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R/R Sense wire

  • Thread starter Thread starter 1_v8_merc
  • Start date Start date
1_v8_merc said:
I'm just going to get another R/R.
I just wanna sell this thing, get it out of my garage.

In addition to the Diode test, I tried the Ohms test.(same process)
According to Steve, I should be getting "OL" one-way, and Resistance when I flip the Leads around. However, that's not happening, I'm getting Resistance on all 12 tests, clear as day.
Weird or what?
Click to expand...

Why not just re install the R/R and do the Phase A tests . It is probably just poor connections.

If the R/R was getting hot but not blowing a fuse that means it is flowing stator current and probably a lot. The most likely condition is that you have bad connections.
 
Update:

Stator - Exactly 54V-AC, on all 3 tests.
Close to 60, It's only got a couple hundred miles on it.
 
1_v8_merc said:
Update:

Stator - Exactly 54V-AC, on all 3 tests.
Close to 60, It's only got a couple hundred miles on it.
Click to expand...

That original test is necessary but not sufficient. Now measure the voltages from each leg to ground at the same 5000 RPM. That is a better test for the stator.


As I suspected you are not going to find anything.
 
Yeah, I'm done testing, lol.
I'm just going to check my connections again.

Thanks for the info everybody.
 
Okay, installed a SH-538, problem gone!
Got it for $20. Bike has good power now.
 
hey guys just read through the RR papers for problem solving, because my crahrging system isnt working,,,at the bottom it says p[hase "B" test stator...but theres nothing there. can sumone send me the link if its already up on the forums?

i do own the manual, first time having to use a multimeter is on this electrical...so i may just be using it wrong, but the three yellow wires coming from stator...manual says is supposed to have 13-14 volts at 5000 rpm....im getting nothing on all wires, """Test was done with bike running, but 3 wires disconnected from the regulator's female pig tail plug. i put negative probe of meter on negative battery terminal, then touched positive lead off of 3 wires seperatly, got a reading of .1 on one wire, but thats it


i performed continuity check..all good that way, but that information could be meaningless in this problem....


The manual tells me to ""disconnect 3 lead wires coming from stator terminal"" does this mean draining oil and pulling my side case off, or is "terminal" up where it connects to the regulator?


Or should i leave everythign connected, and just stick the probe through the casing of the 3 yellow wires???

any thoughts??
 
Cashmoney89 said:
hey guys just read through the RR papers for problem solving, because my crahrging system isnt working,,,at the bottom it says p[hase "B" test stator...but theres nothing there. can sumone send me the link if its already up on the forums?

i do own the manual, first time having to use a multimeter is on this electrical...so i may just be using it wrong, but the three yellow wires coming from stator...manual says is supposed to have 13-14 volts at 5000 rpm....im getting nothing on all wires, """Test was done with bike running, but 3 wires disconnected from the regulator's female pig tail plug. i put negative probe of meter on negative battery terminal, then touched positive lead off of 3 wires seperatly, got a reading of .1 on one wire, but thats it


i performed continuity check..all good that way, but that information could be meaningless in this problem....


The manual tells me to ""disconnect 3 lead wires coming from stator terminal"" does this mean draining oil and pulling my side case off, or is "terminal" up where it connects to the regulator?


Or should i leave everythign connected, and just stick the probe through the casing of the 3 yellow wires???

any thoughts??
Click to expand...

These tests can only be done with the front forks fully compressed and the exhaust silencer removed; this prevents grounding problems which can interfere with the results.




http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/3977567/dummy-load-scanned-pdf-may-14-2012-8-24-pm-649k?da=y
Click to expand...
 
posplayr said:
These tests can only be done with the front forks fully compressed and the exhaust silencer removed; this prevents grounding problems which can interfere with the results.
Click to expand...



WHAAAAAAA?????? "This is me totally confused"

can u specify which tests your talking about?

Not to dis-agree, but personally Never in my life have i heard of needing to compress forks, or remove an exaust piece in order to test electrical?

I have 4to1 exaust, no wires going to it so im assuming theres nothing being measured, how would one compress the front forks? and if needed toc ompress like you say, how far do i kno to compress?




MAYBE a simpler question would be needed....new CDI/igniter installed, and new battery, but no charge going to battery... " please use simple terms where possible, im completly dumb when it comes to electrical, pretend like ur talkin to a lil kid haha" but what tests can i complete without having to tear apart components, pull wires, "Compress forks" exc...
 
posplayr is pulling your leg. What he meant to say is this:

When testing the voltage on the stator, you put your test leads on two of the stator legs at a time. Do not put one lead on ground, there is no "ground" between the stator and R/R.

You don't have to remove the engine cover to test the stator, just disconnect the wires between the R/R and the stator and test those.

You said you read the Stator Papers, but I recommend going back and reading the Primer again so that you're sure you understand how this system actually works: http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfacts.htm

It would help your mechanical abilities quite a lot to understand basic electrical concepts. Particularly the difference between voltage and current, AC vs DC, how to read a schematic, how to build simple circuits, and so on. Since you clearly have access to the Internet, there's absolutely no excuse for being "completely dumb when it comes to electrical." The information is out there, you just have to find it and put forth the effort to learn it!
 
Last edited:
eil said:
posplayr is pulling your leg. What he meant to say is this:

When testing the voltage on the stator, you put your test leads on two of the stator legs at a time. Do not put one lead on ground, there is no "ground" between the stator and R/R.

You don't have to remove the engine cover to test the stator, just disconnect the wires between the R/R and the stator.

You said you read the Stator Papers, but I recommend going back and reading the Primer again so that you're sure you understand how these two parts work: http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfacts.htm
Click to expand...

Since you spilled the beans, the second part of the test is to test leg to ground; that is the most important part. should be 0 VAC.;)
 
posplayr said:
Since you spilled the beans, the second part of the test is to test leg to ground; that is the most important part. should be 0 VAC.;)
Click to expand...

Even though i value and read every persons response, i still had to pretend like i didnt read that post about the silencer, i was thinkin this guys either got tooo much time on his hands, or is smart as F##K haha, guess first thought was right ;) appreciate the input none the less tho! im going to do some more testing now when i get home
 
Cashmoney89 said:
Even though i value and read every persons response, i still had to pretend like i didnt read that post about the silencer, i was thinkin this guys either got tooo much time on his hands, or is smart as F##K haha, guess first thought was right ;) appreciate the input none the less tho! im going to do some more testing now when i get home
Click to expand...

seeing if you are paying attention ;)
 
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