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Question about 2k clearcoat

  • Thread starter Thread starter loud et
  • Start date Start date
loud et said:
If the 2k messes it up, I can only do better next time .
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Test it on something other than your freshly painted motorcycle. I am fairly sure someone on this forum has used 2k over Duplicolor, but test it on some scrap metal or something first. I haven't done it with 2k but I have used other urethane clears over Duplicolor a few times, it has had no issues.
 
Fresh paint on top of old paint is always a scary proposition. I've had lifting occur several times during various paint projects in the past, particularly when there were broken edges in play where the new paint could get underneath the old stuff and lift. Best practice is to spray a couple thin and dry top coat layers, with adequate flash off time between, to try to seal off the surface before trying to get a smooth shiny coat. If the thin layers stay down well then the third coat can be full wet.
 
Curious about this as well, and the fender and forks/fork boots (some call them gators) too.

Is that the fender you got from a friend's 650/1100 and/or how did you modify it? Stock forks, from the looks of it, but where did you get the boots?
 
My 2 cents...fwiw...the dupli-color paint is "supposed" to be used on autos, which "should" render it gas friendly when dry...I get the thought of using better paint, but it should be fine as it is...should. We really don't go soaking any cycle in gas when filling...a dribble here or there...but that's it. With a decent paint and a decent coat of wax it should be ok....
 
I like the black out rear shocks...but that rear brake caliper looks like a nightmare to bleed
 

The ignition is a stock cover. It had that 3/4" hole in the center (don't know whyou they did that) so I filled it with quick steel, the ground the cover smooth. It's actually convex just a tiny bit. If you remember that Craftsman 3D sander??....It sanded it nice and even and left a slight arc to it. I like it.
 

The gaiters are e bay bought. I just found a design I liked and went for it. Of course making sure theya would fit the fork diameter.
The fender is plastic. It is the one my friend gave me. And you are right, it's either from an 81 650g or and 82 1100g bit it fits good. It was already cut when I got it, I just sanded it up a bit before primer n paint.
 
80GS850GBob said:
My 2 cents...fwiw...the dupli-color paint is "supposed" to be used on autos, which "should" render it gas friendly when dry...
Click to expand...

No, it comes off quickly with the first little splash of gasoline, has no resistance at all. The 2K is a true two part urethane paint and it resists chemicals like gasoline very well.
 
A tip on gaiters, as u can see in the picture they are a bit collapsed on themselves. If they are a tight fit, the air can't escape so you need to cut a small v notch in one of the pleats to let air in and out. I just haven't done so yet.
 
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Right on, that's what I have always heard. I will most likely do as Ed said....a couple light tack coats with sufficient set time and lay on some medium coats.
 
80GS850GBob said:
I like the black out rear shocks...but that rear brake caliper looks like a nightmare to bleed
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I had visions of an underslung caliper, lol.....it's just mocked up....the jury is still out. I am ordering new brake likes soon so I will decide soon.
I plan on leaving some slack in the line so I can rotate the caliper to the rear and get the bleeders higher up. That's if I go with this setup. I want to mount the exhaust first and see how it all looks.
 
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loud et said:
I had visions of an underslung caliper, lol.....it's just mocked up....the jury is still out. I am ordering new brake likes soon so I will decide soon.
I plan on leaving some slack in the line so I can rotate the caliper to the rear and get the bleeders higher up. That's if I go with this setup. I want to mount the exhaust first and see how it all looks.
Click to expand...

Don't get me wrong...I like the look, hard part is keeping just enough line slack on it for when you do bleed it so the screws are up...not too much...then mount.
Exhaust- straight back or up swept?
 
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tkent02 said:
No, it comes off quickly with the first little splash of gasoline, has no resistance at all. The 2K is a true two part urethane paint and it resists chemicals like gasoline very well.
Click to expand...

Well, I have a spare DP painted side panel {slightly warped but now replaced with a straight one}...I'll have to try it and see what it does. Still have time till spring to get it right if it lifts...
 
loud et said:

The ignition is a stock cover. It had that 3/4" hole in the center (don't know whyou they did that) so I filled it with quick steel, the ground the cover smooth. It's actually convex just a tiny bit. If you remember that Craftsman 3D sander??....It sanded it nice and even and left a slight arc to it. I like it.
Click to expand...

- Thanks.......
Neat idea, and it looks great when painted
 
I didnt read the last 3 pages, but if yer talkin about the German made "Spraymax 2k" its incredible and definitely stands up to gas, isopropanol, acetone.....it costs a bunch....but one can did 4 coats on my tank and 3 coats on my fenders....the MAIN thing though, is NOT to be in a hurry.....spray on a coat and let it cure properly....if ya put a second coat over one that isnt dry, could cause bubbles....but the stuff is awesome.....

I got mine direct from Eastwood Chemical which is their main US distributor.....
 
Looks to me that you lucked out with the silver. Most times if you sand the metallic directly, it'll upset the way the metallic lays down, and you'll end up with a blotchy finish. Seems pretty good to me the way it is. I also agree with Ed. You have to have a catalyzed clear to protect the paint from gas. It'll destroy the Duplicolor with the first drop of gas otherwise. Same with the engine paint. Also don't forget to run a thin swipe of JB Weld over the paint line at the filler neck, or sure as sh-t, it'll start to peel back at that point from the fumes when you put gas in the tank.
 
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nvr2old said:
Looks to me that you lucked out with the silver. Most times if you sand the metallic directly, it'll upset the way the metallic lays down, and you'll end up with a blotchy finish. Seems pretty good to me the way it is. I also agree with Ed. You have to have a catalyzed clear to protect the paint from gas. It'll destroy the Duplicolor with the first drop of gas otherwise. Same with the engine paint. Also don't forget to run a thin swipe of JB Weld over the paint line at the filler neck, or sure as sh-t, it'll start to peel back at that point from the fumes when you put gas in the tank.
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Larry the swipe of JB weld sounds like a genius trick. during this paint job I wondered from time to time how the neck gets finished but never read up on it. I will certainly do that after I scuff this up and 2k it.
Thanks for all the input fellas....I didn't think duplicolor was very resistant. I tell ya what tho, you learn a lot during the course of your first paint job.
 
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