Powder Coating question

[TheBigRed]

Ok folks.

I'm finally to the point where I can get this done to my frame.

Just a couple of questions for those that know the process better than I do.

How do I keep sections from getting coated?

I'm thinking specifically the shock mounts, inside the head, and the inside some of the mount holes. However I also realize I'm going to need some good locations for some solid grounds.

So do I just get the whole thing coated as is, then grind out what I need for grounds and (carefully) grind off the shock mounts?

Or is there some other prep I can do to those locations that will cause the powder to not adhear to the surface?

Here is a pic of my frame as it is:

And has been pointed out in my appearance mods, sitting like this is asking for rust, and quick.

Amos

*edit*

May have found my own answer here, but I'm still gonna need help.

This place appears to have what I'm going to need to make sure I can acces my threads/holes and even has circles that I think I can use for leaving myself some grounds.

http://www.tapecase.com/tc/powdercoating.asp

So, I guess my next question is going to be, what are the locations for my grounds that I should leave. (I'll have a look at my manual and 650 later tonight to try to locate as many as I can, but should I leave any others?)

And are there any locations/items I haven't mentioned that I should think about making sure aren't covered with plastic.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

When my frame was powdercoated, the shop did all the masking with a high heat tape. They simply rolled up pieces to stop anything from entering any holes/threaded areas, masked off the bearing area, etc. I had a grounding hole near the battery area that I made sure they covered. We didn't mask the shock pins. I also had the steering races removed but I was installing new later. Powdercoating uses about 450-500 degree heat. I'm not sure if that matters to the races or not?
They sandblasted the frame first too, along with everything else I had done.
Powdercoat is tough stuff, so mask anything you don't want to have spayed. Save you time later.
If you're going black, hope you choose gloss black as I did. Some people think that a semi-gloss will look good and they're sorry they chose that. In some kinds of light, flat or semi-flat kinda looks brownish. I guess some people think gloss black will look too shiny? My gloss black looks just like factory.

 

[TheBigRed]

When my frame was powdercoated, the shop did all the masking with a high heat tape. They simply rolled up pieces to stop anything from entering any holes/threaded areas, masked off the bearing area, etc. I had a grounding hole near the battery area that I made sure they covered. We didn't mask the shock pins. I also had the steering races removed but I was installing new later. Powdercoating uses about 450-500 degree heat. I'm not sure if that matters to the races or not?
They sandblasted the frame first too, along with everything else I had done.
Powdercoat is tough stuff, so mask anything you don't want to have spayed. Save you time later.
If you're going black, hope you choose gloss black as I did. Some people think that a semi-gloss will look good and they're sorry they chose that. In some kinds of light, flat or semi-flat kinda looks brownish. I guess some people think gloss black will look too shiny? My gloss black looks just like factory.

Gloss black is the only way to go on a frame that I'm trying to get as near factory as I can without going too overboard, so yeah, I'm going gloss black.

I'm also planning on replacing the bearing races.

So is that one location the only one that you made sure was good for a ground?

Also, how did your VIN come out afterwards? did the powder coating fill it in any, or is it still clearly visable?

Amos

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

My frame had only that one ground point.
I never gave the stamped in VIN numbers any thought. Didn't think about it really. The powdercoating is thick stuff but mine came out readable though. If you have any worries, mask that off too.

 

[TheBigRed]

My frame had only that one ground point.
I never gave the stamped in VIN numbers any thought. Didn't think about it really. The powdercoating is thick stuff but mine came out readable though. If you have any worries, mask that off too.

Ok, one of the reasons is when I had it sand blasted, the plate that contains all the mfg details, including vin ended up coming off, and the stamp is the only thing left. The guy that did the sand blasting said that it (the VIN) appears to be of a good enough stamp that it will come out fine. If yours did I'm sure this one will as well.

I'll check my 650 then to make sure I know where all I'll need grounds. I know that the turn signals etc ground through the frame, but if they are bolted in place and the threads are making good contact it should be good.

Amos

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Not sure what your signal ground wiring set up is but mine relied on wiring, eventually leading to that one ground point on the frame. The signal body is generally rubber mounted and isolated from frame contact. I would think your signals, from the factory, would use a metal core inside the stem connecting to a wire that connects to a flat washer/nut, to the harness and then the frame. The connection at the flatwasher/nut is the most common problem on GS's.
But in any case, for proper grounding or not, you don't want powdercoat to get in any threads.

 

[Buffalo Breath]

coat

coat

If the frame sits for more than a week they will have to blast it again, if you got the bucks have the frame phosphated, to prevent rust out under the powder coat, if you get chips.