• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Proper Technique for retorqueing head nuts

  • Thread starter Thread starter lhanscom
  • Start date Start date
L

lhanscom

Guest
What is the proper technique for retorqueing head bolts? I want to do it to see if I can get rid of some of the oil seepage at the head gasket. I'm guessing that I follow the proper bolt pattern, break loose the nut, and the torque it to the proper value. Then move to the next bolt until they're all done. But I'm not sure if I should loosen all the nuts first, or do one nut at a time. Also if I should step the torque value up, or go right to the full torque value.

Thanks for the help.
 
i had some leaks around the bottom of my jug, i loosened all the bolts first then retorqued according to the book. i used some pb blaster to, to help loosen them.

-ryan
 
I had a bad leak there too. I just took the valve cover off and had at em with a tourqe wrench. Didn't loosen them first, no specific order, just tourqed them up. Of course that bike is now a boat anchor...
 
Loosen all of the nuts then in stages retorque to the specs for your mc the sequence is easy to follow as the head bolts are all numbered on the head itself. You should have no problem with this procedure. :)
 
I agree with everyone but Jethro! :lol: Sorry, it was too good to pass up. 8)

Keep in mind that the gaskets are over 20 years old and re-torqueing may not do the trick. It is worth a try though - good luck.
 
Swanny said:
I agree with everyone but Jethro! :lol: Sorry, it was too good to pass up. 8)

Keep in mind that the gaskets are over 20 years old and re-torqueing may not do the trick. It is worth a try though - good luck.
Click to expand...

Actually the head gasket is about 2 months old, I had to replace it due to a little nitrous incident. :?

Thanks for the tips!
 
I have been getting flak from people about the next suggestion for years. I just ignore them, as I am firmly convinced I am correct.

I would loosen off all the bolts just a bit...perhaps a half turn.

Then, doing each one separately, I would remove each nut, and oil the stud and the contact surfaces. Once a drop or two of oil was in place, I would snug up the nut, firmly but not tight, and go on to the next one, until all were done.

Knowing now that friction on each stud had been reduced as much as possible, thus ensuring the most accurate reading, and ensuring that each nut will actually receive the full amount of torque as a tightening action, instead of being wasted as dry-thread friction, I would follow sequence as per the book, doing the entire sequence each time in separate stages of 10 foot-pounds per stage.
 
argonsagas said:
I have been getting flak from people about the next suggestion for years. I just ignore them, as I am firmly convinced I am correct.

I would loosen off all the bolts just a bit...perhaps a half turn.

Then, doing each one separately, I would remove each nut, and oil the stud and the contact surfaces. Once a drop or two of oil was in place, I would snug up the nut, firmly but not tight, and go on to the next one, until all were done.

Knowing now that friction on each stud had been reduced as much as possible, thus ensuring the most accurate reading, and ensuring that each nut will actually receive the full amount of torque as a tightening action, instead of being wasted as dry-thread friction, I would follow sequence as per the book, doing the entire sequence each time in separate stages of 10 foot-pounds per stage.
Click to expand...

Thats very interesting, i have never heard of that method before :-k

Thanks Ron.
 
argonsagas said:
I have been getting flak from people about the next suggestion for years. I just ignore them, as I am firmly convinced I am correct.

I would loosen off all the bolts just a bit...perhaps a half turn.

Then, doing each one separately, I would remove each nut, and oil the stud and the contact surfaces. Once a drop or two of oil was in place, I would snug up the nut, firmly but not tight, and go on to the next one, until all were done.

Knowing now that friction on each stud had been reduced as much as possible, thus ensuring the most accurate reading, and ensuring that each nut will actually receive the full amount of torque as a tightening action, instead of being wasted as dry-thread friction, I would follow sequence as per the book, doing the entire sequence each time in separate stages of 10 foot-pounds per stage.
Click to expand...

Ron, I wasn't told to do it with oil but lubricant is lubricant. But you should feel good to know if you were given flak that I know of at least one senior motorcycle mechanic that says this is the only way to torque a bolt correctly. He has done what you describe for over 27 years now and his work is reputable all through out this area so I would think it must be good advice :)

I do it this way but with some spray lube. I also used 3-in-1 already too.
 
Nah Ron, I would never give you flak about those instructions. Thats exactly how youre supposed to do it. :-)

Earl

P.S. awww no, I dont use no freakin torque wrench. I just drive'em down with a sledgehammer. LOL




argonsagas said:
I have been getting flak from people about the next suggestion for years. I just ignore them, as I am firmly convinced I am correct.

I would loosen off all the bolts just a bit...perhaps a half turn.

Then, doing each one separately, I would remove each nut, and oil the stud and the contact surfaces. Once a drop or two of oil was in place, I would snug up the nut, firmly but not tight, and go on to the next one, until all were done.

Knowing now that friction on each stud had been reduced as much as possible, thus ensuring the most accurate reading, and ensuring that each nut will actually receive the full amount of torque as a tightening action, instead of being wasted as dry-thread friction, I would follow sequence as per the book, doing the entire sequence each time in separate stages of 10 foot-pounds per stage.
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top