cleaning up and start using more pressure. If you've never used a bench buffer before you will be shocked by how quickly a points cover can be ripped from your hand and embedded into your forehead. Lighter pressure will help prevent this but be sure that your face is not in the travel path just to be safe.

5) The part will get hot. Very hot. The longer you work without a break the hotter it will get. Wear a thick leather glove or you might burn yourself or let go and create a missile. Sadly, I learned this one the hard way.

There are few appearance mods you can do that will provide such a dramatic improvement. Take your time and you will be very satisfied with the results.

Good luck.

 

[BriTXbike]

Preach on Gman. That's pretty much my approach. I did the same thing with to much compound first time around. I read allot of guys that went through all the sand paper 400,800,1000,1500,2000. That was just to much for me since black is pretty gritty and with the wheel is more than effective at cleaning it up. My only recommendation is make sure you do a good job of striping the clear coat first. 30 minutes and two rounds of air craft stripper has worked for me the best cuz then you really have the bare metal to work with. Also cleaning the wheel I just rack it with a screw driver, seems to work pretty well. One other thing plan on getting VERY dirty as that crap flys everywhere.

Gman: the clear powder coat cause the metal to loose any of the luster? I've never seen a part clear powder coated before

 

[G man]

I agree with you on the sandpaper, Brian. I can only see the need to sand if the corrosion is very heavy or there are gouges from a drop. Sanding to remove the clearcoat would seem to add a lot more work to remove the sanding scratches. Aircraft stripper is wonderful stuff.

As far as clear powder coat goes, if a good quality urethane or polyester product is used and it is applied and cured correctly it will be crystal clear. In fact, I have seen some pieces where I felt the powdercoat made for more depth. Could be an illusion, but it certainly looked at least as good as the bare product. Any good powdercoater should be able to select the right product.

The key is really the prep. The surface must be super clean. Also, cast parts (like engine side covers) should be pre-heated prior to powder application to prevent out-gassing from the pores. This can create microscopic bubbles or pinholes in the actual coating which will eventually allow the same kind of corrosion to happen again.

 

[G man]

Also, I won't say I didn't use the old screwdriver trick myself the first few times I polished aluminum. I just have this horrible mental picture of someone trying it on my suggestion and ending up with a screwdriver throught the eye. So kids, please don't try that one at home. The secretary will disavow any knowledge of your mission...

 

[mixongw]

Also, I won't say I didn't use the old screwdriver trick myself the first few times I polished aluminum. I just have this horrible mental picture of someone trying it on my suggestion and ending up with a screwdriver throught the eye. So kids, please don't try that one at home. The secretary will disavow any knowledge of your mission...

What the heck is the "screwdriver trick"?

 

[BriTXbike]

The Screw driver trick is talking about the process by which you Score the buffing wheel of compound build up. Basically cleaning it up a bit so the old compound does not build up and you become counter productive in your efforts to polish the part your working on.