Project Windjammer

[Matchless]

Thanks Dale that is one of my worries as I have seen a lot of mention of impressing the surface of the Naxel. Do you think a metal surface would not get hotter than the wood? I could easily clad it with aluminum flashing. What do you think of HT paint on the wood?

I will definitely have to support the plywood, but will do once I have the correct radius on the bend.

Yes, Georgie follows me around all over and joins in whatever I do or plonks himself down in my way! He is quite photogenic! So rather than trying to shoo him out of the photo I left him and now he thinks he should be in everyone!

 

[rustybronco]

Thanks Dale that is one of my worries as I have seen a lot of mention of impressing the surface of the Naxel. Do you think a metal surface would not get hotter than the wood? I could easily clad it with aluminum flashing. What do you think of HT paint on the wood?

Andre,

While the wood and metal may arrive at forming temps with differing rates, in an oven they will eventually be at the same temp. preheat the form, attach the Lexan then bring up the temp slowly. my 3 cents worth Dr...

***edit*** the coefficient of expansion between wood and metal will differ. but for practical intents and purposes, how much it will matter might not be enough to worry about.

 

[Matchless]

Andre,

While the wood and metal may arrive at forming temps with differing rates, in an oven they will eventually be at the same temp. preheat the form, attach the Lexan then bring up the temp slowly. my 3 cents worth Dr...

***edit*** the coefficient of expansion between wood and metal will differ. but for practical intents and purposes, how much it will matter might not be enough to worry about.

I will do a test run on a small bit, as I also need to determine the minimum temperature at which it will just start becoming bendable.

I will go for the sheet metal cladding as that would be easiest.

Next is the oven. I need to find a useful thermostat for the element I have.

 

[rustybronco]

I will do a test run on a small bit, as I also need to determine the minimum temperature at which it will just start becoming bendable.

I will go for the sheet metal cladding as that would be easiest.

Next is the oven. I need to find a useful thermostat for the element I have.

I think what you need to test for is, at what temp does it form easily without bubbling. on the little test I did, when the Lucite reached thermoforming temp you could easily bent it with two fingers!

here's a 'frugal' method you can use to regulate temp in your 'oven'. watch your temp gauge (probe) and 'regulate' power to your element with a switch. the ultimate down and dirty method of regulation. or, just find an old stove and snitch the control from it.

 

[Matchless]

If you look at my first picture of the pod and radio on the bike, in the background I have a small oven. I will test a small bit in there to see what temperature I should aim for. Apparently the window of opportunity that I want on the polycarbonite is a bit smaller than the perspex and at a higher temperature around 150 C, but need to prove that.

I never even thought of manual regulation as a way to go for a once off. I may even do that.

What is your thoughts on spraying the plywood mold with high temperature engine enamel from a rattlecan (supposed to withstand up to 600 Deg F) and then sanding it to a smooth finish?

I was thinking of using a pair of gloves to push/droop it manually over the mold when it just becomes flexible instead of waiting for it to gravity droop mold, thus staying as far as possible from the bubble forming temperature range.

I can get a sheet of 4mm Asbestos cement 900mm x 2400mm that is used in ceilings and intend making a box for the oven from that with 6 pieces of 900mm x 400mm. I am worried that the height of the 3 KW element above the Naxel may allow less even heat to the outer edges and without a fan may cause the center to become hotter than the outer part and cause bubbles.

 

[rustybronco]

What is your thoughts on spraying the plywood mold with high temperature engine enamel from a rattlecan (supposed to withstand up to 600 Deg F) and then sanding it to a smooth finish?

Too much like work! and I wouldn't even try it. what if the paint comes off?

I was thinking of using a pair of gloves to push/droop it manually over the mold when it just becomes flexible instead of waiting for it to gravity droop mold, thus staying as far as possible from the bubble forming temperature range.

An excellent idea...

I can get a sheet of 4mm Asbestos cement 900mm x 2400mm that is used in ceilings and intend making a box for the oven from that with 6 pieces of 900mm x 400mm. I am worried that the height of the 3 KW element above the Naxel may allow less even heat to the outer edges and without a fan may cause the center to become hotter than the outer part and cause bubbles.

If it were me and because heat rises, I'd place the element below the form.

what do you think of drilling a few 25mm holes in the ends of the form, allowing the heat to escape out the sides?

 

[Matchless]

Dale,
Thanks for the feedback. Yes, I agree the paint will be too risky.

My biggest concern at the moment is having a "hotspot" in the oven which will obviously be at a higher temperature than the surrounding area. A convection fan would have sorted that out, but I want to stay simple and frugal as this is just a one off.

I will try a test bend on a bit of scrap Naxel this week, hopefully that will help me in the right direction.

 

[chuck hahn]

Andre..simply amazing that it has made it half way aropund the world from Michigan, USA!!! Gonna look great on the bike . Cant wait for the final mounted pics!! My pleasure to have been able to help make the dream come true, by the way.

 

[Matchless]

Andre..simply amazing that it has made it half way aropund the world from Michigan, USA!!! Gonna look great on the bike . Cant wait for the final mounted pics!! My pleasure to have been able to help make the dream come true, by the way.

Chuck,
As you have seen it is slowly coming together. I trimmed the Type IV lowers today to fit the Windjammer V and managed to get the rubber wellnuts here as well.
This coming week I will get the rest of the Decals done, then I can sand down the rest of the parts for spray prep.

I have had quite a few people admiring the fairing as they were not very common around here and mostly found on the Goldwings of the era.

If it was not for you and Dale this would not have been possible!

 

[Matchless]

I have washed the Bagman panniers out and have treated the faded canvas with Plush Takkie Black for canvas shoes.
The completed one looks like new now except for the scuff mark in the picture. The one on the right shows how faded they were.

 

[Runningdog]

If you are concerned about the wood pattern transferring onto the screen material during heating, consider using bakers parchment as a pad...good to 200C, cheap.

 

[Flyboy]

You really are putting in some good work there Andre, I can not wait to see it all done and on the bike, it is going to be a looker for sure.
I am just curious as to why you decided to go with 5mm, is it not a bit thick?

 

[Matchless]

If you are concerned about the wood pattern transferring onto the screen material during heating, consider using bakers parchment as a pad...good to 200C, cheap.

Never heard of it, can you give more details, thanks.

 

[rustybronco]

I am just curious as to why you decided to go with 5mm, is it not a bit thick?

I don't have the original windshield thickness in front of me at the moment, but the original is very close to that thickness. (4.7mm??????)

 

[Matchless]

You really are putting in some good work there Andre, I can not wait to see it all done and on the bike, it is going to be a looker for sure.
I am just curious as to why you decided to go with 5mm, is it not a bit thick?

The 5mm is quite thick and just about impossible to bend by hand. Apparently that is the thickness the Windjammers windsceens were made of originally. So I just followed to suit.

I have been wondering if a thinner bit would not be better, but not sure how it would stand up. Do you have any thoughts on this?

I am also looking out for a set of snapvents. Do you know of any place here that may stock them?

 

[chuck hahn]

bakers parchment is the paper that bakers put on a baking sheet to bake rolls and cookies and stuff to keep them from sticking to the metal pans..probably available at any local bakery. They may just give you a good sized chunk when you ask.

 

[Matchless]

bakers parchment is the paper that bakers put on a baking sheet to bake rolls and cookies and stuff to keep them from sticking to the metal pans..probably available at any local bakery. They may just give you a good sized chunk when you ask.

Thanks! That is a good tip and may be much easier and cheaper to use!

 

[Guest]

I made a boat windshield out of acrylic. I used the old broken one as a mold. I roughed the old one back together with screws and plywood reinforcing ribs. I covered the whole thing in felt and laid the acrylic on top. There was no "pattern transfere" the windshield was crystal clear.
At the time had access to a 12 by 12 foot walk-in oven that was used to make skylights.

 

[Matchless]

I made a boat windshield out of acrylic. I used the old broken one as a mold. I roughed the old one back together with screws and plywood reinforcing ribs. I covered the whole thing in felt and laid the acrylic on top. There was no "pattern transfere" the windshield was crystal clear.
At the time had access to a 12 by 12 foot walk-in oven that was used to make skylights.

Very interesting. Did you keep the mold (old windshield) outside the oven and heat the acrylic sheet only? Can you recall how you did it exactly with any periods and temperatures?
Thanks!

 

[Matchless]

Today the decals for the sidecovers, tailpiece, Windjammer lowers and Bagman were done. The tank will be done a bit later.