• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

r/r gone again why?

  • Thread starter Thread starter shepgs850
  • Start date Start date
S

shepgs850

Guest
hi all replaced the r/r on my gs850 trike as battery was not charging fixed the problem,have done 500 ish miles not a problem starts first time etc,have just got in from a 50 mile trip and the battery is as good as dead
have done the stator check and thats fine r/r has no responce,do you think i should just replace the r/r(may have been a dodgy one) and see what happens or is it something else causing the r/r to die cheers all
 
shepgs850 said:
hi all replaced the r/r on my gs850 trike as battery was not charging fixed the problem,have done 500 ish miles not a problem starts first time etc,have just got in from a 50 mile trip and the battery is as good as dead
have done the stator check and thats fine r/r has no responce,do you think i should just replace the r/r(may have been a dodgy one) and see what happens or is it something else causing the r/r to die cheers all
Click to expand...

9 times out of 9.5 times the r/r fails becasue the wiring loom needs looking at get yourself a multimeter and a schematic and a 12 pack good luck make sure you check everything there can be bad grounds or shorts it's not the r/r or the stator that creates the poor reputation that these GS bikes have regarding electrical its becasue of the crazy LSD pothead that they must have hired as thier electrical engineer
 
Shep,

A couple comments:

- Let me know what year / model of 850, and I can send you a scan of a color shchematic, if you dont have one. PM me your email addr. That is probably the best thing I have to offer. BUt I do a a couple other comments (but not a good complte answer for you).

- I dont know from personall experience, but have heard it said that a bad or poor ground on the R/R can cause the R/R to fail. Although others have said that a bad ground will just make it such that the R/R cant controll the voltage and voltage will be to too high, which isnt much of a problem other than burning out lights quickly and drying out the battery. (I tend to aggree with this statment.)

-R/R is mounted on battery box, and is grounded to battery box. And there is another ground wire from the wire harness (loom) that is grounding the battery box, but sometimes that is not enough. So you will hear recommendations to make your oun ground wire from the R/R ground (or frame itself) to the battery negitive. I say this is so the R/R can regulate at the proper voltage, and so if bad connection on the graound wire in the harness you dont burn/melt the ground wire inthe harness along with adjacent wires.

- I understand most common cause of R/R failure is the stator shorting to ground. But you say the stator checks are all good. MAybe it is an intermittent short that happens after the engine/stator warms up. Or short to ground between R/R and the Stator. OR between R/R and battery but that would likley blow fuse.

.
 
Last edited:
As stated above, the most common cause is a bad ground. Run a dedicated wire from where the regulator grounds to the battery box to the battery, or cut the connector off the regulator ground wire and extend the wire so it will reach the battery directly. Do not rely on crimp-on connectors, much better to use solder and shrink-wrap.

Oh, that bit about the 12-pack? Go ahead and get it, but leave it in the fridge as a reward until you get the bike running.
If you start indulging in the 12-pack before the bike is done, no telling what you might end up with. 8-[


.
 
R/R thread hijack...

R/R thread hijack...

Hate to hijack a thread but a quick question on the same line....cleaned everything yesterday, all connections and reinstalled. At 5000 RPM on a fully charged battery, I'm pushing 15.96 volts at the battery posts. High...but too high?
 
Dave8338 said:
Hate to hijack a thread but a quick question on the same line....cleaned everything yesterday, all connections and reinstalled. At 5000 RPM on a fully charged battery, I'm pushing 15.96 volts at the battery posts. High...but too high?
Click to expand...

Yeah it's over the 15 volt max, but I doubt you'll see any problems until it reaches 17V or more.
 
nabrams said:
Yeah it's over the 15 volt max, but I doubt you'll see any problems until it reaches 17V or more.
Click to expand...

Thanks bud...think I'll run it and keep an eye on the battery acid level. It shown 12.23 at an 1100RPM idle.
 
Dave8338 said:
Hate to hijack a thread but a quick question on the same line....cleaned everything yesterday, all connections and reinstalled. At 5000 RPM on a fully charged battery, I'm pushing 15.96 volts at the battery posts. High...but too high?
Click to expand...

Same here...........?????:-s
 
Alright Dan...guess I've got another date with the multi tester...Great link by the way, it is printed and sitting on my desk as we speak. (I HATE ELECTRICAL) 8-[
 
hi there thanks for the quick replies,will try the ideas tomorrow,got to go work now
ps already have a direct earth to the battery cheers all
 
relic-rider said:
No! Check your RR now. Maybe only one diode is bad, but that makes your RR toast. You will be boiling the battery.
] Is this something I ought to consider? My battery has been running dry about every three months since I moved to the desert. I have been assuming that it was because I was in the desert, though.
Click to expand...
 
burp reynolds said:
Check your RR now. Maybe only one diode is bad, but that makes your RR toast. You will be boiling the battery.
Is this something I ought to consider? My battery has been running dry about every three months since I moved to the desert. I have been assuming that it was because I was in the desert, though.
Click to expand...

I dont know if a bad diode or a dry climate is the culprit but for $40 you can solve your problems with a new RR from Duanage.

Put a meter on your battery. If its over 15vdc it could be a bad RR ground wire or the sense wire from the RR is connected to a wire on the bike with low voltage. Thats what was wrong with mine. I ended up doing a relay mod to supply battery voltage to the sense wire and a direct ground to the battery - post. Now Im charging at a solid 14.5
 
It's more than likely just the desert air. For the same $40 you can pick up an R/R that's only a year or two old from a CBR1000RR.
 
Dave8338 said:
Hate to hijack a thread but a quick question on the same line....cleaned everything yesterday, all connections and reinstalled. At 5000 RPM on a fully charged battery, I'm pushing 15.96 volts at the battery posts. High...but too high?
Click to expand...


Almost 16 volts is going to cook the battery in no time at all. The maximum sustained charging voltage should not exceed 14.8 on a fully charged battery and preferably something around 14.5v.

Earl
 
i just bought a 1982 cb450 r/r to try on my '79 850. I've had only 11.50 vdc output and maybe near 12 vdc at 4k rpms. I hope this r/r isn't too old.

I thought there was a list of r/r's around here that would work on the gs' but i haven't really found it yet.
 
Jethro said:
9 times out of 9.5 times the r/r fails becasue the wiring loom needs looking at get yourself a multimeter and a schematic and a 12 pack good luck make sure you check everything there can be bad grounds or shorts it's not the r/r or the stator that creates the poor reputation that these GS bikes have regarding electrical its becasue of the crazy LSD pothead that they must have hired as thier electrical engineer
Click to expand...

BTW, what if one wanted to rewire his GS from scratch? Has a sober person come up with a more sensible schematic? Has anybody discovered any ways to simplify their wiring? Has anybody found any cheap bolt-on parts from modern bikes that provide better current?
 
burp reynolds said:
BTW, what if one wanted to rewire his GS from scratch? Has a sober person come up with a more sensible schematic? Has anybody discovered any ways to simplify their wiring? Has anybody found any cheap bolt-on parts from modern bikes that provide better current?
Click to expand...
If you sat down with a schematic it would be a fairly easy task to eliminate some of the wiring and make a few things more direct. There are things on my bike I've disabled like the gear indicator, fuel gauge, and a few other things that I could eliminate the wiring for and end up with a more compact harness. I could use a little thicker gauge wire in the process and eliminate every bullet connector on the bike in favor of plugs or spade connectors.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top