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POR-15 Question

  • Thread starter Thread starter MisterCinders
  • Start date Start date
M

MisterCinders

Guest
I think there is a tiny leak below my paint on the tank, as a small blister has emerged. When I hammered the sides on that one, it caused a very small pinhole (i.e., I clumsily hammered too hard) that I filled in with some JB Weld. That was sometime ago and it had held after several tests of filling with vinegar and then gasoline. I have since run several tanks of fuel through it.

The small paint blister suggests that fuel is finding a way out.

Before stripping the tank for a full blown fix over the winter, I considered doing a POR 15 or Caswell seal inside.

My tank is rust free and otherwise clean. Do I need the "kit" or should I just go straight to the sealer?

If the temps weren't so damn cold, I'd just paint one of my other tanks and use that. But without any climate controlled spray booth, I am stuck with mother nature.
 
POR-15 is awesome!
If the tank is clean just dry it out and pour it in.
Keep moving it around for a day to get even coverage.
 
Pretty sure you've got to do all 3 to get good adhesion. Cleaner, metal prep and then the POR-15 and make sure the tank if 110% dry before putting in the POR-15. I'm not sure which tank sealer is better for plugging holes but I'm sure there's a thread on it somewhere. Did my tank 3 yrs ago with POR-15 and still holding strong, I had a lot of rust in mine but no holes.
 
Do all three steps as outlined in the instructions. I have done several and it is fabulous stuff.
 
MisterCinders said:
If the temps weren't so damn cold, I'd just paint one of my other tanks and use that. But without any climate controlled spray booth, I am stuck with mother nature.
Click to expand...

No you are not. I have painted several bikes outside in freezing weather, even one while it was snowing, with good results. You are talking rattle can paint, IIRC? Have the spray can at room temp, (or warmer) have the items to be painted at room temp or warmer. Take one item at a time outside and shoot it, take it all back in as quickly as you can. Certainly less than a minute outside for each item. Warm the can back up, grab the next thing to shoot, and go shoot it.

The paint stays warm in the can, flies through cold air for a split second and onto a warm surface, before it starts to dry it is inside in the warm air again.

I certainly wouldn't try an expensive paint job his way, but for a rattle can job it has worked fine for me.

A few snowflakes had to be wet sanded out of the one, but other than that it was flawless.
 
tkent02 said:
No you are not. I have painted several bikes outside in freezing weather, even one while it was snowing, with good results. You are talking rattle can paint, IIRC? Have the spray can at room temp, (or warmer) have the items to be painted at room temp or warmer. Take one item at a time outside and shoot it, take it all back in as quickly as you can. Certainly less than a minute outside for each item. Warm the can back up, grab the next thing to shoot, and go shoot it.

The paint stays warm in the can, flies through cold air for a split second and onto a warm surface, before it starts to dry it is inside in the warm air again.

I certainly wouldn't try an expensive paint job his way, but for a rattle can job it has worked fine for me.

A few snowflakes had to be wet sanded out of the one, but other than that it was flawless.
Click to expand...

A snowflake texture hmmm...maybe you stumbled onto something there Tom
:D
 
tkent02 said:
No you are not. I have painted several bikes outside in freezing weather, even one while it was snowing, with good results. You are talking rattle can paint, IIRC? Have the spray can at room temp, (or warmer) have the items to be painted at room temp or warmer. Take one item at a time outside and shoot it, take it all back in as quickly as you can. Certainly less than a minute outside for each item. Warm the can back up, grab the next thing to shoot, and go shoot it.

The paint stays warm in the can, flies through cold air for a split second and onto a warm surface, before it starts to dry it is inside in the warm air again.

I certainly wouldn't try an expensive paint job his way, but for a rattle can job it has worked fine for me.

A few snowflakes had to be wet sanded out of the one, but other than that it was flawless.
Click to expand...

I may give this a shot. There's a seat I keep wanting to paint, but my rattlecan coverage went completely sideways in even slightly cool temps.
 
Definitely follow the instructions with the POR-15 even if you don't have rust.

It's great stuff, but you really need the process... the Marine Clean will get rid of any fuel residue or anything like that, the Metal Ready will etch the surface to give the liner a chance to create a really good bond.

I've got over 8000km's on mine since doing the kit (my tank was rusty as well) and so far so good, very happy with it!
 
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