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Re-installing carbs on 1983 GS 650 L

  • Thread starter Thread starter Chester Gunn
  • Start date Start date
C

Chester Gunn

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I hate to be redundant, but I've read several of the threads regarding carb installation, and I've noticed differences in dealing with various models....so I"m going to ask the experts. I'm installing carbs on my 1983 GS 650 L, and believe it or not, I've run into a bit of a problem. I went ahead and connected the carbs to the head, only to find that I was unable to slide the airbox into the small space that was left. I"m going to assume that the airbox has to go in first, then the carbs go in next... Is this correct. If so, should I then connect the carbs to the airbox first before securing the carbs to the head. Even that seems like a physical impossibility, but it must work better than trying to slide the airbox in afterwards..

Any and all suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated..

Best regards,
Chester Gunn/Chula, GA
 
I have not done a 650 airbox (my son's 650 has pods), but I have done a few 550s, 850s and 1100s. Airbox in place first, slide it back as far as possible. Might have to loosen battery box to get a little more room. Slide carbs in, install them in the intake boots on the engine, clamp them in place. Slide the airbox boots onto the carbs, clamp them in place. Re-tighten battery box if it was loosened.

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Airbox with plenums that attach to carbs goes in first. Then carbs. I like to attach carbs to heads via rubber boots as you put it and then slide plenums up to carbs and tighten. Finally, tighten the hose clamp that secures air plenums to airbox.
I find it too difficult to get carbs to go into rubber boots on head when attached on airbox. I find that by pushing up and down in the rubber boots gets them together. I also favor using silicone spray on boots aids in installation on both sides. Have fun...
 
+1 on Steve's comments, he types faster than I. Battery box won't help, sliding airbox back will. For Steve's info, the 650 shaft models aren't quite as bad as 550, imagine 650e is bad like 550. Nowhere near as nice as 1000g except for demonic airbox side covers. That truly is fun to seal them properly.:rolleyes:
 
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My airbox boots still aren't connected right. I tried connecting the airbox boots first... didn't help. They're connected as of now and the bike runs, but they aren't seated as well as they should be. I'm going to give it one more go. A friend suggested taking out the air filter and pushing forward from inside the box while tightening the hose clamps.

... now if I can only find that third arm somewhere... these 550s seem to necessitate one :) -nick
 
Clumzi said:
My airbox boots still aren't connected right. I tried connecting the airbox boots first... didn't help. They're connected as of now and the bike runs, but they aren't seated as well as they should be. I'm going to give it one more go. A friend suggested taking out the air filter and pushing forward from inside the box while tightening the hose clamps.

... now if I can only find that third arm somewhere... these 550s seem to necessitate one :) -nick
Click to expand...

Don't forget that you need to rotate the airbox boots in the plactic air filter box so they line up with each carb. It's a good idea to line these up with the carbs for a good fit while they are off the bike and mark them for future reference. Also much easier if the boots are young and pliable rather than old and stiff (much like myself). The inner and outer boots are different parts numbers and therefore different shapes.
Hope this helps.
 
On the 750L, the intake boots are marked right and left. The made in japan writing must also be oriented correctly. The service manual explains this. If you have the boots switched around they are not going to fit on the carbs right. A little wd40 on the boots helps assembly. It takes some fiddling to get the carbs on. This is usually accompanied by alot of swearing. I also find it helpful to install the throttle cable with the carbs detached because mine is a bear to get to once the carbs are installed.
 
almarconi said:
I also find it helpful to install the throttle cable with the carbs detached because mine is a bear to get to once the carbs are installed.
Click to expand...

I'll second that, I had to pull the carbs back out of the intake boots to get the cable because of access problems on a 550.
 
I very sincere thank you to all that responded..With your suggestions, I was able to get the carbs back on the bike and everything put back in place...and it was not easy..but it's done.. Now, it's time to synch the carbs. Maybe this part will be a little less stressful..
Best regards,
Chester Gunn/Chula, GA
 
Chester Gunn said:
I very sincere thank you to all that responded..With your suggestions, I was able to get the carbs back on the bike and everything put back in place...and it was not easy..but it's done.. Now, it's time to synch the carbs. Maybe this part will be a little less stressful..
Best regards,
Chester Gunn/Chula, GA
Click to expand...

Sure, synching is a walk in the park^o.

Worst part of synch is trying to adjust the linkage between #2 and #3 carbs. I found that by using a 1/4" drive socket on a long extension with a swivel was the only way to get onto the locking nut. Even with this, the choke cable linkage, speedometer cable interference is still high. You will see when you try to get to it. I have found that it is difficult to hold the screw in the precise position while tightening lock nut. To aid in getting setting right, I will loosen screw slightly before locking nut so that the tightening of the nut will move screw into correct position. If you are age challenged like myself, I find it best to write these screw positions down on paper. Take your time, and have a fan or two running to cool motor while synching.
 
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