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porting question

  • Thread starter Thread starter gearhead13
  • Start date Start date
Well, it is nice looking, but honestly there was too much of the port floor ground away. On a good note, the most critical area is around the valve seat and bowl area. Doesn't look like it was touched. The port can actually be improved by raising the floor. Very little exhaust gas flows along the floor until it reaches the very end of the port. Raising this area increases the velocity of the gases, improving volumetric efficiency (more power)......Heres a pic of the exhaust port on my 1238cc kitted drag motor. The floor was raised with (dont do this on a street motor) JB Weld, and you can see where the exhaust gases were eating away the center of the floor right before the gasket. This is where the flow converges.....Billy
exhaustport001.jpg
 
i'll take a picture of a Dwayne Williams head I have. 2V no pix of 4 V stuff
 
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small port gs head started life flowing mid 60s' C.F.M. I and X

this is a great example how much work is needed on the intake side and NOT MUCH necessary on the exhaust side to achieve 89 C.F.M at 0.490" of intake lift - 79 C.F.M. at 0.430" on the exhaust side. stock valve sizes.

opening it way up is not what you are looking at either. never take material off of the floor of the port.

port diameter back and forth from 30 mm to 32 mm and finally to 38 mm at the intake valve. smooth ridge on the roof splitting the guide boss.
 
Jeff is right! When I do a BIG GS head I actually put epoxy in the port floor to raise it up & reshape the port to improve port VELOCITY. As far as the only opinion that counts being your own, whoever said that, I've got lots of GOOD head cores for you after you figure out you are making yours good for recycling. Ray.
 
As far as the only opinion that counts being your own, whoever said that, I've got lots of GOOD head cores for you after you figure out you are making yours good for recycling. Ray.
LOL, Ray.
Well, here is the head after i got it back from media blasting. I am in the process of painting it now. Does it look like recycling material??
head1.jpg
 
Can't tell from this picture, can't see the ports. From what I can see in this picture it looks like a STOCK valve job & there is a LOT to be gained with just a good RADIUSED jalve job. Porting is next to useless without a good valve job. I have seen bigger power gains with a good valve job than with porting. Of course, the guys that do good porting also know to do a good valve job. Ray.
 
I am not looking to do anything radical here, just smoothing out the bumps. I am focusing on the 1/4" (or so) before and after the valve, which I think is the most important part of the port. I have done a fair amount of grinding in these areas already.
 
From what I can see in this picture it looks like a STOCK valve job & there is a LOT to be gained with just a good RADIUSED jalve job. Porting is next to useless without a good valve job. I have seen bigger power gains with a good valve job than with porting. Of course, the guys that do good porting also know to do a good valve job. Ray.

Ray, by saying a radiused valve job, do you mean the angle of the grind? The guy that did my head said he did a "3-angle grind". Also here's a pic of my porting. When I run my finger on the bottom of the exhaust port, I can feel a bump. It's not a huge bump, but it's there. Is that the way it should be?

100_4820.jpg



100_4819.jpg


Sorry, not trying to hijack, just thought we could all learn a little.
 
since I got the stone seat grinder my valve jobs have gotten much better over a neway cutter only.

Tom Klemme and I messing around have a new belief on that DEEP deep 60 degree cut. we have a flowmaster 110 at the shop and have gained 5 + C.F.M. on that cut and a fine valve job . no porting at all just seat attention.

1 angle = stock 45 valve 46 seat
3 angle = better 45 valve 30,46,60 seat
5 angle = more tools more cost more performance
7 angle = you get the idea
radius = much work and that last tenth of a percent of potential.
 
If you have the tools, then exotic multi angle valve jobs can help.
But for me the $250 the machine shop wants to do a valve job isnt worth it for the 5 cfm gain.
 
since I got the stone seat grinder my valve jobs have gotten much better over a neway cutter only.

Tom Klemme and I messing around have a new belief on that DEEP deep 60 degree cut. we have a flowmaster 110 at the shop and have gained 5 + C.F.M. on that cut and a fine valve job . no porting at all just seat attention.

1 angle = stock 45 valve 46 seat
3 angle = better 45 valve 30,46,60 seat
5 angle = more tools more cost more performance
7 angle = you get the idea
radius = much work and that last tenth of a percent of potential.
Actually, I use a Serdi machine & the radius cutter is a 1 piece, 1 pass cutter with the seat angle & the top & bottom radius machined into the cutter. It is WAYYYY faster than stones & is a 1 cut for each seat deal! Also, the radius cut over a 3 angle is about the same 5 CFM additional you found with the deep 60 degree cut. Ray.
 
Does the radius seat treatment do a good job at heat transfer from valve head? Does it last(wear) as long as an angled cut?
 
Yes, the radius cutters provide a flat seat area. There are many cutters available for different head, port and chamber configurations. They can provide seat widths from 0.010 to 0.060 or so.
 
I was going to add that as long as you maintain the proper seat width heat transfer will be the same if your using the same cam that allows for the same seat time.
 
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