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Question about removing the forks on an E model

  • Thread starter Thread starter Road_Clam
  • Start date Start date
R

Road_Clam

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Well, the Clam bike has blown fork seals. So I have to yank the forks. Can someone advise me on how to remove those air chamber collars on the forks on the E models? Do you just slide them off the fork tube? Thanks!
 
They'll slide off as you pull the forks down. They have o-rings in them for sealing. The lower triple has castings in it to keep the collars positioned right.
 
I found that keeping the upper part of the fork leg (above the air collars) clean and oiled helps when pulling them off.
The o-rings can be quite a drag ;)
 
When I did the fork seals on my '80 1100E, I had to beat the fork tubes out. I tried PB blaster to give some lubrication, but it still took some beating. Word of advise, if you do need to beat them out, be careful of the fork caps. They aren't as sturdy as they appear. :oops:
 
Wow, I'm kind of honored to be able to answer a Clam question.8-[
Yes Rich, as you remove the forks froms the upper and lowers the air connector will come out.
 
Thanks guys for the input!

Doug even the even the Clam has many questions, oddly during the Clam bike resto I never really needed to separate the forks from the triple tree.
 
The seals I received from Bikebandit sucked. Poor quality and one leaked. The replacements from Z1 were much better.

If you can get the bike high enough in the air (jack required) you dont even have to remove the front wheel or disconnect the brake lines. Get the headlight off. Undo the brake line junction / wire harness clamp on the lower tripple tree. Undo the speedo cable. Take off the fork caps. Loosen up the up & lwr clamps and the whole works should slide down enough to get the old seals out and the new ones in. Getting the old ones out is a little tricky cause ya gotta pry em out. The new seals slide right in with some grease. Reassemble in reverse order and your ready to ride. \\:D/
 
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I know I probably don't need to tell you this, but flush the fork with some kerosene to get any crap out of them. Add a cup to each leg and pump the fork back and forth maybe a dozen times then drain. Repeat the process until the kerosene drains out clean.
 
Billy Ricks said:
I know I probably don't need to tell you this, but flush the fork with some kerosene to get any crap out of them. Add a cup to each leg and pump the fork back and forth maybe a dozen times then drain. Repeat the process until the kerosene drains out clean.
Click to expand...

My bad. Yes, listen to Billy if you have not changed the fork oil in a few years. I guess you should probably just go ahead and disassemble the whole front end. Lots more work. Get lots of shop towels, cleaners, brake fluid, that home made tool for the damper rod, fork oil, clean lighted area to work and some time. But if the forks are clean inside Id go the quick route. Drain and flush like Billy says then slip the forks out like I stated. Swap the seals. Reassemble and add fresh oil.
 
I know some riders are still big fans of the air forks, but I wasn't. About 10 years ago I sent my 82 1100EZ fork tubes off to these guys...

http://www.le-suspension.com/

..for a complete reworking-revalving. They are worth considering. Everything has been great since and I've never been happier with the anti-dive disconnected. Better road feel whether under braking or not. Just my thoughts.



Mushman
 
I forgot about the kero flush. I was told about that many years ago, and only did it once, on my old Yamaha XS650. When I finally changed the fork oil at thirty thousand miles, it was pretty dirty.

I should probably use fork boots on my bikes, it is so dirty around here on the roads. I clean the tubes sometimes twice a day, or more with mud and bugs.
 
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