Polishing techniques

[CUEagle17]

I just got my engine case cover off because I need to replace a few things on my clutch. Thus it is a great time to polish the cover because it is looking pretty ugly.

I have seen some people sand the heck out of them with less polish while other use less sanding and a lot polish. Some use paint stripper at times to start.

What are some proven techniques?

 

[Nessism]

There are countless threads in the archives on this if you feel like looking...

Basic method:
-Strip off clear coat with paint remover

-Sand out major corrosion marks with sandpaper or a use fiber grit wheel on a buffer/grinder. Work from coarse to fine, stopping at 350-400 grit.

- Polish/buff using a sisal wheel and black polishing compound. The resulting brightness will be above that of OEM.

- If a super bright chrome like finish is desired use a stitched buffing wheel with rogue next.

 

[halz426]

I get my best results from:

1: Wet sand, 1000 to 1500 to 2000 grit
2: Mothers mag and aluminum polish on a felt dremel pad.
3: Seal with wax or wizard brand sealer

I tried a polish wheel on my grinder, but did not get the greatest result since you ideally need one wheel for each compound (only had 1) and I also had limited working room with the bench grinder.

I also find brake cleaner is helpful for removing paint, I hate airplane stripper.

My amateur polish job: see pic

 

[Ecklund]

Nice outcome.

May I ask if you know how long it will last? I mean without the factory coating wouldn't it quickly corrode?

Would a simple application of wax after polishing stop/slow the corrosion? Or is there some super ju ju coating that can be used?

 

[halz426]

Yes, without a coating/sealant they will corrode really fast and a simple coat of wax will slow the process.

The wax seems to do a good job, I did my side and cam covers 2 years ago and they are still looking good.

For the forks I tried out a product called Wizards Motorcycle Power Seal. I read another post on this forum about how it is good stuff and creates an acrylic barrier.

They make a clear-coat from Eastwood called Diamond Clear Gloss for Bare Metal which is an acrylic polymer, haven't used it yet but will experiment with it on smaller parts since I have a can.

Hope this helps.

 

[Ecklund]

Very much, thanks.

My '81 is finally to the point where doing some cosmetic stuff makes more sense.

 

[chuck hahn]

USE WIZARDS POWER SEAL AND DO AWAY WITH THE CLEAR. Its just goona chip eventually and allow moisture to make the parts look like they did when you decided to polish them. Wax is virtually useless in durabilty and protection .

Look the power seal up and read the label.

As for my polishing process.

1..Blast the parts free of all corrosion and clear left on them. Can use paint stripper too, but for me its too messy so the blast cabinet is the tool.

2..Polish on the Eastwood buffer machine I have using BLACK MAGIC rouge. Its a cut / color rouge meaning it cuts the crud and polishes the metal all in one operation.

http://www.caswellplating.com/buffi...fing-compounds/black-magic-rouge-grade-a.html
3..Finish with the sewn cotton wheel and some Bushes Super Shine Aluminum Polish

4...Clean parts with acetone soon as done to remove any rouge left on them and seal with Wizards Power Seal immediately.

Heres some pics of the results. For informational purposes, these fork lowers took about 45 minutes each.. No hrs of sanding or all that other time sink stuff folks seem to want to do all the time.

The Bushes polish...

 

[Ecklund]

Wizards, got it.

Nice results on the fork lowers and engine covers.

 

[chuck hahn]

As the sealer yes. I just reapply each spring and they stay nice.

 

[limeex2]

The polished look, looks great!, But how does one get the polished aluminum look?

 

[Steve]

..., But how does one get the polished aluminum look?

By polishing the aluminum. :-k

See post #7. :-\\\

.

 

[chuck hahn]

watch a bunch of You Tube videos for then techniques and theory. And note the link to the Black Magic I added to the post , That bar is like 2 inches square and maybe 10 to 12 inches long and weighs about 2 LBS at least. 1 new bar will do an entire bike easily.

 

[Nessism]

Sears sells black polishing compound. I use that and a sisal wheel.

 

[Jackrabbit]

I am restoring a pretty corroded '81 GS850G. I am using a buffing wheel on a portable polisher and brown cutting compound with good results. My question is how did you guys get the engine baffles polished. Every time I try to polish them the wheel catches and tries to rip the polisher out of my hands. Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[Guest]

Jackrabbit. To do the baffles I take a paint stick and fold a scotchbrite pad over it. Depending on how bad they are the scotchbrite pads come in different grits. A little bit of elbow wax and they come nice and clean. You can apply wax or sealer the same way, although wax will dissipate quickly with the heat. Some of the generic scotchbrite pads have no grit or lose it quickly, so you will have to go for the real thing here.

 

[Guest]

Just don't go as high with the wet sanding, likely stop at 1000 grit. I think some people are getting good polished aluminum by just using a pad. Ask Nessism, he's got it down pretty good.....oh, he beat me to it.

 

[Nessism]

I recently finished some heavily corroded Kawasaki engine covers and first thing I'll say is hand sanding is for the birds. Glass bead blast, 220 grit on a DA, heavy sisal wheel on powerful buffer along with black cutting compound. F hand sanding. F buffing wheels. Get the heavy duty $hit and have at it. You are going to need some heavy gloves because the aluminum gets HOT when you are hammering away with the sisal!

 

[sinkankan]

I recently made a tail piece for the BSA out of a prop spinner off an aircraft, after giving any obvious scratches a hit with the triangular orbital sander I buffed it up with a nylon Scotch Brite type wheel. Then it with medium polishing paste (brown) and finishing if off on another cloth wheel with autosol. The final finish is with the Metal Reflection finishing fluid, great for protecting the finish as well.
have a bowl of water handy to rinse off excess wax and keep the item cool, polishing waxes tend to hate hot surfaces.