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Possible starter clutch issue?

JTGS850GL

JTGS850GL

Forum Sage
Past Site Supporter
Went for a ride on Sunday but noticed a strange sound when starting the bike. When I pressed the start button I notices a kind of a sharp nocking/tapping/gear grinding sound. Engine started just fine but have heard this twice now. Am I going down the road of needing a new starter clutch? What should I be looking for in terms of damage parts to replace?
 
Don't wait - go exploring now! Maybe a roller came loose or maybe the three screws are loosening up. Best not to damage crank surface
 

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You most definitely need a flywheel puller, I just changed the stator and rotor on my 77 750 and it was a devil to get off. An impact wrench helps also, as stated get in there sooner than later.
 
OK, suggestions on which puller and where to get it? This is for a 1983 GS1100G engine. I'd like to try to order the tool as soon as possible.
I don't plan on riding this one till it gets resolved.
 
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I think this is what I need.
Dtea6B.jpg


http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0349-Flywheel-Puller/dp/B000GU33WQ

Motion Pro P/N: 08-0349

Can anyone confirm?
 
tom203 said:
Not sure how about this michigan guy. We should have a puller sharing club


http://stores.ebay.com/Motorcycle-P...ubmit=Search&_fsub=3490485018&_sid=1067012968
Click to expand...

Yes, kind of like the shim club but with tools. You borrow the tool for shipping + a deposit. When you return the tool you get the deposit back. I could go for that but I do tend to be a tool hoarder.;)

So far this is the least expensive one I've found:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flywheel-Pu...hash=item3f4266c083&item=271696969859&vxp=mtr
 
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I dislike having tools that I will seldom use - I have too many already. I'd probably opt for 3 arm gear puller and sledge hammer before acquiring more.
 
I've been doing some research on the starter clutch issues and now thinking of applying the "delayed ignition fix". Any updates on how effective it's been? Any idea if ignition timing would have an impact on how often I get starter kick back? One thing I had to do to convert the 1100G engine to the 1000G ignition was to move the mechanical advance and signal generators over from a 1000G engine. Have not had a chance to verify dynamic ignition timing yet.

Thinking of adding a delay relay to the igniter/coil supply line in order to allow the engine to not fire until the starter motor RPMs are up. Probable location of the relay would be inline with the O/W wire supplying current to the coils and igniter. Could also double as a bypass relay mod supplying full battery voltage to the coils and igniter instead of passing through the ignition and kill switch.

Not sure there's any problem with the starter clutch right now since it doesn't happen all the time and I hear no unusual sounds once the engine is started. Probably will still check out the starter clutch just to make sure.
 
A forum member explained how to switch wires by the coils without cutting anything. This will enable the motor to spin without firing the coils. Key on, run switch off, thumb starter button, motor spins, hit run button to on, coils fire. It was post #11 in the thread.
"1150-1229 starter button mod", was the thread title in the search function.
 
Yes, I saw that thread. It was Posplayer that posted it. I decided to go with option 4 in his list of fixes because I like the clutch safety circuit being intact and that would not allow me to reach over with my left hand to start the bike. The delay relay seems like the best option as it would be automatic.

Still looking for someone to confirm the correct tool to remove the flywheel before I order it.
 
What ignitor are you using? There is yet another way that is simpler.
 
The igniter is the stock GS1000G unit that was used on the 1980 model. When I installed the 1983 GS1100G engine I transferred the mechanical advance and the signal generator from a 1980 GS1000G engine into the 1983 engine.
 
I don't remember who it was, but one of the people installing a SSPB complained to me that their bike would not start until after they released the start button. They figured it had something to do with the headlamp cutout circuitry in the SSPB. Well after a little experimentation it was discovered the the PO had wired the ground of the ignitro to the solenoid (Y/G) start line. The effect is that as long as the solenoid is engaged the ignitor will not fire. As soon as the start button is released the ignitor is grounded through the solenoid and the bike fires. It apparently worked so well that the person installing the SSPB had never noticed it before.

The other thing that helps is the headlamp cutout as it eliminated 5 amps to the headlamp while the engine is cranking. So probably a better solutions is :
A.) Wire the ignition ground to the Solenoid Y/G
B.) Wire in a headlamp relay as per these directions: http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...y-with-start-cutout&highlight=Headlamp+cutout



I updated this link as well.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...tch-Disaster-Modification&p=806505#post806505
 
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JTGS850GL said:
Yes, I saw that thread. It was Posplayer that posted it. I decided to go with option 4 in his list of fixes because I like the clutch safety circuit being intact and that would not allow me to reach over with my left hand to start the bike. The delay relay seems like the best option as it would be automatic.

Still looking for someone to confirm the correct tool to remove the flywheel before I order it.
Click to expand...
No, it wasn't Posplayer, but he has several more detailed choices and explanations to choose from. It was this guy
Jd Powell
Guest

Wow, Awesome thread! I stumbled across this one a few minutes ago. Sounded good so I thought I'd give it a try. Amazing results. On my bike, a 1980 GS1000G. I just unplugged the connector from the rt. handlebar switch. (located under the coils) In this connector power comes in on the red, goes through the kill switch, to the start button and the coils. This coil pwr wire exits the connector as an O/W wire. So by simply unlocking the pins in the connector (switch side not harness side) I was able to switch the red and O/W wires. Now power is available to the starting button whenever the key is on. The kill switch now only controls the ignition. New start sequence = Key on, push start button 1-2 sec, turn kill on, Success! The best part is no cutting/splicing needed. Also if you leave the kill switch on, the bike still starts normally
 
Carter Turk said:
No, it wasn't Posplayer, but he has several more detailed choices and explanations to choose from. It was this guy
Jd Powell
Guest

Wow, Awesome thread! I stumbled across this one a few minutes ago. Sounded good so I thought I'd give it a try. Amazing results. On my bike, a 1980 GS1000G. I just unplugged the connector from the rt. handlebar switch. (located under the coils) In this connector power comes in on the red, goes through the kill switch, to the start button and the coils. This coil pwr wire exits the connector as an O/W wire. So by simply unlocking the pins in the connector (switch side not harness side) I was able to switch the red and O/W wires. Now power is available to the starting button whenever the key is on. The kill switch now only controls the ignition. New start sequence = Key on, push start button 1-2 sec, turn kill on, Success! The best part is no cutting/splicing needed. Also if you leave the kill switch on, the bike still starts normally
Click to expand...


Is it also available when the Ignition Key is OFF? Can you crank the engine with the key off? My guess since red is always hot, and it sounds like you connected O/W to Red.
 
chef1366 said:
You need to go in and have a looksy
Click to expand...

Flywheel removal tool is ordered. As soon as it gets in I'll be pulling it down to see what happening. Not riding it till then. Need to replace a front fork seal as well. Other then that it rides soooo sweet!! 1100G engine has a ton of grunt down low. Makes for a nice smooth runner.
 
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