Re-keying ignition switch and/or seat latch?

[Hinermad]

When I bought this '78 GS750E last year I thought it was odd that it had separate keys for the ignition and seat latch. But it was pretty obvious it had been dropped on its right side, and I figure it probably broke the seat latch in the process and a previous owner just bought a new latch with key.

Anyway, now I'd like to either re-key the seat latch to use the ignition key, or replace both the ignition switch and seat latch with a matched set that uses one key. Any suggestions on how to do either one?

Worst case, I'll see if I can find a kit to replace the disc tumblers in one or both lock cylinders, but I'd rather just replace an assembly than tear into a lock. (I always end up losing a spring when I do that.)

 

[Kiwi Canuck]

You can quite easily rekey the seat lock to the ignition key as the seat lock comes apart much easier.

I did a write up a while ago but my photos will be no longer linked as I have them on Photo Bucket which is now unlinked all my photos.

It's actually pretty easy.

Post a picture of the back of the lock and I can give you the info to tackle it yourself.

David.

 

[Hinermad]

Post a picture of the back of the lock and I can give you the info to tackle it yourself.

Thanks for the offer! It'll be a little while though, I have some more pressing issues to fix first.

 

[hillsy]

I would think it more likely the ignition switch was replaced rather than the seat lock, but that is of no consequence to your dilemma.

I did a photo thread write up on re-keying as well but PhotoBucket has screwed that pooch too.

Usually the seat / helmet locks have less wafers than the ignition so you are on the right track changing that one to match your ignition switch.

 

[GSXR7ED]

Interesting thread since I bought a new Ignition Switch and the tank cap will need the original key (which I have). I don't use the helmet holder thing on my bike...as a matter of fact, I removed it. So, I'll use two keys...one for the ignition and one for the tank.


Ed

 

[hillsy]

Interesting thread since I bought a new Ignition Switch and the tank cap will need the original key (which I have). I don't use the helmet holder thing on my bike...as a matter of fact, I removed it. So, I'll use two keys...one for the ignition and one for the tank.


Ed

Tank caps are pretty easy to disassemble and re-key - might be worth you doing seeing as you will have a nice new key for your ignition.

 

[GSXR7ED]

Tank caps are pretty easy to disassemble and re-key - might be worth you doing seeing as you will have a nice new key for your ignition.

Wow!

Really!!!

I'm game. Better get off my butt and do the R2 (Remove & Replace)


Ed

 

[Hinermad]

You can quite easily rekey the seat lock to the ignition key as the seat lock comes apart much easier.

I did a write up a while ago but my photos will be no longer linked as I have them on Photo Bucket which is now unlinked all my photos.

It's actually pretty easy.

I found your writeup on how to disassemble the seat lock, and it was pretty straightforward even with the photos blocked. (Although Google Images still has them cached, so I was able to see what was happening by doing an image search.) I have the cylinder out now. It looks like there are two wafers I can swap to work with the ignition key, but there are two more that are too high and there are no others I can swap them with.

Can I buy a replacement wafer kit to change out the remaining ones? I see quite a few kits advertised online but they seem to be meant for car locks, and I'm not sure they're the right size for this lock.

I suppose I could just leave out the two offending wafers and rely on the remaining three to secure the lock. There's not much under the seat worth stealing, and I don't leave my helmet on the bike when it's parked. Not after seeing what happened to this one:

 

[Kiwi Canuck]

That was resourceful to find that post and see the pictures.

You can file the inside of the wafer if it's too low, but if it sits too high, the only option is file to top of the wafer as much as I dislike this, but after all it's only the seat lock.

There are dozens of different sized lock wafers kits on the market and I have not verified if any would work for the GS locks.

Best option as I did buy some old locks on ebay or here on GSR and strip down keep the wafers for spares.

David.

 

[Hinermad]

Thanks! I've filed the wafers on cheap desk and file cabinet locks and screwed up enough to not want to try it on something I want to keep. I'll hunt around for some orphaned locks and see if I can salvage some wafers.

Hmmm. I wonder if file cabinet wafers will fit. I've got a couple cabinets around here I don't lock. If they work I'll let you know!

 

[hillsy]

IMO a seat lock doesn't really need to be a high security lock like the ignition, so I would just take out the wafers that don't work and re-assemble the lock.

EDIT - you will probably find your filing cabinet lock wafers will work. From what I have seen over the years there are only a few different types of wafers - the difference being the shape of the tab where the wafer engages the spring.