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progressive fork springs

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Guest

Guest
A while ago I got a set of progresive fork springs for me Gs1000s.
they are 485mm long ,which is longer than stock suzuki ones,stock suzuki ones are
421mm long,so are these the right ones i ask or do I make a spacer to make up diff.
all totaly confused.
please help me.
 
Steve - in your S you should have 351mm (service limit 346mm) springs + a metal spacer as standard. If you want to go stock - and I've found them fine - I just sold a whole set of forks to SLR (breakers) through Ebay. Fork legs were shot (accident damage to mudguard mountings) but the internals were fine.
 
Do the progressive ones fit in the fork leg? You say the progressive is longer than stock but then talk about making a spacer to take it up - are they longer or shorter than your stock ones?

You can always try it & see. No problem to make up a PVC pipe spacer (use a washer at each end) to take up any added space. Test carefully!

Dan :)
 
Have the PCV pipe stick out of the forks 3/4 to 1 inch with the forks fully extended.
 
Oooooooops

Oooooooops

hampshirehog said:
Steve - in your S you should have 351mm (service limit 346mm) springs + a metal spacer as standard. If you want to go stock - and I've found them fine - I just sold a whole set of forks to SLR (breakers) through Ebay. Fork legs were shot (accident damage to mudguard mountings) but the internals were fine.
Click to expand...

Thanks wally
I got the length from a Gs1000 Haynes manual which says 421mm.
my genuine gs1000 manual one says 351mm ,what you said m8,so couldnt I shim it out with washes
in stead of tube as havent got access to a lathe.
Dont suppose anyone knows the length of the spacer before I pull it apart again .

Thankyou
for the help again.
 
You can shim it with washers but it will be heavy. Go to B&Q & pick up a length of thick walled PVC water pipe. There is one that is exactly the right size (this is what progressive give you should they put a spacer in the kit). I think it's the 3/4" bore stuff.
Cut to length. Use a washer at each end of the PVC & Bob's your uncle. Make sure your cut is straight as otherwise it's a bugger to get the fork caps back on.

Progressive recommend you have the spring + spacer length equal to the top of the tube when fully extended. This then equals about 3/4" to 1 " preload by the time you've screwed the cap in. Add more or less spacer as desired (you do need some preload so you can't have spring +spacer less than the bottom of the threads for the cap).

I had my bikes set up as per their instructions & it was fine. Worked loads better than stock. My 78 Skunk has a little more preload (about 1/2") & that's ok too but you can feel the increase in stiffness in inital stroke. 15w fork oil filled to 140mm from the top of the tube (fully compressed) again as per instructions from progressive (which matches stock in this case).

I weight about 11.5 stone.

Cheers,

Dan :)

Dan :)
 
You need to install the Progressive springs and then measure how far below the top of the fork tube they are. Standard procedure for these springs is to cut the spacers so it’s flush with the top of the fork tube before the top cap is installed. If you are 6’5” and built like a football player, like chef, you might want to set up the spacers to stick out the top of the forks some. When installing the cap the springs will be compressed somewhat which will set ride height. Trying to determine spacer length by calculation is a crap shoot, you are better off just making the spacers on the fly from PVC tubing.
 
Oooooooooooooh

Oooooooooooooh

Thanks
For reply "will have a go and try again soon" do I need to put air in the forks with the new springs fitted.
 
I used 20wt fork oil. I hope I didn't go to heavy. My spacers extend about 1/16 inch over the tubes. I guess I'll find out how this setup works when I get it out on the road
 
crapwacker said:
I used 20wt fork oil. I hope I didn't go to heavy. My spacers extend about 1/16 inch over the tubes. I guess I'll find out how this setup works when I get it out on the road
Click to expand...

20W oil is quite thick, stock was in the 10 - 15W range.
 
Drain out a measured qty & replace with something lighter... If you mix it 50/50 with 5w or 7.5w then you'll be somewhere close.
 
On the other hand, if you mix, you will always be guessing. :-k

Just buy the right stuff, (you are going to have to buy the thinner stuff to mix, anyway) and know what you are putting in. :o

.
 
I don't believe you'd ever notice it but yes it would be more correct to drain & put it all in fresh.

How much do you weigh? 15wt works good for me at 165lb, if you're heavier 20w might work for you...
 
progressive fork springs

Thanks for all the replies.
will have another try soon.
 
OldVet66 said:
I started mine the other day, and indeed the Progressive springs are longer, but are the same length, with the factory spacer on top of the old springs. I'm 175 lbs., the springs are about 1/4" below the top of the forks. Should I just cut the factory spacers so they are flush with the top or go with it the way it is? I always have this for adjustment. http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...authkey=Gv1sRgCKTzwsyJve6w9gE&feat=directlink
Click to expand...

Thanks
where did yer get the pump and gauge from?.
 
It's a Progressive product. They used to be common years ago so you wouldn't blow your seals with too much pressure. My old one was a syringe with a gauge, this is quite a nice one, It doesn't bleed any air taking the hose off, and it has a bleeder for fine adjustment. I'm looking for a fork equalizer now, it connects both forks with one central filler. I should have put a quarter in the picture to show the size, it fits the length of my hand with the handle sticking ofer a little.
 
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