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putting carbs back on????????

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Ok what is the easiest way to put these carbs back on my 1100?? I have tried everything. Soon as I get the money i'll be switching to pods cause this is just a pain in the ass.
 
I purchased 4 oval pods!!! Cheap as...

I purchased 4 oval pods!!! Cheap as...

I recently purchased 4 pods of mikesxs in florida.... They were oval ,,,,and a direct copy of k&n ,,actually they are made by the same mob ,,and intercharge,, they look identical... The flow is excellent,, and the qaulity is v. G. If you look up the web page and then go to fuel etc parts they are about 16 dollars each ... And fast delivery regards david from kaniva australia
 
Easiest way is with pods, best way, be sure airbox is loose & all the way back. Just force them in from the right side. Don't be afraid OF wadding up the ends of the rubber boots, they are rubber & will go back in shape. Not an easy way, but this is the easiest. Just my opinion.
 
Just a word of caution ... yes, it's easier with pods, which is a good thing because the carbs will be on and off multiple times trying to get the jetting right.

If you have decent rubber boots on both sides of the carbs, it is much easier, but if you leave it all stock, you will only have to do it ONCE.

Can't get much easier than that. :-\\\

.
 
Ok what is the easiest way to put these carbs back on my 1100?? I have tried everything. Soon as I get the money i'll be switching to pods cause this is just a pain in the ass.

make sure you save enough back for a st.3 jet kit or you will have a bucking bronco even if you spend days jetting and shimming the needles.
GS CV's have to have a jet kit to perform correctly.
once installed your done with it unless like a cetain someone that i wont mention because he is in WV and not here to defend himself....hahahhaha
as much as this certain someone's messed with his jet kitted carbs..
he should have just left them alone and been happy.;)
 
Ok what is the easiest way to put these carbs back on my 1100?? I have tried everything. Soon as I get the money i'll be switching to pods cause this is just a pain in the ass.

as far as re-installing your airbox goes...
soak the carbs and airbox down with WD-40...
 
I recently purchased 4 pods of mikesxs in florida.... They were oval ,,,,and a direct copy of k&n ,,actually they are made by the same mob ,,and intercharge,, they look identical... The flow is excellent,, and the qaulity is v. G. If you look up the web page and then go to fuel etc parts they are about 16 dollars each ... And fast delivery regards david from kaniva australia

if a person cant afford K&N's...
these are great filters that (are not) washable(if these are the same as ive been selling).
2 1/4" offset oval w/ a no name chrome back and they come with a wide clamp as compared to K&N's narrow clamp.
these filters DO NOT GET OILED.
fine product!
ive been getting 80.00 a set out these for years.
 
Just a word of caution ... yes, it's easier with pods, which is a good thing because the carbs will be on and off multiple times trying to get the jetting right.

If you have decent rubber boots on both sides of the carbs, it is much easier, but if you leave it all stock, you will only have to do it ONCE.

Can't get much easier than that. :-\\\

.

This should be a sticky!

Do the carb cleaning properly and there should be no reason to do it again for a LONG time. BTW, removing the band clamps helps make the job easier.
 
For 16 valve motors with stock airbox, remove the front boots and remove their clamps, attach your cable and vent tubes, slide the carbs into airbox boots, then put in the front boots. Reinstall the clamps after the boots are in place. Quite easy, actually, compared to the fixed front boots. Ask wingnut, I just showed him.
 
What I have found that helps on my 1150 is to get the carbs lined up to the front boots, then use a long screwdriver wrapped in a rag to help pry/push them on.

As far as pods, get these:

http://kzzone.com/carbs.html

They are the same as the K&N (private label?), and use the same K&N oil. Washable and reuseable, and sized for the CV's or the VM's.
 
Unbolt the engine and jack up the rear portion. This gives you about another inch of room. I did it on mine and it made it incredibly easy. I didn't have to even loosen the pipes. I did have to remove the pegs, rear brake, sprocket cover and shifter, but these were simple.
 
Unbolt the engine and jack up the rear portion. This gives you about another inch of room. I did it on mine and it made it incredibly easy. I didn't have to even loosen the pipes. I did have to remove the pegs, rear brake, sprocket cover and shifter, but these were simple.

----------:eek:----------
 
Unbolt the engine and jack up the rear portion. This gives you about another inch of room. I did it on mine and it made it incredibly easy. I didn't have to even loosen the pipes. I did have to remove the pegs, rear brake, sprocket cover and shifter, but these were simple.
OK how long did it take you do do all that?

How long does it take to oil the boots or use some of the other suggestions?

The last time I installed a set of carbs on an 1100G, it took less than 5 minutes, and that was with boots that were harder than they should be.

.
 
Well i got the carbs back on but now my prime doesnt work on my petcock. if it isnt one thing its another. Starter just went out on my car friday and now i'm stuck with no ride at all.
 
put it to the on or res. position and suck on the vaccum hose.
if the valves ok besides the prime...
this will fill the bowls till the engine starts and builds its own vaccum.
 
The guy i bought the bike from just rebuilt the petcock. its one of those crappy screwdriver type petcock's. wish i had room for a normal petcock on the tank.. I'll go out and give that a try. Just waiting for the battery to re-charge.
 
I've also found that carb cleaner spray works decently enough when the wd-40 is empty :rolleyes:. It takes just a lil extra muscle, but it's better than nothin.
 
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