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Pre-Engine removal tips? GS650G

  • Thread starter Thread starter Seaking
  • Start date Start date
S

Seaking

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Now that I know the bike will turn over, and has good compression, it's soon time to pull the engine from the frame so I can properly de-rust and repaint the frame this winter. (valve clearances checked and adjusted, carbs removed for new o-rings and cleaning etc)

Before getting into pulling the engine off the frame, any tips, info, cautions or warnings I should be aware of? I've seen the various methods to pull an engine: on it's side and pull frame off engine, slide the engine out sideways..

While engine is out I have to remove some broken bolts in the exhaust and change o-rings on intake boots (screws are mostly mangled).. clean and repaint..

I am hoping to remove the oil pan to clean out any sludge, still have to research that one.. anything scary there?

New stator and R/R lined up, after finding some toasty wires in that area, methinks it needs it..

Now the FUN begins.. ;)

Cheers
 
Oil pan is easy, as is pulling the engine. It's a lot heavier than you might imagine.
 
Thanks for the info, I read somewhere about a grille or strainer around the oil pan that may cause issues if the pan is removed? I haven't been able to re-find that article..

It certainly isn't a one man job, well for someone like me ;) I pulled the engine out of my VStar and that was a lot heavier than I thought at the time, some I can well imaging this engine is going to be heavier, indeed..

I wish those bolts and screws weren't busted/mangled.. I'd rather ensure the engine will run before diving into this project.. But knowing I have good compression is half the battle? Hmm it's like I haven't a choice.. gotta get it out to get it in a condition I can find out if it will run properly..
 
How many, and which exhaust bolts are broken? Do the ends stick out at all? What have you tried?
The intake screws are not usually all that hard.
 
tkent02 said:
How many, and which exhaust bolts are broken? Do the ends stick out at all? What have you tried?
The intake screws are not usually all that hard.
Click to expand...

The 2 exhaust bolts are on different exhausts and stick out just a little, not enough to get a purchase on them with anything or get two nuts onto them to turn them out.. I could possibly hang the exhaust with the remaining bolts..

The intake boot screws are in there tight.. I haven't the proper sized JIS screwdrivers to tackle them properly (the ones that aren't mangled). I don't want to risk mangling the rest. The location alone makes it difficult to get a good angle on them.

If there is a leak at the exhaust or intake boots, the engine should still run though not very well.. but at least I'd know it runs..

Sounds like a good course of action?

I have a machinist available to take out the offending hardware once the engine is out..

its all a learning process, trying to avoid as many silly mistakes as possible..

Thanks again.
 
Drill a hole in a flat piece of steel, the size of the bolts, 8mm. Weld the flat steel on the bolt. Stick wax on the threads while they are hot from welding. again while it's still hot, move the piece back and forth, it will move. Unscrew it. Done.

For the intake screws, use an impact driver, the hand held hammer type. You will have to take some stuff apart and use extensions to reach, but it can be done. Vice grips on the screw heads works too.
 
I wouldn't pull the engine unless I had to. But yeah, you can test the engine with exhaust leaks. It will be noisy but it will run fine, maybe a little off on the carburetion but good enough to test it.
 
Thanks M8.. scratch engine removal.. Next the carbs.. get those sorted out and installed, hook up exhaust as best I can, rig an aux fuel supply, give 'er a shot and see what happens..
 
I've used the vise grips and impact hammer to good results. I used a penetrating oil made of 50% atf and 50% acetone, applied liberally over a few days. I wouldn't pull the engine unless I had to either. Do I hear an echo in here....:rolleyes:
 
The echo is loud and clear!! clear.. clear..

No welder available to me, though I had seen the technique used before, I don't think there is enough bolt sticking out to use that technique without hurting the engine. Though I used impact drivers a lot in the past I haven't got one here (yet).

Asking because I don't know, but would putting atf or penetrating oil on the intakes boots harm the rubber?

I eventually will have to pull the engine out to tackle the rust on the frame. This thing was last riden 2 years ago and the rust didn't do the frame any favours. Nothing deep to compromise the frame's intergrity but man it's ugly as sin..

I feel I'm in that weird predicament of putting the cart before the horse, danged if I do, danged if I don't.. if I pull it to do the frame, easier to get to those bolts, but might be wasting my time / money if the engine is pooched.. OOOH the fun of it all ;)

and there's that echo again.. again..
 
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Does it shift through the gears properly?

I get in that mode where I want to test things like this, but these Suzuki engines really are bomb proof. If it has compression, if it shifts correctly it's probably going to be a runner.

The clutch may slip or it may leak a little but it will run.

If not, 650G engines are dime a dozen.
 
Based on what the previous owner told me (the type of guy from good background in the community, in other words trustworthy), he had cleaned out the carbs, got the bike running (2 yrs ago) and took it out for a spin. Said it shifted well, ran reasonably well, enough that he started his project but had to give it up with the new addition to his family. And the bike sat in hopes he could get back to it but it didn`t happen.. got into something else instead.

Hence why I hedging that the engine is solid (after the compression test) and a calculated risk in proceeding with the engine removal before getting it fully running..

I do appreciate your comments and advice. The voice of experience speaks louder than the cries of the inexperienced..

I`ll have to mull this over the weekend, and see if the machinist can do his stuff while the engine is in place..

Thanks again
 
Seaking said:
Based on what the previous owner told me (the type of guy from good background in the community, in other words trustworthy), he had cleaned out the carbs, got the bike running (2 yrs ago) and took it out for a spin. Said it shifted well, ran reasonably well, enough that he started his project but had to give it up with the new addition to his family. And the bike sat in hopes he could get back to it but it didn`t happen.. got into something else instead.

Hence why I hedging that the engine is solid (after the compression test) and a calculated risk in proceeding with the engine removal before getting it fully running..

I do appreciate your comments and advice. The voice of experience speaks louder than the cries of the inexperienced..

I`ll have to mull this over the weekend, and see if the machinist can do his stuff while the engine is in place..

Thanks again
Click to expand...

Pro tip:
Remove the little cover at the top middle of the engine. That cost me a good 2 hours when I was pulling the engine of my 1100e.
 
OK I will be contradictory here.In my opinion the best way to derust and repaint the frame is engine out.You can do a better job cleaning and repainting the engine.My favorite way to get the engine out is lifting the frame off it.I generally remove as much as possible before I do this.Silverbullet is right taking the breather on the top of the motor is a good idea.There was no problem getting the pan off my 81 650.
 
Thanks SV and Silver, as it happens the little cover (breather) is off for a gasket change.. This frame will need a good glass beading and / or wire wheel treatment to get into all the nook and crannies to get the rust out..
 
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