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R/R wiring correct?

  • Thread starter Thread starter kylemanley1
  • Start date Start date
K

kylemanley1

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I decided to figure out where the positive wire my R/R ties into the main circuit and this is what I found. Just behind the airbox the red wire is soldered. It takes off in one direction towards the headlamp with the rest of wiring, and another red wire is tied into that solder that connect to main fuse and then that wire is connected to my starter relay positive pole.
I wanted to add that there is a yellow/grn stripe wire coming from wiring harness that is soldered onto the top of starter relay. Does this all sound right. Sorry to ask but I don't understand wiring diagrams.
 
Yes, that red wire is the preferred place to connect your R/R output, but make sure the joint where it connects to the main harness is good. You can do that by checking the voltage drop from the R/R to the MAIN fuse when the bike is running.

The yellow/green wire is the other end of the wire from your starter button. From the starter button, the wire goes to the clutch "safety" switch (unless it has been bypassed), then to the solenoid.

Checking the rest of the R/R wiring, did you connect all three stator wires DIRECTLY to the R/R inputs? How about running a dedicated ground wire to the chassis or the battery, instead of the battery box?

.
 
If I am looking at the correct diagram, then the red wire from your regulator goes to the ignition switch at one side, and on the other side to the fuse, and from there on to the battery. On the diagram, that red wire continues from battery to the starter solenoid. So the difference is only in that, that on your bike, the red wire from the fuse is connected to the starter solenoid, and not straight to the battery. But as the starter solenoid and the battery are connected, it shouldn't make a difference.
The yelloy/green wire connected to the starter solenoid goes to the starter disconnect switch.
So seems OK to me. But I'm no expert either... I hope I studied the right diagram at least... :) Anyway, print the diagram out and start colouring the wires that are of interest to you, makes it a lot easier.

Edit: didn't see the previous post when I was typing.
 
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I'm getting 12.75 with key off and 11.85 with key on. Brand new battery, don't know why such a big drop
 
kylemanley1 said:
I'm getting 12.75 with key off and 11.85 with key on. Brand new battery, don't know why such a big drop
Click to expand...

A battery can be brand new, perfectly healthy but be discharged. If you buy a brand new bucket and it doesn't have any water in it do you think it is defective? Unlike buckets batteries probably have some charge in them when you receive them, but not necessarily. Buckets are normally empty but that doesn't mean they are defective. Same goes for batteries, if you fill it and it leaks (i.e. can't pass the test) it has something wrong, but the numbers do not suggest that, just down a little.
 
Although the 12.75 volts with key OFF would suggest a fully-charged battery, I really do like that "new bucket" analogy. :encouragement:

.
 
kylemanley1 said:
I'm getting 12.75 with key off and 11.85 with key on. Brand new battery, don't know why such a big drop
Click to expand...
looks ok to me. Start her up!

When you turn the key to ON a voltage drop is normal.... ignition and headlight/tailight are fairly big loads for a small motorcycle battery.

When you start the bike and run it, voltage will rise because the "charging system" is actually supplying bike's demands while recharging the battery...the battery really is just there to start the bike.
 
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I have to admit I don't know if the OP thinks that the voltage drops should be much lower (i.e.e no drop) or is surprised that it is below 12V by 0.15V). The Quick test describes the tests and what to expect, although temperature can come into play the numbers have been verified by several people to be a reasonable expectation.

Steve, the single voltage of 12.75V is only an indication that the battery might be good. You need to put a load on it and see how much it drops to determine what the SOC is. So to a large extent it is the voltage differential under normal load that properly indicates the state of the battery.
 
These are the results of my quick test with a fully charged battery.
Key off- 12.92
Key on- 11.90
Idle- 12.15
2500rpm- 13.6
5000 rpm- 14.18
Key off 13.37
Long story short I replaced the stator and R/r with caltric about a year ago, things went smoothly for a bit then I wasn't charging. Got a new battery, new electrosport stator, new polaris sh775ba and triumph link lead. I was going to install them all at once but having a hard time figuring out where to mount that polaris r/r so I decided just to install the new stator for now and see what readings I got. I am unsure if it was stator or r/r or both that were not working to begin with
 
kylemanley1 said:
These are the results of my quick test with a fully charged battery.
Key off- 12.92
Key on- 11.90
Idle- 12.15
2500rpm- 13.6
5000 rpm- 14.18
Key off 13.37
Long story short I replaced the stator and R/r with caltric about a year ago, things went smoothly for a bit then I wasn't charging. Got a new battery, new electrosport stator, new polaris sh775ba and triumph link lead. I was going to install them all at once but having a hard time figuring out where to mount that polaris r/r so I decided just to install the new stator for now and see what readings I got. I am unsure if it was stator or r/r or both that were not working to begin with
Click to expand...

At 5K you are charging well. At idle not so much. Not sure if you have any extra loads or just a very low idle. Usually by 1200-1300 RPM you are at 13V.

What your stator burned before? If so don't run with that old R/R too long it will smoke the new stator as well.

I would also do the Revised Phase A tests to measure voltage drops to see if there is any indication there of issues. You do have an abnormally low idle voltage and should be explained before buttoning everything up for the season.


P.S are you using a trickle charger to "charge" the battery?
 
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Yes I use a trickle charger. Just did revised phase a test
2500 rpm- goes from 12.94 to 13.08
5000 rpm- starts at 13.5 but slowly climbs to 14.18
( not sure if I should report instant read at the rpm because it climbs)
Measuring positive lead drop I get -10.77v....that can't be good
 
kylemanley1 said:
Negative voltage lead -10.2
Click to expand...

It can't be that high. The bike would not run. Try and redo teh measurements. You can't have a 10 volt drop across a short piece of wire(for a variety of reasons).

Your battery is slightly discharged because a trickle charger only puts out about 13V so it is not going to charge very fast at all. It is to sustain a charge not increase the charge.
 
Ok before I made the mistake of taking measurements with leads disconnected.
With negative and possitime rr/ leads all connected I'm getting these readings
For negative lead voltage drop with red multimeter lead connected too batt negative pole and black lead on negative output of R/r I see 84v
For positive lead drop I connected black multimeter lead to batt positive and red multimeter lead to r/r red output wire. Got .34 Took both revved to 5k.
 
0.84V and 0.34V?

i guess you did not do a SPG. You could probably also clean out the fuse box
 
My bike has only a single main fuse. I have r/r negative wired directly to batt negative post
 
kylemanley1 said:
The reading is 84 not .84. Don't know why
Click to expand...

Use the same setting to measure the battery; it is supposed to be about 2V then move to the voltage drops with the same setting.

84.0V is highly improbable as nothing on your bike can provide that.
 
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