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question about coils

  • Thread starter Thread starter thezmann76
  • Start date Start date
T

thezmann76

Guest
My 82 GS1100Ez seems to only be running on 1 and 4 cyl, the pipes for 2 and 3 are warm but 1 and 4 are hot. I tried to switch the coils around but got the same results. I put things back as they were and got some backfiring through the intake then a nother through the exhaust which sounded like a gunshot. Does it matter which wire goes where on the coils? I have one orange and white wire to the positive side of each and the black and the white wires going to the negative sides if the coils. The Haynes manual does not specify. Thank you
 
Try removing the spark plugs from 2 and 3, lay the plugs against the block and see if you have any spark. What do the plugs look like? Are they fouled? Are they wet from gas? There is a procedure in the service manual for checking the primary and secondary resistance on the coils. You need a VOM to see if these are in spec. What voltage are you getting at the coils? If you switched coils and one of the coils was bad the problem should have moved to the other set of cylinders. 1-4 should not get hot and 2-3 should get hot.

The fact that 2 and 3 are not getting hot could be caused by several factors. When was the last time the valves were adjusted and the carbs were cleaned?

You need to do some diagnostic work before condemning the coils.
 
yep. could be valves or carbs. if the problem doesn't follow the coil, it can't be the coil.
 
I don't believe the valves have ever been adjusted, the bike only has 2,200 miles on it. I just rebuilt the carbs two weeks ago but I'll run through the coil troubleshooting and see what I come up with.
 
With only 2200 miles on the bike I doubt the valves would be an issue. Itis probably fuel related.

Did you take some carb cleaner and spray it around the intake and airbox boots to see if you had any leaks?

When you rebuilt the carbs did you replace any of the internal brass parts? Reason I ask is that I rebuilt the rack on my KZ550 using parts from K&L kits, althought the parts looked the same as what came out of the carb originally they were not. The fuel needle valve (little brass pointy piece) was not correct, this caused the bowl on the #2 carb to only partially fill with gas and I had a warm pipe on the #2 cylinder. When I swapped the old part back into the carb the cylinder got hot almost instantly.

Does the 2-3 cylinder stay warm throughout the powerband or is it warm at idle the get hot as the engine is revved. This could indicate a clogged choke circuit.

While you are checking coil resistance make sure to check the plug wires and resistor caps as well. A bad cap would keep the plug from fireing.

Had this bike been sitting for along time or was it just driven 85 miles a year for the last 26 years?

If you have checked the coils,plug wires,caps and other related wiring and all appear to be within spec, I would suspect the carbs.

How did you clean them? Did you totally disassemble, soak, replace o-rings..etc OR just spray them out with some carb cleaner.

Also did you have the carbs vacuum synced after the rebuild? The bike will usually run like crap until a sync is done.
 
If the pipes are getting the least bit warm You still have carb problems...
You are not alone, some people have had theirs apart 3-4 times to get them to work right !!!!
 
I appreciate all of the responses guys, I checked for spark on all 4 plugs. They lit up as they should. I did disassemble the carbs completely and soak them in the gallon pail of Berrymans for 30 min each. I'm going to tear them back apart and soak them overnight each. Would this explain the backfiring through the intake and exhaust? Thanks.
 
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