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POP SPUTTER (new petcock)

Also check to see that the tank vent is not clogged. After running for a while open the gas cap. If you hear a "whoosh" the vent is clogged
 
On both on & res. position gas should flow only while vacuum is applied. No vacuum no fuel. On Pri. (prime) fuel should flow constantly with or without vacuum.
 
Both are getting returned, I was thinking about just running on reserve for a bit with the old halfway working one but I already ordered a true OEM petcock and would rather just get the return done quicker.

Ofcourse if I experience that fuel dump again, which i very well might, the carbs will be ran through.
 
bobgroger said:
Also check to see that the tank vent is not clogged. After running for a while open the gas cap. If you hear a "whoosh" the vent is clogged
Click to expand...

I will check! I will say i can always smell gas when sitting on my bike before its started hopefully coming from the tank. I've also sealed the tank so the area you put your cap back on is a little thicker than it used to be.
 
I got one off Amazon for $45, there was only 2 left so now it should be one lol. Same seed number but there was an extra 3 zeros at the end. In the pictures it shows the box suzuki puts the petcock in and it reads the original numbers.

Hoping it's the same one for a better price, ifnot lesson learned no cheap vacuum petcocks
 
Like in the other posts. Do yourself a favor and get an O.E.M. that should eliminate that as the problem,valve adj. could cause low vacuum also.The fuel tank needs to be vented as do the carb float bowls.The bowl vent hoses should be vented to a dead air space as not to cause a vacuum.
 
gs11ezrydr said:
Like in the other posts. Do yourself a favor and get an O.E.M. that should eliminate that as the problem,valve adj. could cause low vacuum also.The fuel tank needs to be vented as do the carb float bowls.The bowl vent hoses should be vented to a dead air space as not to cause a vacuum.
Click to expand...

Everything is in order right now as in, I have a working fuel valve and its OEM. I've adjusted the valves before and put on maybe like 100 miles before rechecking and they were fine. Fuel tank is able to vent as the pressure release sound doesnt happen when the gas cap is took off. Wheres the float bowl vents? Are they the two gas exits in between carb 1 and 2 and also carb 3 and 4. If so those like to dump fuel. The pilots and floats need to be checked and worked on. It sounds rough but got better the more I ran it. I just got it back up with a new fuel valve and I'm gonna be checking for vacuum leaks and the carbs
 
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Well, no vacuum leaks.

Carbs need the works.

Sounds like a fuel delivery which was the case when this fuel dump was addressed on the forum. It idles better when the idle rises, as in cylinder turns on.

Should I do the whole rebuild or just mess with the section that needs work, floats and pilots and needles are what im supposed to be messing with right?
 
If you have fuel leaking out of the carb bowl vent lines, then either your float is stuck or the needle valve is dirty or worn out or your float level is way too high. You can put a manual petcock on. You just have to plug the vacuum port at the Intake manifold area.
As for OEM stuff always being good, I bought a brand new OEM ignition switch for my Zuma from Partzilla. It was bad right out of the box. Bought another and now all is well.

Mad
 
Maddevill said:
If you have fuel leaking out of the carb bowl vent lines, then either your float is stuck or the needle valve is dirty or worn out or your float level is way too high. You can put a manual petcock on. You just have to plug the vacuum port at the Intake manifold area.
As for OEM stuff always being good, I bought a brand new OEM ignition switch for my Zuma from Partzilla. It was bad right out of the box. Bought another and now all is well.

Mad
Click to expand...

Got a good fuel valve. My bike sounds like a twin when accelerating so now I really need to just start working on them

Gonna check my spark too just incase. All 4 exhaust headers steam but still.
 
Two things I must ask about while I'm at the carbs.

When I got them off, I decided to look at the intake valves through the intake boots because I just like to see if anything changes, I dont know what I'm really looking for in there lol, BUT, tonight I saw something I cannot recall ever seeing the plenty of times I've looked in my intake valves, gas is coating the metal all around before the intake valves , does this mean gas was old or does this indicate something else.


The gas I first used was definently older, but I dont know how old non ethanol gas has to be to deem unusable

Also, if gas is in the airbox emergency tube, does that indicate one of the 3 things I'm checking for, the float being stuck, a bad or clogged pilot, or a high float setting. Gonna go through them as I finish this but just thought I'd ask!
 
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Snapchat-2011762634.jpg

Colour of the crud on my intake porting, I dont know whether to be dreading an answer or not. It looks like gas rust to me but I may be wrong.

I hope this air pump still pumps good
 
Decided to rebuild, they're all apart and I used wd40 to keep parts from oxidizing as they're not sitting in carb dip. With that being said, what's the best carb dip I can buy in store whether Walmart or harbor freight I just would like to pick some up instead of ordering online.

I know which bits to dip and not to dip, but to make sure, no rubber or plastic bits will be submerged.
 
Update

Neither Walmart or any auto parts store had the berrymans at the store nor same day pickup so I went with the gunk, my one issue is i have a stripped screw and its for the plate that holds the seat in, i tested the pilot to make sure it wasnt clogged by blowing into both ends with a tube making sure it worked from either side. However, I cant fit all 4 carbs in the carb dip container and I dont have any spare metal tins that arent sealed correctly at the bottom, and I seen that pinesol works and also wont damage any rubber or plastic bits, I want to try dipping this one and the rubber and plastics bits in pinesol. Any disclaimers beforehand?

Also I know this is before the carb clean, but its alot better than last time too me

Here's how my sparks look in correct order, other than 3 it's all good and I'm pretty sure its a float height issue. Let me know if I'm wrong! Pretty sure they look lean too but I've never been able to properly tune the exhaust to the bike.
Snapchat-333613343.jpg
 
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