putt, putt, putt, ahhhhhhhh!

[Anonymous]

I have a 82 GS650GZ with a problem that I don't know how to fix myself.
Blue-White smoke out the left exhaust, wet #2 plug, out of tools can't go farther in troubleshooting guide, still runs but won't go over 4000 rpm. Whats wrong :?: Desperate, my only vehicle. :?:
Thanx in advance

Mike
Yuma, AZ

 

[Anonymous]

engine problem

engine problem

Hi Mike

If you are new to this bike, I would suggest you scan through the old Q&A section as there is quite a bit of information available. You can perform a search to save time but it might be worth your while to browse through the section.

There is also a terrific section on cleaning carburetors that you might want to take a look at.

You will want to get a manual and some basic tools for your bike. The more information you can provide about your problem, the more likely you sooner you will get this sorted out.

Patrick

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

Any time you have problems with the #2 plug fouling the first thing to check is the fuel valve. If the fuel valve is bad it can suck fuel into the #2 cylinder and foul the plug Try pluging the vacuum line and run it on prime to see if that is your problem

 

[earlfor]

Usually, an excessively rich mixture will cause a sooty and very gaseous smelling exhaust. Too much fuel doest burn with a blue white smoke. Blue white would indicate oil being burned. I would also check the compression. A worn valve guide is a possibility if the milage is very high. If the milage is low though, I wouldnt think so. I wonder if putting a new plug in #2 cylinder temporarily resolves the problem? #2 plug is now wet, but I wonder if it is gas wet or oily wet? What does the residue from the #1-#2 exhaust feel like? Is it more gas like or oily?

Earl

Any time you have problems with the #2 plug fouling the first thing to check is the fuel valve. If the fuel valve is bad it can suck fuel into the #2 cylinder and foul the plug Try pluging the vacuum line and run it on prime to see if that is your problem

 

[Anonymous]

the fuel valve is broken, always on reserve, the dealer wants 75.00 dollars for it. The exhaust is really gassy, mileage is about 25,000.
I appreciate all you folks help!

 

[earlfor]

Considering your reply, I would have to cast my vote with the squaredancer. Probably a bad fuel valve. I would try his suggestion of running on the prime setting and plugging the vacum line. (assuming that by "broken" you mean the valve doesnt work on the run setting) If there is that much gas in your exhaust, I would change my oil immediately to be sure there is no gas in the crankcase.

Earl

the fuel valve is broken, always on reserve, the dealer wants 75.00 dollars for it. The exhaust is really gassy, mileage is about 25,000.
I appreciate all you folks help!

 

[Anonymous]

well today I cleaned the carbs and relaced all the gaskets and jets but now it backfires through carb #3
I checked the oil, its ok.
the fuel valve selecter is broken, dont know how to to change to prime or run.
carbs where clean, I followed everything in the Clymer manual up to sycronizing, could this be a problem?, and if so what does a dealer usually charge for this?
I just think its great that a community like this exists, you all are wonderful, Thanks.

 

[Anonymous]

Anytime I touch the carbs, I re-sync them, anything you clean, replace or adjust can change the carbs operation, (vac to fuel to mixture stc)
was the #2 float valve stuck or dirty? this would leak gas when on prime.
Next find a petcock rebuild kit or clean your out good or replace it. Running on prime is not a good thing.
Stimpy

 

[Anonymous]

Suspect the fuel petcock. Too much a coincidence that it's a number two cylinder problem.

 

[Jay B]

Carb sync tool was the best $40.00 I ever spent.

 

[earlfor]

The rough running and backfiring is probably due to the carbs needing synchronizing. It doesnt take much of a mismatch between carbs to result in poor running. I bought a mercury carb stix for synching the carbs from J C whitney for about $33.00.
Best money I every spent. They're easy to use and you'll be amazed at the difference it will make in the way the bike runs.
I have no idea what a dealer would charge to synch the carbs.
As a minimum, I would guess at least a couple hours at $75.00 per hour.

Earl

well today I cleaned the carbs and relaced all the gaskets and jets but now it backfires through carb #3
I followed everything in the Clymer manual up to sycronizing, could this be a problem?, and if so what does a dealer usually charge for this?

 

[Jay B]

I got quoted $85. Thats why I bought the stix. A bud showed me the first time and I've done it ever since. Even used it on my flat 6 with no problem. Takes a lot longer to do but it works.

 

[Anonymous]

If your fuel petcock is faulty and is dumping fuel into cylinder 2, you'll want to deal with that problem before bothering to sync the carbs. Otherwise you'll end up doing the balancing twice. It's easy to diagnose that faulty petcock problem, so do that first. By the way, I don't think anyone recommends simply plugging the vacuum line and nipple and running on prime indefinitely. You need some sort of positive shutoff of the gas either by a new or rebuilt (OEM or Pingel-type) petcock.

 

[earlfor]

You're correct Al.....
Plugging the vacum line and running on prime was suggested only as a means of isolating the problem. It was not intended as a fix.
If you decide to replace the fuel valve with a Pingel, the Pingel has an off, on and reserve setting, so you DO plug the vacum line, but you must always turn the fuel valve to off when the engine is shut down.

Earl

By the way, I don't think anyone recommends simply plugging the vacuum line and nipple and running on prime indefinitely. You need some sort of positive shutoff of the gas either by a new or rebuilt (OEM or Pingel-type) petcock.