R/R question

[bobnmarilynmaz]

what r/r unit from a honda will fit a 1982 GS650GLZ? Can I use any kind? or is there a particular model needed? Does displacement matter; i.e. can I take a rectifier from a 1100 cc Goldwing and use it on my 650?

I know that there is a tutorial posted in the stator paper section giving instructions on how to modify the r/r from a honda, but I really need someone who can say: get this particular r/r.

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

I found these on some guy's website.

Compatible Stators and R/Rs

Modifying a Honda R/R for GS Use

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[UncleBen]

If you can get one of the newer FET R/R's you might as well. They run cooler and very stable. I got one from an 06 Kawasaki ZX10 on ebay for about $35. Another benefit of the FET R/R's is that they are only five wire so hookup is a bit easier: just the three wires from the stator and then + and - out.

 

[bobnmarilynmaz]

ok, I looked at Cliffs charts, and do not find my r/r even listed, the number on the unit is 32800 34210. Is this rectifier the same as the others?

 

[bobnmarilynmaz]

even worse, when I look up the part on an OEM site, the part number is 32800-471V0

 

[BigD_83]

ok, I looked at Cliffs charts, and do not find my r/r even listed, the number on the unit is 32800 34210. Is this rectifier the same as the others?

By Google search 32800 34210 appears to be the OE unit for the 81-83 650s and 850.

The 471V0 seems to be the replacement number for the original

 

[bobnmarilynmaz]

Ben, do you own and did you change the r/r on a 650? I am trying to figure out which r/r will fit my 650, and I am assuming that since there is no compatibility listing on Cliff's charts, that there must be some difference in the 650 r/r unit, I am probably wrong, but I don't want to throw something on this bike that is going to cause electrical damage.

I appreciate that you guys answer questions and send charts etc... but I really need someone to be specific (I know you were, but what I need to know is if your bike is a 650, or if the r/r unit you suggested will work on a 650).

It gets somewhat frustrating when I look at a chart, and don't even find my bike listed on it; again and again (not that I am un-thankful or complaining about the help you guys are giving me, I'm not, it's just that most of the time, the 650's aren't even listed on most charts). Which is why I stop and think, well, there must be some difference in something in the 650 models.

Please feel free to assume that I am completely ignorant of what I'm doing (when it comes to choosing the proper part here, I am), and say something like: if you want to change the r/r on a 650, get this one and follow the tutorial on the garage page to modify it.

 

[Matchless]

ok, I looked at Cliffs charts, and do not find my r/r even listed, the number on the unit is 32800 34210. Is this rectifier the same as the others?

That number is the Suzuki OEM parts number. The numbers you are looking for are the R/R manufacturers number and is usually indicated close to the manufacturers name.
Suzuki favoured Kokosan Denki, Mitsubishi, Stanley, Nippon Denso and Hitachi at the time, while Honda and others preferred Shendengen which has proved to be more durable.

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

Here's one of the newer FET styles
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/06-0...&otn=3&po=LVI&ps=63&clkid=2156528557965484107

 

[tom203]

That number is the Suzuki OEM parts number. The numbers you are looking for are the R/R manufacturers number and is usually indicated close to the manufacturers name.
Suzuki favoured Kokosan Denki, Mitsubishi, Stanley, Nippon Denso and Hitachi at the time, while Honda and others preferred Shendengen which has proved to be more durable.

The chart does make it seem like you need a certain one, but lots of the shindengen units would work. I have a spare SH-532 and a spare SH-232- these are six wire units that would bolt right on a 81 650 and most likely an 82 and 83 ( of course you have to make new connections!). Ebay prices on these R/R are very variable.

 

[Guest]

Go to eBay and search regulator for a 1981 Honda CM200.
Purchase the R/R for cheap
Install the regulator.
Remember Green for Honda is ground.
Use this
http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/docs/Modifying Honda Regulator Rectifiers for use on a GS.pdf

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

With slight wiring modifications, these Shindengen units will work on your motorcycle:

Honda CBR1000RR 06-07 Shindengen SH678B 12V 35 Amp rating, 15.1 V
Honda CBR1000RR 08 Shindengen FH-008EB 12V FET 40 Amp rating (with wire tails and plugs)
Honda CBR1000RR 08 Shindengen FH-014AA 12V FET 50 Amp rating
Honda CBR1000RR 05? Shindengen SH775 12V Series 35 Amp rating, 14.0 - 15.0V
Honda GL1000 79 Shindengen SH232-12 9.0 12V
Honda GL1000, 1100,1200 80-87 Shindengen SH541C-12 12V xx Amp 14.4 V(about 1/8" wider & slight mod to fit GS)
Honda GL1100 Shindengen SH538-12 12V (8 Wire, double pos & neg, sense, holes 3mm further apart ream with a drill bit to fit GS)
Honda GL1100A 82 Shindengen SH538-12 12V (8 Wire, double pos & neg, sense, holes 3mm further apart ream with a drill bit to fit GS)
Honda Silverwing Shindengen SH538-12 12V (8 Wire, double pos & neg, sense, holes 3mm further apart ream with a drill bit to fit GS)
Honda Superdream Shindengen SH232-12 12V
Honda VF750/1000 Shindengen SH541-12 12V xx Amp 14.4 V(about 1/8" wider & slight mod to fit GS)
Honda VT250FG/MC17 Shindengen SH538-12 12V (8 Wire, double pos & neg, sense, holes 3mm further apart ream with a drill bit to fit GS)
Honda XLV600V 89-90 Shindengen SH538A-12 12V (8 Wire, double pos & neg, sense, holes 3mm further apart ream with a drill bit to fit GS)
Kawasaki Concours 1400GTR 08-09 Shindengen FH-012AB FET 50Amp rating 14.4V-15.0V
Kawasaki KZ750 Shindengen SH530-12K 12V 20 Amp rating (brown - voltage sense wire, connect to switched +12V)
Kawasaki Z750 Shindengen SH530-12 12V 20 Amp rating (brown - voltage sense wire, connect to switched +12V)
Kawasaki ZX10/14, R1, FJR 05-06 Shindengen FH-010AA 12V FET 50A rating 14.3V -15.1V
Kawasaki ZX10 2005 Shindengen FH-010BA 12V FET 50A rating 14.3V -15.1V (mounting holes 3 mm wider than GS, may need bracket)
Yamaha FJR13 2007 Shindengen FH-012 12V 50 Amps rating 14.5V
Yamaha FZS10 2007 Shindengen FH-012 12V 50 Amps rating 14.5V
Yamaha RX1 03 Shindengen FH-001 12V 35 Amps rating 14.1V - 14.9
Yamaha YZF-R1 02 Shindengen FH-001 12V 35 Amps 200V rating 14.1V - 14.9V
Yamaha YZF-R1 04-06 Shindengen FH-011AA 12V 50 Amps 100V rating 14.3V - 15.1V (has very tall fins, consider space requirements)
Yamaha YZF-R1 2007 Shindengen FH-012AA 12V 50 Amps 40V rating 14.2V - 14.8V
Yamaha Snowmobile 07/08 Shindengen FH-012AA 12V 50 Amps 40V rating 14.2V - 14.8V
Arctic Cat 650 H2 Shindengen SH541KD (bolts fit GS, large shape)


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[UncleBen]

Here's one of the newer FET styles
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/06-0...&otn=3&po=LVI&ps=63&clkid=2156528557965484107

That's the exact one I have. Voltages are very consistent and after a long ride today in 80 degree heat, I could put my hand on it and it was barely warm.

 

[spyug]

Speaking from personal experience, just about any R/R that has 3 wires from the stator and at least one ground and one power out wire will work. As Mr. Matchless or r/r guru mentions, the Shindengen series are favoured as being robust and very stable. So you should be looking at Honda units. You should want something from a 35amp + output system so just about any bike that was 350cc and up should fit the bill.

Some of the Shindengens have double ground, double power outs and a sense wire. Please note that the grounds are generally green and the powers red with white tracer or just red the sense wire is a thinner black wire. You can double up the power out and the grounds and the sense wire should go to a switch on power source (like the rear brake/running light) or directly to the positive post on the battery.

You will notice that the shindengens have bigger heatsinks than the stock NDs on our Zuks but they generally will fit stock locations with just a little bit of reeming on the mounting holes of the R/R so that is not an issue.

The FET type R/Rs are best but are less available than the standard type and a bit more expensive so maybe look at something standard.

I hope this helps a bit and you can find something for your bike.

good luck and let us know how you make out.

cheers,
Spyug

 

[UncleBen]

Is there a reason many folks recommend R/R units out of Honda's as opposed to ones from another make? If they are Shindengen of the proper model, it shouldn't matter what bike they came off of.

I think it's worth noting in the context of this discussion as well that if you have one of the later bikes without a switchable headlight, it might be a good idea to bypass the stator wiring in the OEM harness completely and wire directly from the three stator output wires to the R/R. This makes for less wire in the harness and gets rid of wiring that can fail or short later on. Kind of on the "keep it simple" mind set.

 

[koolaid_kid]

Is there a reason many folks recommend R/R units out of Honda's as opposed to ones from another make? If they are Shindengen of the proper model, it shouldn't matter what bike they came off of.

I think it's worth noting in the context of this discussion as well that if you have one of the later bikes without a switchable headlight, it might be a good idea to bypass the stator wiring in the OEM harness completely and wire directly from the three stator output wires to the R/R. This makes for less wire in the harness and gets rid of wiring that can fail or short later on. Kind of on the "keep it simple" mind set.

Most likely it is KISS. If there is a post that does not recommend connecting the stator directly to the R/R it is inaccurate.
I have tried 5 R/R units on my bike. The two that worked the best for my bike were the Honda units. YMMV.

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

If you compare the Honda reg and the Suzuki reg You will see a difference The Honda uses like a 14-16 ga wire the Suzuki uses 18 gauge much thinner. Suzuki had a recall on some of there bikes 2008-9 ? for faulty regulators. If you were unlucky your bike burnt to the ground

 

[bobnmarilynmaz]

Great, thanks for the info. I do have a question of those who have the FET model. The wiring seems to be connected to the unit with plug in type clips, did you get a unit with wiring? It looked like only one side had the wiring on the e-bay ads I looked at. How did you modify the other side?

 

[UncleBen]

Great, thanks for the info. I do have a question of those who have the FET model. The wiring seems to be connected to the unit with plug in type clips, did you get a unit with wiring? It looked like only one side had the wiring on the e-bay ads I looked at. How did you modify the other side?

Mine did not come with the plugs. There are just spade connectors in the two openings. You can order the plugs if you want, but regular spade connectors work well too.

Looking at the openings the three spades on the left go to the stator. On the right side, the left spade is + and the far right is -.

 

[bobnmarilynmaz]

Thanks Ben, and everyone else.

I was thinking about what you said concerning the bypass of the wiring in the harness, which is a good idea, I was kinda scratching my head wondering why in the world they did this in the first place. I guess Suzuki didn't adhere to the KISS methodology when it came to wiring. It seems as if it only created a greater potential for electrical failure.