Pulled the carbs off the 81 850G today.

[jdvorchak]

Looking good - let's see if you can get the bodies that clean! Love the Mothers, and Chuck Hahn here turned me on to something even better to finish it off - Wizards Power Seal, it creates a molecular acrylic barrier to keep that polish looking great.

Not as nice as yours but not bad. I'll post some pics later. I'm off to my sisters house for Christmas Dinner so maybe tomorrow.

 

[jdvorchak]

As promised:

 

[mikerophone]

Nice! They look pretty good, and more importantly, the internals are clean.

While the rack is still off the bike, I'd highly recommend replacing those old JIS screws with metric SS allen head screws, not only looks good but so much easier to get out.

Here's a set on eBay, starting bid is 8.99 + 1.99 shipping, I buy them locally at a nut and bolt supply for about $14.

At the very minimum, replace the ones on the intake boots with SS.

 

[jdvorchak]

I already replaced the O-rings on the boots and intake boot screws with SS Allen heads. As for the screws on the carbs I used Anti-Seize on all screws. I have a pretty good set of JIS screwdrivers and rarely mess up a screw. Those that are messed up before I get the bike I'll replace with new ones. Local Honda dealer sells them to me for about 30 cents each. Not SS but good plated screws. Also have gone to the local Ace Hardware and gotten metric screws pretty cheap. Like 15 to 25 cents for M4 and M5 screws.

I've been using this screwdriver set from Harbor Freight for years and really like the way they fit JIS screws. They don't say JIS but they sure fit like JIS. The middle size slot screwdriver fits the pilot jets perfectly and the large size slot perfectly fits the main jets:

http://www.harborfreight.com/32-piece-screwdriver-set-90764.html

Allways catch them on sale for $6 ..

 

[mikerophone]

Perfect - I'll have to pick that set up, I've passed it many times, without really giving it a second look, always nice to have feedback from a GSR member on anything like that.

I'd like to buy the JIS set that GSR user gofastengineering manufactures, but these may get me by until then.

Antiseize and good screwdrivers will be fine, most of my bikes come with stripped screws, so I've just replaced them all with Allen/hex bolts. Wish the Ace hardware stores near me had metric SS screws, the Lowe's near me doesn't have much anymore either.

 

[jdvorchak]

I don't buy the metric SS screws/bolts at Ace. I only get the plain plated ones.

Also I use this impact driver. Love it because of the rubber handle that has ears on it. No way to pinch your hand when hitting it with a hammer. Also the rubber grip is fatter than a normal screwdriver, more leverage. Many times I don't even have to hit it with a hammer to free a engine case screw.

http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html

 

[Nessism]

Next thing to do is check the fuel level in the float bowls. I strongly advise you do this extra step since it really sucks to have your fresh carbs puking fuel all over your bike the first time you hook them up. To measure is to know.

 

[mikerophone]

I don't buy the metric SS screws/bolts at Ace. I only get the plain plated ones.

Also I use this impact driver. Love it because of the rubber handle that has ears on it. No way to pinch your hand when hitting it with a hammer. Also the rubber grip is fatter than a normal screwdriver, more leverage. Many times I don't even have to hit it with a hammer to free a engine case screw.

http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html

That's the one I use too. But I have stripped several of the tips out and twisted them off using it to get engine case and intake boot screws out with the hammer, I hear the Sears ones are better.

I drilled out a float bowl drain screw and epoxied a tube in to measure (and know, hat tip to Ed) the float level like Ed suggests. I've had to adjust them after closing them all up but thats so much easier to do when the rack is still on the bench.

Gas works ok, but I'd like to know what people use as a darker colored liquid to do this with in the future however - red, green or blue kool-aid, followed up with distilled water, a good drying next to the heater vent followed by gas? Or could one add food coloring to darken gasoline?

 

[jdvorchak]

Next thing to do is check the fuel level in the float bowls. I strongly advise you do this extra step since it really sucks to have your fresh carbs puking fuel all over your bike the first time you hook them up. To measure is to know.

I've learned that lesson a few years ago. I always set up a test bed, approximating the mount angle, with the actual fuel tank I'll be using. Usually I'm testing a rebuilt petcock at the same time. I have a stepped area where the fuel tank sits above the carb rack about a foot and I hook it all up. Then if no immediate leaks noted I will let it set like that for a while. Over lunch or so. If all good then I'll tilt the rack side to side to approximate sitting on the side stand and wait and see. If I've got a leak that usually shows up pretty quick. I also exercise the vacuum petcock with my mity-vac and note if the vacuum drops any at all. When I have them right nothing leaks and vacuum holds above 5 inches indefinitely. Only then will I mount it on the bike and begin test runs and final sync etc.

 

[jdvorchak]

As for darkening the fuel why not use diesel fuel. It's a little darker and easier to see. I use diesel in my parts washer so I've always got some around. Plus you don't have to worry if some gets left in the bowl. Or use some marvel mystery oil mixed into your gas. Same thing. Who cares if you don't drain it all out.

 

[Nessism]

Gasoline is fine. Use a piece of clear tubing. You won't have any trouble reading the level.

 

[jdvorchak]

Update:
Got the new jets and rubber plugs in and on the bench no leaking and everything looks good. Put them on the bike and it's not running on all 4. It will run on all 4 with starting fluid in the air box. Pulled the plugs and checked compression. It does run on all 4 from 1/2 to full throttle after a long hesitation and sluggish acceleration.

#1 120
#2 125
#3 120
#4 125

So I'm pleased with those numbers as this bike hasn't run in a dozen years or so. Not new plugs yet but these look fine and it does run with starting fluid. At that point I was pretty bummed and quit working on it.

My next plan of attack see if I can determine which cylinders are not working but I'm pretty sure I need to re-clean the idle passages. I know the jets are clean and when I squirt carb fluid into the idle jet passage I get a big stream out of the idle air intake jet. Don't know why I didn't put my finger over that jet and squirt carb cleaner and make sure it comes out the carb throat idle hole back by the butterfly...

Anyone know how many holes, by the butterfly, the carb cleaner should come through? Honda's usually only have one but I can see a couple of holes on these.

 

[chuck hahn]

Take the drain out of the cold cylinders and see if that bowl has gas in it. If not you may just have a hanging float . Sometimes the bowl gaskets will rub the floats and jam them.

 

[jsandidge]

If it runs on all 4 from 1/2 to full throttle, I would think there is gas in the bowls. You might just have a synch problem where the butterfly in that one cylinder isn't open enough at idle.

 

[chuck hahn]

Missed that detail....sorry. Yeah probably the butterflies are out of sync. A good rebench sync may help.

 

[jdvorchak]

I benched synced them prior to installation but thanks for the replies. I'll revisit the bench sync. Cleaning up water in the basement right now. Yeah I live in the midwest. We got 12 inches of rain over the weekend and I have a carpeted basement. I think it finally stopped seeping in so now just using the wet/dry vac to finish drying up the remainder. PIA.

 

[jdvorchak]

Ok I'm calling this one done. Mental note to self. They run better when the plug wires are on the right plugs. Had 3 and 4 crossed.....

 

[jdvorchak]

Just a short video of start up and idle. Right now I'm happy!

 

[fred smailes]

Right on!
Nothing like a 81 850g with a Vetter on it!
Fred

 

[jdvorchak]

Now that I have a running bike I will finish up the rest of the stuff. Clean all electrical connections, flush the brakes, new tires, oil/filter, rear end and sub-trans lube... etc etc.... then I still have an 80 GS850L w/Vetter Fairing and radio module, to get running... Going to be a fun winter!