I've used those sticky rope things alot on cars and they work.I never even take the wheel off and even keeping the tire pump on to keep the tire stiff while inserting the plug...
pump up a tire using a spark plug hole?
http://www.yotatech.com/f5/spark-plug-tire-pump-97762
Yeah, the spark plug tire pump thingys are definitely a Bad Idea. There are far too many ways something can go wrong, get set on fire, etc. Great way to run down your battery too.
I've pumped up motorcycle tires many times with an electric pump (once at least four times in a row due to some user error...) and never had a problem starting the bike afterwards. If your battery and charging system are in good shape, an air compressor won't kill it.
For almost all repairable punctures in tubeless tires, you won't need to break the bead unless there's something broken off inside the tire you need to remove.
However, there's all sorts of insanely dangerous bad advice out there for breaking beads on motorcycle tires. I swear, this one simple task generates the dumbest crap you will ever hear or see. Here's an easy and safe way to accomplish this on the road with three small tire irons without damaging the wheel or the tire. Or yourself:
1) Deflate tire (duh, but it has to be said...).
2) Note how one end of the tire iron has a curve right at the tip. (If both ends have a curve, use the smaller end.)
3) Insert this end of the tire iron between the rim and the bead with the curved tip facing the tire (like it's digging into the tire). Squeeze the tire down as best you can and wiggle and push the tire iron a bit until it's all the way in against the rim.
4) Take two other tire irons and place them on either side of the first tire iron the same way, but with the curve facing away from the tire. The correct amount of space takes some experimentation, but about an inch to an inch and a half away on either side is usually OK.
5) While pushing DOWN (towards the tire) on the two tire irons on the side, pull UP (away from the tire) on the middle tire iron. Keep inward pressure so they don't slip out.
6) Wiggle and work and worry the middle tire iron until the tire bead starts to move down a bit. Again, this takes some experimentation and experience. You probably won't actually break the bead the first time, but getting it to move a little is all you're after. Note that there should be no rim damage -- the part of the tire iron contacting the rim is wide and smooth and only in contact with the inner part of the rim. However, if you're concerned, rummage around in the ditch for a plastic bottle and cut out a piece to use as a guard. If you have any tire lube or anything similar, you might drip a little in there.
7) Repeat this process a couple of inches on either side of the original location. The tire bead will start to move, and at some point (usually at the second or third location for tubeless tires) you will be able to get it past the rim lip and the bead is broken. Tubed tires are usually a little easier, and sometimes you'll get it at the first location. Be patient, and keep worrying at it. No extraordinary forces or angles are required. If you're not getting any results, move over an inch or two and keep trying.
8) Marvel at the astonished expressions on the faces of the onlookers. For some reason, not one rider in ten seems to know how to do this -- most people want to try something totally stupid involving high forces and kinetic energy...
Very recently, Motion Pro started making a tool called the BeadPro based on this exact principle:
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/category/beadpro/
Yes, this all works on any motorcycle tire -- tubed, tubeless, narrow vintage, wide modern sportbike, dual-sport, etc. It works when other methods fail -- I've had crusty old dried out barn find tires stuck fast to the rim that I couldn't budge with my usual bead breaking setup (a lever arrangement bolted to my workbench), and with a little patience, the three irons method did the trick.
And yes, you can mount any motorcycle tire using only three small tire irons and no excess force. Just be patient, take very small "bites" and be very careful about keeping the opposite side of the tire in the drop center. Dirtbike tires tend to be a little looser, so you can usually get the job done with two, but a third tire iron makes life a LOT easier.
On dual-sport rides (tubed tires) I also carry a wee bottle of RuGlyde tire lube, a teensy bottle of talc (for tubes), a few squares of milk jug, and a tire valve "fishing" tool. There's a tire valve tool in my tool bag, and/or a tire valve cap with a tool built in. Makes changing tubes almost pleasant if you can also arrange for some shade and a breeze.
