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Re-jet for K&N RC-2382 intake filters 81 GS650E

  • Thread starter Thread starter NateTheNewb
  • Start date Start date
N

NateTheNewb

Guest
So...has anyone used these filters on this bike with success as far as jet tuning goes? K&N has some suggestions on there website, would following those be my best bet? I'd like to get some opinions from someone who's done it.

Also, they talk a lot of compression consistency between cylinders, as well as valve clearance and ignition timing. Are these things, if not in perfect order, going to effect using filters at all?

I'm really out there for any advice I can get on the matter...I am in fact...a newb.

Thanks for any info!

Nate
 
welcome to the site. people are going to ask why the pods and not the airbox, especially since you are a "newb".....most people will advise that the airbox is tyour best bet for ease of tuning and reliablility. and yes, all those things will affect tuning.
 
Thanks for the input and the welcome! To the airbox question, it's a lot of extra stuff going on. I kind of want the bike to have a stripped down look and that thing is super bulky. Forgive me for my vanity :o

Dyno jets are what I've been checking out. Did I read the PDF correctly? Is there some drilling that goes down? And also, the parts list seems to include several options...does that mean with pipes down the road I'll be able to further tune to accommodate those?

Right now I'm amidst a FULL rebuild of my carbs, bath and all, as followed by a tutorial I found on here. It's been a lot of fun! Is there any site that y'all think best when it comes to buying replacement carb components, i.e. gaskets, rings, floats, needles and such?

With compression playing into carb tuning, I've got these readings...

DRY 135 165 145 175

WET 185 220 180 220

....since then I've put some Mystery Marvel Oil, or whatever it's called, hoping to maybe balance that out. The bike sat for over a year, so I imagine that first cylinder was the one open most of the time and exposed to the elements. Should readouts like this play a major role in my tuning? The wet test seems a little more favorable as far as staying within K&N's suggested 15-20% difference range. Should I just go ahead and adjust valve clearance while I'm in there?

Thanks again,

Nate
 
Last edited:
Yes, check/adjust the valves. The valve clearance needs to be correct for the compression numbers to have any validity. A tight valve will bleed off compression.
 
these smaller motors 550/650 are very very sensitive to air change, if you go pods aka individual filters or no air box a rejet will be required. Pods would be a stage 3 jet kit, go to the dyno jet website find the kit for you bike and it should also recommend the k and n filters to use. This is the easiest route.

a 4 into 1 exhaust pipe would complete the package but isn't required, you may have to dial back the jetting a little from the dynojet recommendations if you keep the stock pipe.

I have these style of filters on a 550 and they work well but are a pain in the ass to get on since the frame on the 550 is very tight. This was the style recommended by dynojet. the trick to get them on is do the inside carb first with the out side filter port down, once inside filter port is over carb then rotate outside port up, some crushing of filter may occur it's ok.

don't worry about compression, get the carbs cleaned and tuned, valves adjusted and run the thing for a month then check compression, don't forget to check compression at *wide open throttle with all the spark plugs disconnected. You want the engine to suck in the maximum air. Alternatively you can do it with the carbs removed*

you can't adjust ignition on that bike. Like said above get the air/fuel mix right aka jetting matched to the filters and you will be ok.
 
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Great, thanks for all the input! WOT? Not sure I know what to make out of that...

Is a tappet depressor really a specialty item or is there some trick of the trade to know with all that?
 
I have to ask. Have you ridden or started this bike yet? I would just make sure that you have a running bike before you start messing with jetting. And I would spend a day reading your Mega Welcome which I think includes a chapter on the zip tie method of holding a valve open so you can change a shim... Also if you are new to this version of valve lash adjustment, DO NOT ROTATE ENGINE WITHOUT ALL SHIMS IN PLACE. There is a spreadsheat that you will come across when you start to read about the valve adjustment. I very smart and friendly guy will send it to you if you ask... Have fun...
Curt
 
Curt, and others, thanks so much for all the advice, and that link for the tappet tool! Yea, the bike does run, not well though. I limped it to a mechanic friend's house for the compression testing and some other diagnosis. It was all over the map as far as how it decided to run, and in tearing into the carbs, it starts to make sense.

Thanks for making me aware of the welcome packet...I'll find it and look it over...

If I begin adjusting valves, should I start a new thread on a different subject or should I just post here?

Nate
 
I would use the search button if you have questions that are general in nature... There is a ton of threads already about valve adjustments... The search button is in the headings just above... I have screw adjusters now due to the style of my engine, but I have had my share of shim in bucket on old Kawasaki's... The group will help you when you need it...
Curt
 
first timer said:
I have these style of filters on a 550 and they work well but are a pain in the ass to get on since the frame on the 550 is very tight. This was the style recommended by dynojet. the trick to get them on is do the inside carb first with the out side filter port down, once inside filter port is over carb then rotate outside port up, some crushing of filter may occur it's ok.
Click to expand...

You're right...the filters ARE a huge pain in the ass, worth some foul language here and there...:twistedevil: but I got um. As far as filter oil goes...do I need it, if so, how much?

For the record, with no valve adjustment, I threw the carbs back on and it fired right up. Feeling pretty accomplished...:) Honestly, it sounds and responds real good. What should I listen for if I need to fine tune? All I can really get it to do is hiccup rolling slow on it through 1800rpm, and that's not even consistent. I'll of course get a vacuum sync going but it seems to be doing real good.

Thanks again,

Nate
 
NateTheNewb said:
You're right...the filters ARE a huge pain in the ass, worth some foul language here and there...:twistedevil: but I got um. As far as filter oil goes...do I need it, if so, how much?

For the record, with no valve adjustment, I threw the carbs back on and it fired right up. Feeling pretty accomplished...:) Honestly, it sounds and responds real good. What should I listen for if I need to fine tune? All I can really get it to do is hiccup rolling slow on it through 1800rpm, and that's not even consistent. I'll of course get a vacuum sync going but it seems to be doing real good.

Thanks again,

Nate
Click to expand...

they come pre oiled. aka the pink color.

i clean the filters almost every time i change the oil. you can get K&N filter kit (cleaner and oil) from any parts store for about 20 bucks. Read the instructions.

Did you rejet your carbs with a dyno jet kit when you did the filters? If not the bike will run but you will be running super lean. It will most likely pop a lot on decel and might feel like the bike is hitting a wall when getting into higher rpms at full throttel.

A dynojet kit is a must in my opinion and use the smaller of the 2 main jets
at first and do some plug reads.
 
Nice! I'm glad they're pre oiled, because I don't really wanna pull those things out again! Yea, I did use a dyno kit with the smaller of the two, 155's I think. I've ran it a little, I'll give the plugs a read next time I work on it.
 
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