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Rattle can job...

  • Thread starter Thread starter speedzter2000
  • Start date Start date
speedzter2000 said:
...it's still pitted, and has a crinkle in it, but I dont care...I used 80 grit, then 360...could of of used some filler, but..didnt want to bother....
Click to expand...
8-) Aint no one gonna notice any of that at the speeds you'll be travellin' ;)

On the gas/paint thing just be extra careful around the filler neck where it is not painted as that will be the easiest point for the fuel to get under the paint and cause problems. Keep a rag nearby at fill ups and wipe off any other drips etc asap and you'll be good at least for the season :-P
 
just get a cover with a whole in the middle to cover the tank when you pour.. layer of rag, layer of plastic, layer of rag.. hole in middle.. no more paint issues.. works for me
 
BentRod said:
just get a cover with a whole in the middle to cover the tank when you pour.. layer of rag, layer of plastic, layer of rag.. hole in middle.. no more paint issues.. works for me
Click to expand...


That's what I was kinda thinking....Thanks!:-D

Scott...I dont go THAT fast...it's only a 550!!:-D
 
I don't know about your 550 but I had mine doing 220kph according to my gps. It was on a track of course :-D
 
Rattle Can Paint

Rattle Can Paint

nice Job, Check Your Local Autoparts Supply Ask If They Sell Premixed Clear Coat And Paint And Make Thier Own Spray Cans Seal With The Thinner Hardener Paint Mixed To Portion. I Can Get It In Maine, So The Rest Of The Country Has It. Good Luck.:)
 
Hi nice job on the spraying, as for your paint and petrol/gas worries all you need is to spray it with petrol resistant lacquer that is for motorcycle tanks ans will cover all acrylic paints,not sure if you have it where you are but heres a pic of it.

18.jpg
 
Gasoline-proof rattle can paint?

Gasoline-proof rattle can paint?

Did you read the Motorcycle Repaint Project posted by Frank Perrault in 24-Jan-2004? Are the paints he listed (6 oz. cans of Plasti-Kote Automotive Acrylic Lacquer) going to get eaten by gasoline?

Thanks
 
I did my GT550 with Wal-Mart Dupont auto paint and it looked good. But everyone is right. The durability SUCKS. ANY gas eats the clear coat and the you have to buff/sand and touch up. When I paint my GS850 next week I am going to hit up Robbins auto parts. I have a compressor and can grab a paint gun so I want to use pro paint and some sort of gas resistant topper. I am still trying to figure out what we do differently than the original paint which doesnt go bonkers over gas... Perhaps I should bake it in the oven... But I am sure it will have gas residue in the tank lol...
 
Retro, where do you get that clearcoat?? I would use it, if I could find it.

Phaedrus, I used Duplicolor. I know how to paint, I browsed Franks page, and did my own thing. I didnt go too crazy. I removed ALL the paint from the tank, sandblasted/sanded the headlight and fender, and sanded the sidecovers. If the paint lasts a year, I'll be happy.

Mortation...how about leaving it in the sun? I also put my sidecovers, etc...left them in the hatchback of my car and baked them that way. I'd rather blow up my car then my house... ;)
 
mortation said:
I did my GT550 with Wal-Mart Dupont auto paint and it looked good. But everyone is right. The durability SUCKS. ANY gas eats the clear coat and the you have to buff/sand and touch up. When I paint my GS850 next week I am going to hit up Robbins auto parts. I have a compressor and can grab a paint gun so I want to use pro paint and some sort of gas resistant topper. I am still trying to figure out what we do differently than the original paint which doesnt go bonkers over gas... Perhaps I should bake it in the oven... But I am sure it will have gas residue in the tank lol...
Click to expand...

Just out of curiosity, when did Wal-Mart start selling DuPont paint?
 
I rattle canned my '75 honda using VHT paint, candy blue. It looked as close to "real" spray as it could get & it held up to gas spills.
 
I found some Rustoleum brand lacquer clearcoat at WalMart. Hopefully it has the same petrol-resistant properties as the lacquer mentioned here earlier?

Also I see several brands have a rattle-can "epoxy" product for appliances and such. Haven't seen it in clear though. Do you suppose that really has the gas-resistant properties of epoxy or is it just a buzzword?
 
speedzter2000 said:
Retro, where do you get that clearcoat?? I would use it, if I could find it.

Hi i got it from halfords in the uk it is designed for use on motorcycle tanks over top of acyrilic paints , they also do it for other paint types to, after applying 4 coats allowing 15mins between coats then allow 48hours before petrol/gas is in the tank then allow 2 weeks before useung any cutting compound. If you cant get it where you are try uk ebay someone might have it on there, i paid just over ?5 for a 300m can.:)
Click to expand...
 
RETRO said:
speedzter2000 said:
Retro, where do you get that clearcoat?? I would use it, if I could find it.

Hi i got it from halfords in the uk it is designed for use on motorcycle tanks over top of acyrilic paints , they also do it for other paint types to, after applying 4 coats allowing 15mins between coats then allow 48hours before petrol/gas is in the tank then allow 2 weeks before useung any cutting compound. If you cant get it where you are try uk ebay someone might have it on there, i paid just over ?5 for a 300m can.:)
Click to expand...

Thanks Retro...the problem is that aerosols cant go on a plane...(I believe..I COULD be wrong)

I'll take my chances...my friend Vic says if I mix paints, etc, it could screw up the adhesive (?) properties and peel, or do worse...
I plan on putting everything together Wednesday...
I'll take pics :)
Click to expand...
 
speedzter2000, I know you want to take your chances, but do you have access to an air compressor?
 
Case Guards!!!

Case Guards!!!

I was lookin at your pics online and could help but notice that you don't have case guards. they aren't much as far as price goes (you can pick them up fairly cheaply at JCWhitney.com), they are easy to install (bolt on) and worth it.... i dumped my GS550E ('80) 7 years ago on the highway at 80mph after hitting a puddle of oil (in the middle of the night)at the beginning of an off ramp.

If it wasn't for the case guards, both sides of the engine would be TOAST.... the bike slid on one side ...highsided ...landed on top of me and then slid for about 20 feet on the other side......some good grind off on the case guards but they are still tickin :) and i'm still riding that bike today(after min. cosmetic work)
 
I'll take my chances...my friend Vic says if I mix paints, etc, it could screw up the adhesive (?) properties and peel, or do worse...
I plan on putting everything together Wednesday...
I'll take pics :)[/quote]


Your friend Vic is correct. I beleive that I metioned the same thing in an earlier post. He is talking about the adhesion properties of the paint. The different types of paints have different Adhesion properties that make it stick to the material your are painting.That is why I said to try the other clear on your test panel first to make sure it would not react with the spray can paint.
 
[/quote]
Your friend Vic is correct. I beleive that I metioned the same thing in an earlier post. He is talking about the adhesion properties of the paint. The different types of paints have different Adhesion properties that make it stick to the material your are painting.That is why I said to try the other clear on your test panel first to make sure it would not react with the spray can paint. [/quote]

Is this true for paint on fibreglass too?

I just got a cafe fairing and have been amping myself up for the transformation from black to silver, so any and all advice is welcome. I'm also wondering about pinstriping tips and tricks if y'all have any.
 
Is this true for paint on fibreglass too?

I just got a cafe fairing and have been amping myself up for the transformation from black to silver, so any and all advice is welcome. I'm also wondering about pinstriping tips and tricks if y'all have any.[/quote]


What type of paint are you planning on using? The following process is how I do it using a urethane basecoat/clearcoat system. If there is paint on the fairing already I would sand it with 400 grit sand paper then prime the fairing. Then you would sand the primer being carefull not to sand through the primer into the old paint. Then you can spray on your basecoat and then apply your clearcoat. I have painted a lot of corvettes using this method and have not had any problems. This is a couple of pics of a corvette that I painted in 2000 that won an award at the Detroit Autorama. I sanded the car down then primed it blocked it then reprimed and blocked it again. I sealed it with a sealer then put the red basecoat on, then put the harlequin stripes on it, then clearcoated the whole car.If you have any further questions feel free to send me a message.

Vette.jpg


Vetteatshow.jpg
 
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