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Question; Will the bike run with the timing 1 tooth off?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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Will it? I changed my head and base gaskets this weekend. The bike wont start now, and I actually think that the timing might be a tooth off. Should it still run? and just run crappy?

It was running fine before the head gasket blew...
 
Yes it will run, but crappy, it might not even start! what bike is it?
 
79' GS1000....It wont start now...It has spark, I figure its getting fuel since it was fine before I took it apart. The only think I can think of is the timing being 1 tooth off....


Any other ideas?
 
I also tried retarding and advancing the timing all the way on the ignition plate, but it didnt seem to make a difference....
 
well, after it didnt start last night, I didnt feel like working on it much more. I just went out there this morning, and it doesnt have any compression....Where'd it go? LoL...

I cant see why it wouldnt have any? It barely bumps the gauge any at all. I wonder if the valves are so worn that they arent closing completely? It was fine before I took it apart. Although I did pull the valves and clean everything thoroughly.


Any other ideas? I think I am going to pull one cam and turn it over by hand to see if I can get anything...
 
I cant see why it wouldnt have any? It barely bumps the gauge any at all. I wonder if the valves are so worn that they arent closing completely? It was fine before I took it apart. Although I did pull the valves and clean everything thoroughly.
Click to expand...

How is the valve lash adjustment? If you have some valves adjusted to zero lash it may not hold compression and certainly won't fire like that.

If you were one tooth out on the cam timing, it should still try to fire even if it won't run.


Mark
 
I think you may have got the shims in the wrong buckets!
If you didn't draw a diagram or make a note of where each shim went, you may have them in the wrong places.
Your going to have to take off tghe valve cover and recheck each shim and do the cam shafts again so that the timing is 100% accurate.
 
Well, I dont believe there is any valve adjustment to be made, as there are no rocker arms. The cam lobes ride directly on the buckets and shims. I would agree that its possible that I got them out of order, being that my friend knocked them off the table they were sitting on.

Whats the easiest way to find out which one goes where? Are they intake and exhaust specific?
 
I just pulled the cams again, and while I was at it, pulled all the shims...

I've got:

(1) 2.70
(2) 2.65
(4) 2.60
(1) 2.55

I dont have the little tappet depressor that the manual recommends to press the tappet down while the cams are installed. Is there something else I can use?
 
Whats the easiest way to find out which one goes where? Are they intake and exhaust specific?
Click to expand...

Not specific to either cam, but you must measure the lash clearance you have on each valve with a feeler gauge and record it, then pull the shim and see what thickness it is. Then you need to find the correct thickness shim to give the proper lash clearance and install it. It will be a bit of a PITA since you must juggle all of the shims at once to get everything back together properly.

And you need to check the cam timing again to make sure it is right, as well.


Mark
 
As agree'd with the above writing.
If you need a valve compression tool, I have the Suzuki one you can borrow but must send back when your finished with it.
OH! DONT USE A MAGNET to pull out the shim, use a pair of tweezers, a magnet may/will magnatise the shim and more than likely it will jump out of the bucket.
E-mail me your home address if you need to borrow the tool.
 
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